We are indebted to 19th century explorers such as Sir Richard Burton and Isabelle Bird for their records of the exotica of forgotten cultures, undiscovered landscapes and mysterious style.
Dries Van Noten is the designer who brings their diaries and adventures back to vibrant life. He unveiled a caravanserai of exquisite fabrics, extraordinary prints and extravagantly wearable clothes in his spring/summer 2010 collection in Paris this afternoon.
From the very first outfit on the catwalk - a pink brocade coat, with golden brocade, slim-cut, cropped trousers – it was obvious we were in for a feast of sumptuous pageantry for the present-day.
Van Noten gathered the most delectable silks, satins, embroideries and handwoven materials from the most far-flung corners of the globe.
One of the handwoven, Uzbekistan “Ikat” printed fabrics he revealed backstage had undergone a two-day journey by donkey, across river-beds and mountain ranges, in order to reach a DHL courier rendez-vous, so it could be transported to his studio in Antwerp.
Other fabrics were handwoven in Sumatra, Bali and India, or developed in consultation with museum curators in China and Japan.
The result was a treasure chest of silk and satin and brocade, printed in dazzling, age-old prints, paisleys and patterns, inspired by long-gone empires and dynasties.
Rainbow-bright colours of a tropical jungle or ancient court, mingled with the duller, khaki shades of earth and sand. Silver and gold beading and intricate embroideries were sprinkled like favours at the court of Genghis Khan. Necklaces, chokers and cuffs continued the extravaganza of opulence: multi-roped pearls worthy of a maharajah, dazzling stones, crystals and diamante.
The shapes were contemporary – cuffed shorts, slim pants, kimono-jackets, shell-tops, sashed jackets, vests and pinafores. Particularly striking was Van Noten’s sari-style evening gowns, where a luxuriant swathe of multi-hued, gilded silk, was caught at the hip of a metallic shell top.
Lovingly created in such brilliant mixes of fabric and colour, the clothes appeared as a kind of fashion path to Samarkand, magical interpretations of what we would all love to wear.