Alexander McQueen S/S 2018 Paris

[vogue28]

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[vogue28]

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[vogue28]

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[vogue28]

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https://www.turboimagehost.com/p/36332177/KIM_0611.jpg.html

 

[zacatecas570]

I miss Alexander McQueen structured shapes and beautiful execution, this looks like a mix of Dior from Galliano, Simons and Chiuri.

 

[Nepenthes]

This collection felt uninspiring. Like a revamped version of things she has done in the past. Several beautiful pieces but nothing new or exciting.

 

[billiejbob]

The long coats are to die for.
Everything else is...well, exactly what I expected. I just see it as too repetitive and ugly. I want to like it. I want to like all her collections...but I can't. The only collections I have liked of hers were her first two but after that it's just blugh.
No doubt PLENTY of these pieces will end up on the Ugliest Dress thread.

Such a shame because I want her to do well...

 

[Yohji]

What a nightmare.

She is rivalling Dolce & Gabbana in the repetition stakes.

 

[perhydrol]

She's making the brand less and less relevant. And it's not like it's ugly (ok, some looks are truly horrible) but it's just the same thing all over again. It's her 7th year actually and she seems to forgot about the founder of the house she's been working for.

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

Look, I get that fashion isn’t always about change, change, change anymore. Very very few designers these days do that 180 degree flip that they used to. But come on, how many times have we seen these shapes from her before? Jackets zipped off at the waist to flap, tiered ruffled dresses, destroyed dresses worn over men’s trousers, I could go one. We need fresh new energy not just at this house but everywhere right now. This is just depressing when designers pump out collections that look like a slightly tweaked modified version of the same crap they put out the season before.

 

[jeanclaude]

LVMH should rebrand this label to "Sarah McBurton", because here there´s no trace of Alexander at all. It´s just about her, her, her and her.

And Sara´s work compared to McQueen´s feels like watching "The princess bride" after having enjoyed masterpieces like "The Shining" or "Blade Runner".

 

[StoneSkipper]

In all honesty, I think she'd be stuck between a rock and a hard place no matter what she did. I mean, how do you follow-up McQueen? He was the exception, rather than rule, and Burton isn't untalented by any means (especially in dress-making - those corseted pieces at the end are gorgeous), but she doesn't have an ounce of the prowess he did.

That being said, while I don't think she's bad at all (seriously, she's done so much worse), I can't help but want the bite and commentary McQueen would've likely provided (and it's desperately needed). This brand is about the unexpected, the inspiring, and there's nothing of those two qualities in this English Rose crap. Fashion doesn't need more of that, and I wish she would've gotten that. As it is, it feels like this brand is going nowhere.

 

[MulletProof]

nice to see burberry really stepping it up this season.

 

[jeanclaude]

In all honesty, I think she'd be stuck between a rock and a hard place no matter what she did. I mean, how do you follow-up McQueen?

Of course this is Impossible Mission...but you can tell she is not even trying! It´s like she wants to forget about Alexander, like pretending he never existed.

 

[Marc10]

Of course this is Impossible Mission...but you can tell she is not even trying! It´s like she wants to forget about Alexander, like pretending he never existed.

I'm sorry but this is really not true. I mean if she had changed the name, the logo, had done countless changes and had gone on a completely different aesthetic direction like a lot of designers have done when they take charge of a brand I would understand, but to me Sarah has been absolutely respectful of Lee since she began here. This is not her best collection (also not her wost), but I much rather having her doing respectful, beautifully well crafted clothes than someone pretentious thinking they can follow up to McQueen's genius, which in my opinion no one in this lifetime will be able to.

 

[jeanclaude]

I'm sorry but this is really not true. I mean if she had changed the name, the logo, had done countless changes and had gone on a completely different aesthetic direction like a lot of designers have done when they take charge of a brand I would understand, but to me Sarah has been absolutely respectful of Lee since she began here. This is not her best collection (also not her wost), but I much rather having her doing respectful, beautifully well crafted clothes than someone pretentious thinking they can follow up to McQueen's genius, which in my opinion no one in this lifetime will be able to.

She just makes pretty dresses. McQueen didn´t like pretty. So I cannot see how she is being respectful when he hated pretty dresses...and that´s all she is making.
She is just making what she likes.

He was dark, edgy, macabre, avant-garde...and although he is irreplaceable, Sarah doesn´t even try to keep on with his vocabulary (and much less adding new elements to it).

So no, she is not even trying.

 

[dfl-001]

Doesn't look like McQueen at all. A couple of the jackets and knit pieces are nice enough, but not McQueen.

 

[Marc10]

She just makes pretty dresses. McQueen didn´t like pretty. So I cannot see how she is being respectful when he hated pretty dresses...and that´s all she is making.
She is just making what she likes.

He was dark, edgy, macabre, avant-garde...and although he is irreplaceable, Sarah doesn´t even try to keep on with his vocabulary (and much less adding new elements to it).

So no, she is not even trying.

Well she's the designer, so of course she's doing what she likes. And McQueen wasn't always dark, tortured and avant-garde, a huge part of of his career, and some of the most memorable for me, was his extremely romantic, feminine and yes, pretty side. That's the side Sarah has tapped into in her collections, so it's not foreign at all to his vocabulary. She doesn't have his edge and depth, absolutely, but her work to me is very far from disrespectful.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Sarah Burton is insufferable. This kind of fashion is just totally depressing and feels like an absolute waste. She's a decorator. McQueen was an architect. Not only that, her taste level is so pedestrian. I've said it before in her McQueen threads here...her concept to inject trademark Lee "darkness" into her pretty, pretty princess romance is always to just pair her merengue dresses with a chunky black leather boot or to throw in a black leather jacket abruptly halfway through the collection. It's so incongruous and so unsophisticated. McQueen was so complex. This is as surface level as it gets.

Plus she seems to totally misunderstand the whole of McQueen...she seems to think it's all about "fantasy"...but I'd argue McQueen's work was almost entirely about "reality."

 

[Littleathquakes]

It's like she just latched on to the one element of McQueen's past design - medieval, caged, tortured - and just copies it from season to season. McQueen had way more range than that.

However, I do think these clothes stand on their own. They're a lot more interesting and prettier than some of the other stuff coming down the runways this season.