Virginie Viard - Designer, Creative Director of Chanel

I gues she will be leading the house for a few seasons. And then they will announce a fashion figure I think ( hopefully Phoebe Philo ).

I have the feeling Carine Roitfeld could become the creative director of the Karl Lagerfeld brand....
 
Virginie Viard had a very close working relationship with Karl so it'll be more like Sarah Burton than Bill G scenario but I have a feeling VV will pull it off. She has worked so close with the atelier and the major clients of Chanel that they'll stick around for her and that will give her a platform for herself to become a standalone figure in fashion. At least that's what I hope.
 
But Sarah Burton's McQueen has never been better than what Lee was doing.
I am sure Viard will do very Chanel-esque collections of course. But we've seen this one direction of Chanel for 35 years now. Time to move on ! And to bring visionaries at the helm of this great house of Chanel.

"Crucial to the future of the closely held brand is whether Viard can emerge from Lagerfeld’s shadow and impose a convincing creative vision, or whether Chanel will seek an established outsider such as Phoebe Philo, who left LVMH’s Celine last year after a decade, or Alber Elbaz, formerly of Lanvin.

“They will look for a high-profile chief creative officer, and in the meantime they have got incredibly capable people in their team,” said Mario Ortelli, who runs a London-based advisory firm on luxury strategy. “Any designer in the world would be more than delighted to work with Chanel.”"

source : businessoffashion
 
I think Chanel is going to stick with Virginie for a while during the transitional period and unless things go extremely well, appoint a new creative director with a real vision for rebuilding the brand just like Lagerfeld did back in the day.

Let's not forget that the brand was once irrelevant and it could easily happen again if they don't play their cards right, a la Dior and Lanvin. One is a corporate bore without a steady direction for almost a decade now, the other a failure in every sense of the word.
 
I am sure Viard will do very Chanel-esque collections of course. But we've seen this one direction of Chanel for 35 years now. Time to move on ! And to bring visionaries at the helm of this great house of Chanel.

agree!
i am absolutley ok if she will do 1-2 shows dedicating to kaiser karl. but after it I deeply wish for her to dare and be brave and try putting out her own vision, if she has one of course! we cant forget she has been by his side 30 years translating only his designs and visions into actual clothing to the ateliers. and maybe that is what the wertheimers want.no risk,no newness,just continuition. with 70 years of age its not easy to keep an open mind.
i like the fact that shes"unknown" i prefer that more than all the boringly predictable designers we already know and speculate about.so i hope she can surprise. but we need to give her the chance of at least 3-4 collections.

otherwise im ready for the new big thing. and i hope its not phoebe unless she can surprise me. i think this woman is dry and has no humor. she made nice collections at the beginning for celine but i didnt liked her later collections,too boring too dry. so im hoping for virginie to bloom in her new role.
 
I cannot imagine what will happen next to Chanel. I mean, Karl was a star in a league of his own. I know this will get lots of hate, but now it is only Hedi or Tom Ford who are known as personalities to the world and are close to being household names. But both of them are not available, so I am doubting Chanel lasting long with Virginie - Karl was essential to the success of Chanel because of his star power, and in this age of internet and being famous, no one knows who is Virginie Viard. And I highly doubt she will explode like that.
I hope for new blood coming to Chanel. This is a really proper time to introduce new style.
 
For some reason I’m still a bit worried they will suddenly take Hedi on board and we’ll see SLP 3.0, just with more skinny tweed jackets. I can’t shake the feeling that Celine is just this strange pit stop for Hedi.
 
A crazy, absolutly impossible thing that I would love to happen: the Wertheimers hire Helmut Lang back to fashion! (ok, I know, now I can awake from my cloud)...but that would be orgasmic!
 
Nothing will change at Chanel for a while. Big shows, tweed and horrible footwear. It works and everyone loves it, no need for a change. Nobody knows why, but the house of Chanel remains relevant and cool. Any fashionista would kill for a “Boy” bag. And it will be like that for ages.

This said I’d love to see Elbaz at Chanel someday. If they ever get Hedi it will be the end of fashion.
 
It works and everyone loves it, no need for a change. Nobody knows why, but the house of Chanel remains relevant and cool.

It actually takes very little to shift public perception from thinking a brand is relevant and cool to downright disliking it, despite a brand's marketing efforts. Chanel worked mainly because it was Karl's fantasy world that most people wanted to be a part of, in addition to the premium quality and craftsmanship. Without the earnestness of a creative director, clients can feel a disconnect and flee fast. Of course no one is saying that Chanel would tank - there is no doubt that the bags are going to be popular for a while - but the time will come when surviving on autopilot mode just won't be an option anymore, and they need to prepare for a new, strong direction.
 
This is a crucial moment for Chanel. It's a very delicate matter. It's not like Dior where they could easily find a new pawn to throw to the wolves. Chanel is on a whole different level. They lost their golden goose. It's a 36 year tenure that suddenly went poof! People have compared his death to Coco Chanel and rightfully so. They HAD to announce a successor. The next year will make or break Chanel. It's a nightmare scenario for Chanel. Hopefully someone behind the scenes had a plan ready in advance. They need as much luck as they can get.
 
In terms of aesthetic, Virginie's style is really Chanel circa 2005/2007. She is quite dark and rock.
Karl's farewell will be shown at PFW but It's impossible to know their plans for Resort or Couture. They can do something like YSL's last Couture collection and maybe have archives pieces released for the year.
They needs someone like Virginie to orchestrate everything.

All the speculations proved why they needed to announce it earlier as it was obviously decided before. Apparently, Karl also drew Chanel's RTW FW19.

I think that Karl's aura can help Chanel for 1 year. The house cannot be in danger as it aesthetic is quite timeless. In terms of sales, I don't worry for them...

Alain Weirthemer needs to find a designer with whom he can have at least the same kind of trust he had for Karl. Karl had a particular work ethic, he didn't have a family and the Chanel family was a family. He didn't have a "personal life" for the past 30 years.

Chanel needs a visionary but also somebody who is not afraid of breaking the system. Karl changed the industry with his work ethic but can his successor follow?

I don't know about Phoebe. I like her a lot, I think she can do the job and have the balls to break barriers. But Chanel requires some things (live in Paris, show Haute Couture).

Karl was like Galliano. Chanel was fitted to his talent and excess. It needs to be different.
Trying to follow the same path will be dangerous for them...

Hopefully they will make the right decisions.`


I wonder what will happen with Fendi. The design team is great but they needs a leader and Silvia can't do womenswear.
 
It's clear the job of renewing Chanel is not only solved with a change in creative directorship but also at some point, how the Wertheimers plan to leave the company behind in not so long time. The passing of Lagerfeld might prove to be a reminder for them to think of their own succession and eventually also on all other management positions, as most of their senior executives have been with the company for decades already.

That being said, I do think they know exactly from all the mistakes made at other houses that they will carefully want to groom anybody they see as a candidate. The demands on any designer to take over a juggernaut of the size of Chanel are immense with all these collections and Virginie Viard is the logical stewart for the coming years to transition the brand into the next generation, having been the direct subordinate of Karl on the development of all the collections - Knowing the inner workings and being able to delegate between all the departments of the house is a challenge that no outsider can seamlessly do unless already accustomed and proven in the traditions and work ethics of a major couture house. It is a much bigger job than the creative director position at Dior womenswear so I am not even sure Phoebe Philo would want it (unlike Hedi Slimane).
 
I'm sure for the time being, she'll just play it safe and work around what's already in the archives. She has a s'load of material with which to work with after all, and I don't see anything wrong with that.

But if anything, I hope she cancels Chanel menswear. Please.
 
Her position will be permanent and all the people in the current Chanel team will stay. Her first show will be resort 2020 in May.

It’s weird because i don’t know what to expect from her.
I don’t know her references and her personal style is maybe the only indication of what we could see.

I’m kinda excited tbh.
 
Chanel Names Virginie Viard and Eric Pfrunder as New Artistic Directors After Karl Lagerfeld’s Passing
As Lagerfeld said of Viard last year in the Netflix documentary 7 Days Out, “Virginie is the most important person, not only for me but also for the atelier, for everything. She is my right arm, and even if I don’t see her, we are on the phone all the time.” Lagerfeld also shared the spotlight with her at some of Chanel’s shows, where the pair took bows together. At Chanel’s most recent haute couture show, Viard took a bow alone as Lagerfeld’s health prohibited him from being present.

Pfrunder will continue to oversee matters like advertising, marketing, films, events, and digital effort. A longtime Chanel veteran, Pfrunder may very well be the reason Lagerfeld embarked on a side career as a photographer later in life. According to WWD, back in 1987, Lagerfeld once complained to Pfrunder about the quality of images used in a press kit, so Pfrunder dared him to pick up a camera and try himself. “I said to Karl, ‘Okay, now you do it,’” he said. Both Pfrunder and Lagerfeld started at Chanel in 1983, and Lagerfeld had considered Pfrunder, along with Viard, as part of the stable of leaders at the company.

The appointment of two of Lagerfeld’s closest collaborators is also a testament to the designer’s legacy. He leaves the house, which between the death of its founder, Coco Chanel, and his own arrival was often on rocky footing, as strong as it’s ever been, and the appointments are a vote of confidence that there’s no pressing need to pursuit anything wildly different.
wmagazine.com
 

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