PARIS — Within the weird and not-so-wonderful collection that Stefano Pilati sent out for Yves Saint Laurent were haunting images of other, buried treasures.
A priestly beauty circled the snowy ruffs on a blouse or a Vatican cape touched the shoulders, recalling Mr. Pilati’s early work for the house.
Traces of the designer’s later vision of chic severity appeared as a curvy white sleeveless jacket and sharp shorts. And reverberating through the peasant looks, from off-the-shoulder blouse to a strawberry print on a white cotton skirt, there was some sweet suggestion of an innocent country childhood.
But what did all this mean as a cohesive collection? Backstage, Mr. Pilati tried to explain the choices of different fabrics — which included his sleek take on leather and the summer cottons. He also referred to the apron effect that left gaping open backs. But the story line for summer 2010 was complex, not to say confusing, compared with the winter collection. That pared-down, 21st-century minimalism is now influencing the runways.
This new show contained some real puzzles: the leather shorts with bondage straps at the thighs; the oh-so-unsophisticated peasant takes, including strawberry earrings; and just three unsubtle colors — blue, raspberry pink and forest green — among the black and white.
In his tenure at YSL, Mr. Pilati has positioned the style as less about the bourgeois elegance that the brand had grown into and more for arty individuals. Perhaps Claudia Schiffer or Kate Moss, the face of the fragrance, might relate to a little black dress or the inevitable tuxedo, shown with a clerical froth at the neck.
But why even offer a hesitant version of the Saint Laurent heritage — like the strawberry-fields-for-never peasant skirt? Deep down, you can feel that Mr. Pilati is a romantic who has been forcing himself to create a carapace of chic. Just occasionally, as in a white cotton dress, impeccably cut on the curve, this Saint Laurent collection fused an urban sophistication with country innocence in a beautiful way.