Vogue Paris June/July 2015 : Daria Werbowy by David Sims

[Royal-Galliano]

dear vogue paris,
a) i hate this layout. it looks like those intro pages in US vogue. keep trying...
b) we've seen androgyny daria a million times already, thanks for reminder. you know, she's quite versatile, why not give some new look a try?
c) it's 2015 for christ's sake, why does this look like a reprint from 2000?

vogue paris has blurred into a sexless blend of uninspired studio shoots (par sims/m&m/i&v) and feurer/bensimon/sgura retro location shoots. but yeah, let's begin with the cover girls...

 

[arlekindearrabal]

People seem to conveniently forget, that Vogue under Carine had a big input from Alt. People just have to look at CR to see what a mess she's capable of all by herself. The Vogue aesthetic of the last years under Carine, is in a huge measure Alt's aesthetic, so its a no brainer that she was chosen to replace her. I do not see why she has to create a new style or choose different models if those were the ones she liked and probably help to choose in the first place. If VP wanted a change of direction they would have chosen an outsider, not someone that helped to stir the boat in that direction. I can understand people wanting a different director, but implying that Alt is just following Carines lead strikes me as very unfair.

I agree with what you say to a certain extent. I am aware that many iconic VP under Carine eds were in fact styled by Alt, but let's not forget she was working under Roitfeld so Emmanuelle certainly had to abide by her input, she was by no means at-large, to just put to print whatever she wanted.

Now that she has that power, the results are continually bland and certainly lack that je ne sais quois that her work under Carine had. As Royal-Galliano said, the magazine has become this stale, revolving blur of same girls, same photographers putting forward underwhelming creative results.

 

[Creative]

^Totally right. I also think Alt's faves were sort of similar to Carine's, and it's normal she keeps using them. But now she's the boss, it's HER tenure so she 'should' bring someone fresh that people could relate to her reign at the magazine.

It's not a must, of course, but if I were the editor-in-chief of the most amazing magazine in the world, I would like to leave my personal stamp, something people could relate to me... And she is far away from getting that. In fact, what she's been doing is a watered down version of what Carine did.

Besides, VP used to be THE magazine. Every girl that made it to the cover (Rose Cordero aside) was an instant success. Andreea hasn't been a total success at all. She's just there in the same way other models are, and has a normal career.

When you have that sort of power you must feel in the urge to discover new girls, new photographers, push new talents... But all I see from Alt is indifference and a very blasé attitude. Nothing bold, nothing daring, nothing fresh... It gets super boring. And it shows.

Someone posted the VP numbers in a thread and foreign sales have declined. Cool magazines have a very important foreign distribution because people feel the money they are spending is worth it.

Right now I wouldn't spend what VP costs because I see it in two minutes and once I've flipped through the magazine I don't want to open it again. In 2006 my VPs were ripped to shreads because I couldn't stop looking at them.

And it's sad... Because the whole industry felt inspired by Vogue Paris and in a way made the other publications a little bit better too. Mert & Marcus became a success because of VP. Lara Stone too. Benjamin... too. Right now new models don't make it big (Anna aside), there aren't new cool stylists, and no new cool photographers (Jamie aside, but he can't make it big because doesn't have a lot of support).

 

[Les_Sucettes]

I agree with what you say to a certain extent. I am aware that many iconic VP under Carine eds were in fact styled by Alt, but let's not forget she was working under Roitfeld so Emmanuelle certainly had to abide by her input, she was by no means at-large, to just put to print whatever she wanted.

Now that she has that power, the results are continually bland and certainly lack that je ne sais quois that her work under Carine had. As Royal-Galliano said, the magazine has become this stale, revolving blur of same girls, same photographers putting forward underwhelming creative results.

You see but you cannot have it both ways, or its a different magazine or its the same. This discussion was not about if Carine was better than Alt at VP, a discussion i have absolutely no patience for, but if Alt was just trying to "copy" her by using the same models. And that is not correct, because Alts VP style, will always have massive elements of what VP was under Carine, simply because they are also her, she worked for years on them, she probably help choose them, but on the other hand the magazine is cleaner, not so much entrenched in a french politically incorrectness that may sound cool in theory is starting to be questioned in modern France. For better or for worse this is clearly Emmanuelle's magazine, its more than obvious she was chosen because she could marry this two sides.

There is an argument to be made that a magazine is the product of a team, and if a good team breaks the product will always be poorer for it. Carine that i hugely admire, makes a disgusting mess of her own magazine, because she's allowed to run riot with it, so clearly her talent needs contrains. Emmanuelle on the other hand would benefit from taking risks. But people talking like Alt was not hugely influential in Carines tenure will always strike me as very unfair.

 

[Lola701]

The thing about VP under Carine was that the contributors were different with different perspectives. Look at Carine's team!
Vogue Paris was about three strong fashion editors: M.A.S, Alt & Roitfeld. Threee different and distinctives point of view.
They were all influencial and worked with powerful designers/brands. Carine was working with Tom Ford at both YSL & Gucci, MAS was working with Nicolas G. at Balenciaga and Emmanuelle was working with Karl at Chanel.

So, Vogue Paris in terms of models was all about their campaigns/favorite girls. That's why girls like Dewi, Jessica...etc. appeared in the mag. It was the same for the photographers: I&V, Testino, McDean,M&M...etc.
And at the same time, some models became favorites of all fashion editors.

Just look at Daria: she became the last Gucci girl with Carine, then became a Vogue Paris favorite and later, Emmanuelle used her to death for Chanel (4 seasons i think) and after at Balmain....while being featured over and over again at VP.

Today, at Vogue Paris they have Emmanuelle former assistants...which mean, the kind of same aesthetic and some international editors who are not giving their best to the mag.

Carine is still good but an entire magazine was too ambitious. She did some great eds in her mag but she is the only stylist of her magazine so, old tricks with new photographers and a "low budget mag" gave us the messy experience of Cr Fashion book.

Vogue Paris today is a very french mag. It looks like a 90's/earky 00's Elle. It is not the international mag it used to be so i'm not surprised by the fact that the sales declined abroard.
Numero is stronger than ever today because it is french "international" magazine.

 

[Xone]

i always remember Carine's last cover with Saskia by M&M (i think one her her first vogue covers) and thought wow what a way to say goodbye....

Alt's produced some good editorials in her tenure but overall looks lazy...comfortable,no risk,no curiosity....even with Suzanne Koller on board it hasn't change that much...(btw Koller suits better in her own magazine SelfService)..

 

[Chanelcouture09]

Oh god.. not this old chestnut. It's been 4 years since Carine left - can we please move this along already! - Carine's magazine was only so good because of the team she had around her which included Emmanuelle - the publication didn't like Carine's way of working, they like how Emmanuelle works hence why she's still in her position at the helm of the magazine - Emmanuelle's focus is on the magazine, not how much press she herself is getting which was one of the many fallbacks of Carine, she was the magazine and the magazine was Carine Roitfeld.

I cannot believe anyone is faulting this cover - its gorgeous, clean, simple with one of the best models on it - its a summer cover, if Emmanuelle had shot it on a beach again she would have been strung up by you bunch of hypocrites!

Please god, if I hear 'well she's not Carine' one more time... go and look at CRFashionBook and come back to me and tell me how amazing that has worked out..

 

[Xone]

i agree with you Lola in most of your opinions....Carine should apply same approach she did on VP.

i Guess Emmanuelle brings Suzanne Koller for that...but Koller approach still needs to find her place in VP...it still feels very selfservice (which is good if we were talking on that magazine, btw is she still in charge on SS???)

from time to time there we can get a good editorial in VP so i hope VP finds its way back to the international magazine you said...

The thing about VP under Carine was that the contributors were different with different perspectives. Look at Carine's team!
Vogue Paris was about three strong fashion editors: M.A.S, Alt & Roitfeld. Threee different and distinctives point of view.
They were all influencial and worked with powerful designers/brands. Carine was working with Tom Ford at both YSL & Gucci, MAS was working with Nicolas G. at Balenciaga and Emmanuelle was working with Karl at Chanel.

So, Vogue Paris in terms of models was all about their campaigns/favorite girls. That's why girls like Dewi, Jessica...etc. appeared in the mag. It was the same for the photographers: I&V, Testino, McDean,M&M...etc.
And at the same time, some models became favorites of all fashion editors.

Just look at Daria: she became the last Gucci girl with Carine, then became a Vogue Paris favorite and later, Emmanuelle used her to death for Chanel (4 seasons i think) and after at Balmain....while being featured over and over again at VP.

Today, at Vogue Paris they have Emmanuelle former assistants...which mean, the kind of same aesthetic and some international editors who are not giving their best to the mag.

Carine is still good but an entire magazine was too ambitious. She did some great eds in her mag but she is the only stylist of her magazine so, old tricks with new photographers and a "low budget mag" gave us the messy experience of Cr Fashion book.

Vogue Paris today is a very french mag. It looks like a 90's/earky 00's Elle. It is not the international mag it used to be so i'm not surprised by the fact that the sales declined abroard.
Numero is stronger than ever today because it is french "international" magazine.

 

[MON]

Oh god.. not this old chestnut. It's been 4 years since Carine left - can we please move this along already! - Carine's magazine was only so good because of the team she had around her which included Emmanuelle - the publication didn't like Carine's way of working, they like how Emmanuelle works hence why she's still in her position at the helm of the magazine - Emmanuelle's focus is on the magazine, not how much press she herself is getting which was one of the many fallbacks of Carine, she was the magazine and the magazine was Carine Roitfeld.

I cannot believe anyone is faulting this cover - its gorgeous, clean, simple with one of the best models on it - its a summer cover, if Emmanuelle had shot it on a beach again she would have been strung up by you bunch of hypocrites!

Please god, if I hear 'well she's not Carine' one more time... go and look at CRFashionBook and come back to me and tell me how amazing that has worked out..

Oh my goodness! Very well said and wouldn't even dare change a word! It's time to move forward.

 

[MON]

Review

Free Style
Model: Daria Werbowy
Photographer: David Sims
Stylist: Emmanuelle Alt

Vive Allure
Model:
Photographer: Terry Richardson
Stylist: Emmanuelle Alt

Nouvelle Vague
Model:
Photographer: Paolo Roversi
Stylist: Suzanne Koller

Cous D'éclat
Model:
Photographer: Alasdair McLellan
Stylist: Suzanne Koller

Images from: issuu.com/Condenastfrance​

I am only excited for the 2 editorials by Emmanuelle. The editorials of Suzanne is not reflective of the aesthetics of Vogue Paris. I said it before and I'll say it again, Alasdair is not for Vogue Paris. I'll reserve my judgment for Roversi's editorial. Yet again it's like a mixture of Vogue UK and Vogue Paris.

The problem with Vogue Paris now is that Emmanuelle's team is weak. The strongest one from her team at the moment has to be Géraldine. Suzanne Koller needs to be fired from this magazine because she adds nothing to the magazine. Cous D'éclat is a mess and it's boring. It doesn't excite me at all and I've just seen the preview. Previews should excite the readers and not make them want to question the mere presence of the stylist in the magazine.

Alt needs to get M.A.S., Marie Chaix, Carlyne Cerf +++ back on board because her vision isn't being well executed by Suzanne. As a fashion director, Suzanne is failing miserably in her job. Sorry not sorry. I'm warming up to Emmanuelle's vision for the magazine (80s, 90s), it's just Suzanne's work that I can't deal with. TBH, Vogue Paris signed its own death when Suzanne Koller signed a deal with them. This ain't Self Service girl. Take away Suzanne's editorials and you'd have a strong issue preview. Her early years were amazing in comparison to the 2015 round up (editorial wise). Géraldine's work puts Suzanne's work to shame and it's such a shame that splendid work never gets to be on the main roster of editorials. Her Montres editorial serves Old VP meets New VP. What a waste of money.

 

[kokobombon]

is that Mica in "Vive Allure"?

thanks for the previews, Mon

 

[MON]

^ I thought so too, but I don't wanna be misleading since I wasn't sure. But it looks like her non?

You're most welcome!

 

[arlekindearrabal]

You see but you cannot have it both ways, or its a different magazine or its the same. This discussion was not about if Carine was better than Alt at VP, a discussion i have absolutely no patience for, but if Alt was just trying to "copy" her by using the same models.

This is certainly no Carine VS Emmanuelle. I'm only stating what many of us think: Vogue Paris was much more interesting when the former was at the helm. As you say, the product speaks for itself.

And that is not correct, because Alts VP style, will always have massive elements of what VP was under Carine, simply because they are also her, she worked for years on them, she probably help choose them, but on the other hand the magazine is cleaner, not so much entrenched in a french politically incorrectness that may sound cool in theory is starting to be questioned in modern France. For better or for worse this is clearly Emmanuelle's magazine, its more than obvious she was chosen because she could marry this two sides.

That is the general assumption as to why Roitfeld was replaced by Alt: she could offer the same but in a 'lighter' (ie, less controversial) manner. I personally can't have much respect for someone that takes a former editor's general template (however much she may have contributed to it) and just runs with it, all while offering subpar results.

There is an argument to be made that a magazine is the product of a team, and if a good team breaks the product will always be poorer for it. Carine that i hugely admire, makes a disgusting mess of her own magazine, because she's allowed to run riot with it, so clearly her talent needs contrains. Emmanuelle on the other hand would benefit from taking risks. But people talking like Alt was not hugely influential in Carines tenure will always strike me as very unfair.

Given the constraints Carine has had to face while editing her magazine, I'd say she's done much more than a 'disgusting mess'. As for Alt, I'd very much agree with the bolded. But then again, that's probably not why she's there for, so I wouldn't hold my breath.

 

[Riseup]

Omg Lineisy giving me life in those previews!!! Can't wait!

 

[Creative]

I used to love Carine and his years at VP (at the end it was quite boring and uninspired, though), but recognize that what she's doing at CR is AWFUL.

I honestly think 90% of the people who 'like' what Alt's doing are just fanboys who can never find flaws in the people they like. You might like one ed, one cover... but as a whole, the vibe this magazines gives is depressing.

If this discussion pops up so often it might be because she's not getting it right. I've never ever heard of how missed Esteban Cortázar is at Ungaro. Because he added nothing to the brand. Carine created VP and it's normal people compare and miss the good old days, the boldness, the will to create something good and the FASHION. And I don't want her to come back at all, but want something interesting at the helm.

 

[StoneSkipper]

Lineisy Montero AND Grace Bol? Oh, Vogue Paris, you know how to make your way to my heart.

 

[IndigoHomme]

Vogue Paris June/July 2015, the previews:


issuu.com/condenastfrance

 

[thatsfierce]

YAY! FOR LINEISY AND GRACE!!!!! that's amazing! they both look stunning
I can't wait for more.

 

[elle_gb]

Interesting review very dynamic and versatile.

 

[TheoG]

Cous D'éclat Preview

Photographer: Alasdair McLellan
Stylist: Suzanne Koller
Models: Damaris Goddrie, Grace Bol, Lineisy Montero and Amilna Estevão

*amen69fashion.tumblr