Valentino F/W 10.11 Paris

[simons]

what is it with all the ruffles?! on some of the looks it works, actually really nicely, but for most of it it's overkill.

 

[Merveille]

I still don't get all the people bitching about how un-Valentino they are because so much of this seems dead on Valentino just less fussy and frou-frou.

It kind of suggests that people either hate them just for the sake of hating them

Or people hate on them because everyone else is.

 

[rouge_red]

Don't get the hate either But then again, fashion is subjective, and that's alright, but to be honest, I do like this more than some of Valentino's own late collections He just repeated himself, I like to see a house to have different facettes. And ruffles do have quite a few of those

 

[LolaSvelt]

This looked good until I saw the ruffles. While it is pretty, it is soooo boring. We've seen the Lanvin ruffles too many times!

 

[Exclusive]

At like the white little dresses at the start with one or two ruffles

 

[ALAUU]

I like it. It's not as classic as Valentino was, but at least they aren't trying to Balmain anymore.

 

[Spiral1532]

Wow.....from just a first glance, I actually REALLY LIKE this collection. It gets an automatic thumbs-up from me. I'll have to give this collection a few more glances before delivering a final verdict, but I am certainly impressed!

 

[FashionPower]

I think this is the first collection that really resembles Valentino's style and aestethic,there's everything Valentino used to do and love:ruffles,red,little frou frou style,delicate embroideries
This will turn into a bestseller collection if you ask me
...about Chiuri and Piccioli,you can't deny celebrities and the whole star system LOVE them!A lot of couture pieces shown just last January has already been worn,just remember that only 3 people wore dresses from Alessandra's couture collection,and 2 of them were worn by Alessandra herself!

 

[j´adore dior]

I don´t really understand how can they go from pretty to pretty bad and then pretty again, this seems gorgeous compared to their latest couture, and that first fur piece posted here is just wow, one of the most interesting fur pieces shown on this entire fashion week.

 

[irulan]

You constantly hear people going on about what these designers shouldn't be doing because it's not Valentino enough, but never actually suggesting what they should be doing. It kind of suggests that people either hate them just for the sake of hating them, or don't know any better than Chiuri and Piccioli what it is that Valentino should be doing.

I have a lengthy list of what they should be doing. Here it comes:

1. Step it up in the daywear. Sure, Valentino was famous for his gowns, yet there were some great daywear focused collections, e.g. FW 07. All I ever see them doing is a low-cut, straight pair of trousers with a wide shirt.
2. More Frills and Frou Frou. Yeah, sorry. Valentino just spells frills. I go somewhere else for simplicity. Embroidery is lacking as well.
3. Better colour. There's too much black there. Use more pastels, more white and for once dare to use more than two colours in outfits. Also, prints never hurt at Valentino.
4. Stop the new aesthetics sh*t. Valentino before was ageless elegance, with, I admit it, lots of granny suits for the ladies who lunch. Because that is the Valentino customer. But there were always nice girly things thrown in, see SS07. Their woman is a skimp.
5. Flattering shapes. If Mr Garavani liked anyone, he liked women. He cut nice gowns that would fit. Not ruffled tents.
6. More careful in the beauty department. Make-up and hair was always chic and ladylike at Valentino. Pretty, not edgy. It may sound stuck up, but it's the brand's identity. There's no thigh-high slits at Jil Sander either. Why is it wrong to stick to a working, wonderful DNA?
7. Bows. Where the hell did they go? A bow is Valentino trademark. Karl does tweed suits and pearls at Chanel, doesn't he?

Seriously, it's not that hard. I'm normally not like that and I can appreciate the most diverse and young designers. I just think there's a truckload of designers who could do a neater, nicer, better selling, more elegant product.

I could, for God's sake. I dare the Valentino company to let me do it. Or Erdem. Or both of us. I'm sure we'd work out great.

 

[DevonDevore]

ruffles for fall....hmmmm
i find them to be a bit distracting actually and im not exactly sure this is a fall collection???

 

[Spike413]

I have a lengthy list of what they should be doing. Here it comes:

1. Step it up in the daywear. Sure, Valentino was famous for his gowns, yet there were some great daywear focused collections, e.g. FW 07. All I ever see them doing is a low-cut, straight pair of trousers with a wide shirt.
2. More Frills and Frou Frou. Yeah, sorry. Valentino just spells frills. I go somewhere else for simplicity. Embroidery is lacking as well.
3. Better colour. There's too much black there. Use more pastels, more white and for once dare to use more than two colours in outfits. Also, prints never hurt at Valentino.
4. Stop the new aesthetics sh*t. Valentino before was ageless elegance, with, I admit it, lots of granny suits for the ladies who lunch. Because that is the Valentino customer. But there were always nice girly things thrown in, see SS07. Their woman is a skimp.
5. Flattering shapes. If Mr Garavani liked anyone, he liked women. He cut nice gowns that would fit. Not ruffled tents.
6. More careful in the beauty department. Make-up and hair was always chic and ladylike at Valentino. Pretty, not edgy. It may sound stuck up, but it's the brand's identity. There's no thigh-high slits at Jil Sander either. Why is it wrong to stick to a working, wonderful DNA?
7. Bows. Where the hell did they go? A bow is Valentino trademark. Karl does tweed suits and pearls at Chanel, doesn't he?

Seriously, it's not that hard. I'm normally not like that and I can appreciate the most diverse and young designers. I just think there's a truckload of designers who could do a neater, nicer, better selling, more elegant product.

I could, for God's sake. I dare the Valentino company to let me do it. Or Erdem. Or both of us. I'm sure we'd work out great.

So basically you want them to just replicate what Valentino himself did, correct?

That's an unreasonable expectation, not only because no new designer should try to duplicate the designer who came before them, but also because no matter how closely they may copy his look people will still rip it apart because it won't be as good as the original. Their job is not to replicate the archives, and their job is not to try to be another designer. Their job is, in essence, to distill what their predecessor was all about into a new vision, and that is exactly what they've been trying to do.

I think people talk about the DNA of the house and the look that a designer was known for as if they're the same concept, and they're not. Look at Chanel, look at Balenciaga, look at Givenchy...none of those houses look ANYTHING like they did when the namesake was alive and in charge, but the current designers take the spirit of the house and channel it through their own sensibilities to create something contemporary and personal to them.

 

[Chris_Couture05]

I guess Mr Garavani locked them into the archives after HC and threatened to make pug-food out of them if they wouldn't ruffle the thing up.

I still don't like it. I came to hate and that's what I'll do.

LOL yeah I guess Mr. Garavani put his foot in both of there ***es after that god awfull Couture collection. Looking at this though, its not extremly terrible. Although there are WAY to many ruffles. But I like a few of the day dresses and even the gowns. May favorites are the pink on the Sasha is wearing and the final red gown is actually very beautuful. Although its red its not the Valentino red (he's red had a darker hue) but still beautiful. Maybe just maybe they are learning...but I wont hold my breath.

 

[Zazie]

I guess I'm the only one who preferred their couture collection to this mindless frills galore.....

 

[irulan]

^^^I want them to stick closer to the established brand. I want to look at something with a Valentino tag and like it.

I agree that they are distilling parts of the old Valentino, but with lackluster results. I don't think that a good collection is too much of a high expectation. This is not a good collection, seriously, it's better than what they have shown before, but that won't satisfy me. It's rough at the edges. It lacks at all ends.
They clearly have a new vision (skimpy, younger), just like Allessandra had(sporty, more relaxed), but I just don't see it working out.

I'd like a different new vision better. What it comes down to, in the end, is that I want them fired.
It's entirely subjective and sure, why should I be in the place to claim anything from this brand, yet this is my opinion on them and what I think would work better.

They are neither Nicolas nor Karl. By no means do they have the spirit and energy to create such a powerful new vision for Valentino.
Plus, the gist is the same for Balenciaga and Chanel. This is not the case here.

 

[jomarlushka]

what is it with all the ruffles?! on some of the looks it works, actually really nicely, but for most of it it's overkill.

i agree too much ruffles and frills

it reminds me of the Oscar Marchesa gown Vera Farmiga wore

zimbio

 

[Chris_Couture05]

So basically you want them to just replicate what Valentino himself did, correct?

That's an unreasonable expectation, not only because no new designer should try to duplicate the designer who came before them, but also because no matter how closely they may copy his look people will still rip it apart because it won't be as good as the original. Their job is not to replicate the archives, and their job is not to try to be another designer. Their job is, in essence, to distill what their predecessor was all about into a new vision, and that is exactly what they've been trying to do.

I think people talk about the DNA of the house and the look that a designer was known for as if they're the same concept, and they're not. Look at Chanel, look at Balenciaga, look at Givenchy...none of those houses look ANYTHING like they did when the namesake was alive and in charge, but the current designers take the spirit of the house and channel it through their own sensibilities to create something contemporary and personal to them.

But they have been failing at that job, there past collection has completly missed the mark. I dont think they should copy his work but at least use his techniques, like mixing different colors and patterns and beautiful embroidery which I have not seen at all. There are missing elements of the house in their designs. And whlie yes some house like Chanel, Balenciaga and Givenchy may not look the same as they once did, we can still see the spirt of the house in thesse collection. Take Balenciaga for example, it may not look like it used to but one thing we can always count on is beautiful structered garments. The house has been making these kinds of garments since the 40's. So what Im saying is that the new designers of Valentino are missing things that Mr. Garavani used that made his house such a big success

 

[Urban Stylin]

Its a much younger Valentino than am used to seeing, still preffer the classic Valentino. Its signature seems to be dying out

 

[Katnani]

And so the battle as began...

I'm actually a little disappointed about this collection, tbh... I was looking for something like HC or 2009 S/S, which I loved, and I only got a less Chiuri and Piccioli collection and more Valentino's old boringness... The ruffles were actually different, a little too much repetitive still, but as a whole it was well-made. The chiffon was inappropriately used in some gowns, imo, it made them look floppy... Nevertheless, I liked the aesthetic of the collection, is was soft, feminine, but still edgy!

Makes me think that they've read all the nasty things that were said here in TFS and opted for a more classic approach... Waste talent... They can do better!

 

[Spike413]

But they have been failing at that job, there past collection has completly missed the mark. I dont think they should copy his work but at least use his techniques, like mixing different colors and patterns and beautiful embroidery which I have not seen at all. There are missing elements of the house in their designs. And whlie yes some house like Chanel, Balenciaga and Givenchy may not look the same as they once did, we can still see the spirt of the house in thesse collection. Take Balenciaga for example, it may not look like it used to but one thing we can always count on is beautiful structered garments. The house has been making these kinds of garments since the 40's. So what Im saying is that the new designers of Valentino are missing things that Mr. Garavani used that made his house such a big success

I think whether or not they've failed at that is completely subjective. Their spring collection, imo, was a complete success and a better version of Valentino than Valentino himself managed to show.

And again, what you've mentioned in there, color, embroidery, bows are surface details that aren't inherent to the identity of the house. These clothes are still very feminine, very pretty, very "done"...that's Valentino's woman in a nutshell. Same spirit different look.