Yves Saint Laurent S/S 10 Paris

[mikeijames]

Thank you taz, for the archival input. I honestly don't see what's not to like about a classic collection with outstanding tailoring. The shapes are loose, easy, yet well-structured. The white pieces are extremely pretty and feminine without being frivolous. And what's the deal with being judgmental over *one* skirt? Geez, didn't Stella McCartney do fruits before for Chloe, without incurring the same wrath? Did people ask for her head to roll off the Chloe pedestal for putting a PINEAPPLE on her blouse? It seems really prejudiced to damn the entire collection for one item, and it's not even an awful skirt, just a print/pastiche.

as i recall, stella mccartney never presented the fruit at chloe in any sort of serious way. if pilati inserted these strawberries as some wild sexually perverse and totally obvious joke like stella did, then he should say so. otherwise, they accomplished nothing in this collection. this collection could have used a healthy dose of editing.

 

[taz]

Guess who wants to wear the strawberry dress?

Yves Saint Laurent's Intellectual Moment

Godfrey Deeny Godfrey Deeny – Tue Oct 6, 9:08 am ET

Paris – Brainy is one good way to describe the fashion created by Stefano Pilati, whose latest collection for Yves Saint Laurent on Monday, Oct. 5, in Paris was an experimental exercise that managed to create fashion of great wit, and probably real influence.
Pilati possibly took more risks with this spring 2010 collection than any he has done before for YSL, pumping out sleeves in great white thermo bonded mess jackets, using rosettes as the bodices of dresses or sassing up overalls with ruffled shoulder straps.
Pairing a scalloped back blue wool bolero with a black leather apron dress was a tricky proposition, but Pilati brought it off with aplomb.
Intellectual fashion, in that his clothes reinvent typical construction, is what this designer does. And like the founder of the house, Pilati is a great colorist, from the somber grays and nudes to the optimistic periwinkle blues and coral pinks.
The Italian-born designer retains a zany sense of mischief, using strawberries as ceramic earrings, placing the fruit in bright red on a post-modern flamenco dress and then darkening them in some great looks that will be highly admired.
"I want to wear that strawberry dress," cooed Kate Moss, star of the current YSL ad campaign, backstage to Pilati.
"It's many, many ideas, a multiplicity of influences, an aesthetic paradigm of new minimalism," said Pilati.
The show also featured some great accessories, including natty, pointy-toed platforms with flying buttress heels, cool gray gloves with ribboned uppers and primitive steel bracelets. However, cutting horizontal holes into lederhosen was a bit contrived.
The show, staged in the contemporary art museum Palais de Tokyo, on a rectangular catwalk, reconfirmed Pilati as a key trendsetter.

fashionwiredaily.com

 

[Zazie]

as i recall, stella mccartney never presented the fruit at chloe in any sort of serious way. if pilati inserted these strawberries as some wild sexually perverse and totally obvious joke like stella did, then he should say so. otherwise, they accomplished nothing in this collection. this collection could have used a healthy dose of editing.

I think I'll take you more seriously if you had presented a viable critique of the entire collection instead of being fixated on just one garment. How do you judge whether Pilati or McCartney is "serious" when they place a fruit on a top or skirt? Is this even a serious thing worth debating? This is also my problem with those who described the collection as "incoherent", citing over and over that *one* skirt. It's such an obsession with a trivial accent on one item. It defies understanding. To consider the collection as a *whole*, this season, he answered his critics who accused him of too much austerity last fall with more feminine blousons and softer finishes, eg. the raw edges, but of course this then invites another barrage of scorn. Even the critics admitted that the minimalism of his last collection is influencing runways this season, and directional editorials such as the one with Tao as Tina Chow.

What I can't stand is his over-wrought vocabulary silliness....ugh.." fashion paradigm"?? But then I don't fixate on that, it is trivial, I focus on the clothes and what they say.

 

[balmain1914]

any HQs??

 

[girlalamode]

I like the all black outfit!

But the fruit? No no no

 

[sonja1980]

I think the strawberries are a joke. come on...!?

 

[mikeijames]

I think I'll take you more seriously if you had presented a viable critique of the entire collection instead of being fixated on just one garment. How do you judge whether Pilati or McCartney is "serious" when they place a fruit on a top or skirt? Is this even a serious thing worth debating? This is also my problem with those who described the collection as "incoherent", citing over and over that *one* skirt. It's such an obsession with a trivial accent on one item. It defies understanding. To consider the collection as a *whole*, this season, he answered his critics who accused him of too much austerity last fall with more feminine blousons and softer finishes, eg. the raw edges, but of course this then invites another barrage of scorn. Even the critics admitted that the minimalism of his last collection is influencing runways this season, and directional editorials such as the one with Tao as Tina Chow.

What I can't stand is his over-wrought vocabulary silliness....ugh.." fashion paradigm"?? But then I don't fixate on that, it is trivial, I focus on the clothes and what they say.

oh how quickly we forget. the t-shirts that accompanied that pineapple bathing suit collection said things like "keep your bananas off my melons." it's clearly tongue in cheek.

(style.com)

my larger point stands: the strawberries added nothing to this collection. i repeat, stefano pilati turned out some of the most quintessentially saint laurent pieces in this collection and had he but edited this show a bit, he'd have hit this collection out of the park. these strawberries don't add anything to the show -- in fact, they take away from the rather strong pieces he did present. now, the fact that kate moss -- who's getting paid in the millions for this shoot -- would say she wants to wear this means nothing. if you're going to use something like a strawberry print, at least make it mean something. otherwise, leave it out and use the idea later. when he used the flower print some years back, he really went all the way -- from the way he styled their hair to the flowers on the runway.

this just looked ill-conceived.

 

[Zazie]

"Keep your bananas off my melons"??? Now I really can't take what your beef with YSL seriously if you think that type of cheap slogans at least "mean something"! Yeah, maybe YSL should have printed "keep your fingers off my strawberry patch", that would suit the YSL image. This discussion ends here, please go ahead and fixate all you want on that ONE strawberry skirt. Obviously it's personal, whatever you have with Pilati. No point to even try to attempt logic here. Finito.

 

[Bidwell]

While I admire much of what Stefano Pilati offers, this particular season seems poor in detail and misjudged in some of the proportions and/or fabrics. I will leave the silly skirt out of it.
Original YSL always had details that said EVERYTHING (especially since the forms themselves were always simple classics). Most if all that is missing here.

 

[mikeijames]

"Keep your bananas off my melons"??? Now I really can't take what your beef with YSL seriously if you think that type of cheap slogans at least "mean something"! Yeah, maybe YSL should have printed "keep your fingers off my strawberry patch", that would suit the YSL image. This discussion ends here, please go ahead and fixate all you want on that ONE strawberry skirt. Obviously it's personal, whatever you have with Pilati. No point to even try to attempt logic here. Finito.

if you had even attempted to read my post, you'd have understood i said exactly the opposite. and if you had bothered to actually look at the pieces in this collection, you'd have realized he used strawberries on more than one piece.

but then again, anyone actually reading this realizes you did neither.

style.com

 

[enVogue]

Beautiful collection, I'm amazed by the idea of using strawberry print

 

[BerlinRocks]

the strawberries added nothing to this collection.

and what about decoration ?

i'm so surprised decoration is sort of back ... i should have a deeper look at recent collections (Miu Miu is having a sort of statement about it. Should see who else is doing it.)

 

[mikeijames]

and what about decoration ?

i'm so surprised decoration is sort of back ... i should have a deeper look at recent collections (Miu Miu is having a sort of statement about it. Should see who else is doing it.)

i agree. decoration is sort of back and embellishment is here to stay (thanks to balmain, pucci, and others), but this yves saint laurent collection, if anything, discussed the opposite of decoration. most of the pieces of this collection found themselves the height of minimalist perfection. that is, except the strawberries:

style.com

 

[BerlinRocks]

self service 31 fw 09-10
via darknoire

 

[helmut.newton]

I agree with what everyone is saying about the incohesiveness of this collection. It lacks a vision, which is very strange, because Pilati is one of the few designers that puts out a strong, concise aesthetic each season. It seems like this season he lost control or something.

There are many good ideas, but those ideas contrast eachother too much and thats why the strawberries don't make sense. The collection is about a certain minimalism and elegance and then comes a dress with strawberries? It doesn't make sense, at least to me.


Details:

style.com/

 

[helmut.newton]

I also wish he would have taken this idea and developed it further. It was the most interesting part of the collection for me.

style.com/

 

[disco54]

some of the pantsuits are nice but the dresses and skirt combos are just weird . The accessories as usual are great. YSL shoes are great

 

[iyemstoopid]

i was thinking maybe stefano was trying to pull a prada with the strawberries, showing something strange to throw off the show and put people into discussion into the meaning/reasoning etc, and eventually they'll get photographed to death and we'll "get" it. I guess in defense of stefano, I feel like as random as the strawberries may seem, he knew what he was doing with them, and he's trying to move what ysl by stefano pilati forward- stepping away from his minimalist/masculine aesthetic.

 

[taz]

I don't get the buzz about the strawberries , Yves himself had shown a fruit bunch 8 years ago in his couture show & there was no problem at all. it is only a repeated motif, just like the Star collection that Pilati did 2 years ago, YSL culture is full of repeated motifs like lips, wheat, moons, stars, roses, lilies, ribbons, hearts, fruits, ploka dots, bayadere lines & some of Henry Mattise patterns....


it is not that much senstive issue as Tom Ford's vagina dress with the penis pendant!

I wonder what would be the reaction if there were some pineapples?!?!?!

 

[Mutterlein]

Is the fruit really that big of deal? It's an old YSL references, plain and simple. My issue was how lackluster these clothes are. Certainly they are nice clothes, but seriously some of these looks could just as easily be Anne Taylor. Perfect for an older customer, but not the thing you need to sustain a prestigious French luxury brand. We all know Pilati can do better. 3 seasons now of relatively oomphless collections. hmmmm....