Yves Saint Laurent F/W 09.10 Paris

[helmut.newton]

So absolutely true. For me, it all went downhill after FW 07...ever since then, he's just lost it entirely.

Seriously, Stefano couldn't have made a more boring collection if he tried. This is SO awful. As I'm typing this, I honestly can't even remember what a single outfit.

Agree 100%.

 

[J'ador-DioR]

Review from WWD

Yves Saint Laurent RTW Fall 2009

Yves Saint Laurent RTW Fall 2009
by WWD Staff
Posted Monday March 09, 2009
From WWD.COM

The lady is a vamp and, most likely, a power player. She is also ultra, ultrachic. In the fall collection he showed on Monday for Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati engaged in every bit of the rumination and precision that have at times stifled his collections, marshaling them now to produce a terrific show. It brought a distinct modernity to fall’s suited, dressed-up story.

Though Pilati’s program notes began with the word “understatement,” this collection had nothing at all to do with discretion in either attitude or cut. Rather it was about controlled bravado, starting with an extensive lineup of black leather. This included a zip-up maillot, which suggested, the designer’s claim aside, that spare and understated should not be confused.

More functional (for those other than a gal named Barbie celebrating the big 5-0 by getting down and dirty in the backyard of the dream house in Malibu) were the group’s other offerings, any number of jackets and coats, including a low-belted version with a studded collar; a lean, belted suit, and tight, racy pants. Most struck a mood from slick to severe while stopping short of arch.

Among Pilati’s other proposals, chalk stripes on gray looked classic-plus, especially in a long, mannish jacket over a short skirt, a look that tested the Eighties waters without jumping in. While this jacket was straightforward, more often Pilati incorporated decorative details of cut, such as slicing a square arch into the hem of a gray quilted coat or cutting away a suit’s elongated jacket and skirt for a double-tulip effect.

Even the most familiar of standards got a flourish, a plain shift, newly broad-shouldered and all aglow in icy gray metallic; white shirts with exploded volumes at the neck or sleeves; a smoking with full-cut pants chopped off just below the knees. It all added up to sensual strength with elegance, and that’s a look to which a lot of women aspire.

 

[4n98]

I saw YSL's androgynism vibe in it indeed, it's classy.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I'm just baffled.

What happened to the charm? His first 6 collections for the house were charming, lively, vibrant and chic. They felt Saint Laurent because they were so charismatic. Since FW 07, it's like Stefano has done everything he possibly can to strip his collections of everything that made his first 6 so great. There's no more color, there's no more frivolity, there's no more charm, no more charisma, no more life, no more Parisian-chic...nothing. Honestly, Pilati...just because you use the YSL codes doesn't mean that these collections are automatically YSL. The house requires much more than shows packed le smokings.

This collection makes me realize how much I miss Tom Ford's YSL, or at least the pre-2008 Stefano.

 

[*ana*]

i see some nice looks/shapes/ideas, but overall i'm disappointed. and that bathing suit couldn't be more random.

 

[XavierRaphael]

YSL IS BACK! look at those chic jackets!

 

[Leeroi]

when it's good, it's good. when it's bad, it's bad.

 

[masquerade]

I like it.

I don't think its a great collection, but its good. It's boring, but everything is nice

 

[ForChicSake]

zzzzzzzzzzzz

 

[Squizree]

Seriously, I feel like this collection belongs in New York. I just dont get it, it's so simple and boring for YSL.

 

[kinkexplosion]

The collection lacks depth and soul.

Need to see the shoes...

 

[juanpyx]

I like some looks, but its weird, It's no chic, so manly!

 

[disco54]

what i dont get is why some fashion critiques were even exalting this collection , its much a do about nothing , it looks like a new york fashion show from 1985, with excess grey flannel and PVC.

 

[Nixon058]

The fit on a lot of the pieces are not flattering...

 

[Karolina.]

I quite like it

 

[Zazie]

After the overload of frills, fur, studs, tiny "Posh" dresses in Paris, It's really good to see YSL sending refined, elegant, chic and seductive clothes onto the runway. There's nothing wrong with subtlety in fashion, and this cannot be mistaken for run-of-the-mill jackets, coats and suits because of the fantastic cut, carefully calibrated volumes and streamlined proportions. The curved hem of that grey, wrap dress is just perfect.

The sex appeal here is not the feathers and fur enrobed va-va voom Bardot 'kitten" at Balmain and Givenchy, it's more Marlene Dietrich - elegant, feminine and a slight hint of leather under those coats and jackets. To me, this is much more wearable as well, as a normal day-to-day functioning person - there're just so many occasions for these tiny over-decorated cocktail dresses and fur laden coats. Nothing wrong with a bit of quiet in the midst of all the extravaganza, especially in these more sober times.

 

[caliboy672180]

i guess i am missing the chic-ness that that all the critics are seeing. doesnt matter anyway...all people buy are the shoes and bags.

 

[AdaK]

Boy, is it tempting to blame the economy.

 

[elle_gb]

I love the black color idea that give such a strong collection but when look in pieces it's just a bit boring.

 

[fincher]

still, i´m not sure how have i feel this collection. But anyway, some pieces are really beautiful. love the black colour