Alexander McQueen S/S 2018 Paris

[AnaD]

I feel as if McQueen has a case of the 'Balmain Syndrome'- showing the same thing every season with a little colour variety.

This is so vapid and inspiring that it hurts. It's so sad that this has happened to McQueen.

 

[dodencebt]

I don't have much to add to the "boring, repetitive" critique because I agree with it all. I did want to point out how unflattering some of this is though. For example, the red and pink dresses that outline the breasts make the models look extremely busty and uncomfortable and the tailoring on Micu and Brannon gives them Frankenstein's monster shoulders in the worst possible way. For comparison, Lee used to make molded dresses (Fall '99, Spring '05) and exaggerated suits which in theory are too tricky to work, and yet they looked like they were meant to happen and you wouldn't want it any other way.

Not comparing Sarah to Lee, clearly - he was one and only and there will never be another McQueen. But I just felt like pointing out how sad it makes me to see that most of today's designers, including Sarah, are satisfied with this mediocrity they send down the runway and don't seem to chase the unattainable - which, in my opinion, is the only way to create that memorable something. It's like there is no passion to it, and it shows in the smallest, most banal things like the wrong shoulder pad or an off fit.

 

[Nomar]

Honestly, I think this is one of her best collections to date. It's so so beautiful and dreamy as always, they all look like works of art. I really love the tailoring here as well. Absolutely amazing makeup and hair, it gives what is a very feminine collection a bit of a sinister undertone.

Yes, this might not be something that Lee would have done but I think Sara has carved a wonderful style and identity for herself at McQueen.

 

[gazebo]

I disliked her work since the get go, to say the least.
She completely killed the spirit of the house - she is SO safe and that is the last thing McQueen was. Pretty ruffles and exquisite detail is not it. McQueen was beautiful and macabre and provocative, and always but always had a statement. She never had a statement or anything to say. Time to let her go.

 

[Lola701]

What? Giles Deacon still don't have the McQueen job? So, i'm not interested... NEXT!

Another annoying collection from an annoying creative director. She should just put her commercial collections on the runway because all that messy stuff doesn't add anything to the fashion conversation. i'm sure she thinks that she is pushing fashion forward but she doesn't actually.

Nobody need this, nobody wants this. This is irrelevant as she doesn't have any idea of the woman she is creating this clothes for. That's the missing link!

 

[jeanclaude]

Well she's the designer, so of course she's doing what she likes. And McQueen wasn't always dark, tortured and avant-garde, a huge part of of his career, and some of the most memorable for me, was his extremely romantic, feminine and yes, pretty side. That's the side Sarah has tapped into in her collections, so it's not foreign at all to his vocabulary. She doesn't have his edge and depth, absolutely, but her work to me is very far from disrespectful.

The designer can make what she likes when her name is on the tags...but don´t forget that´s Alexander name on the tags.

And even when Alexander turned romantic and femenine it wasn´t pretty for the sake of being pretty. It was dramatic and somehow tortured. It was eerie beauty.

I think Sarah is the same case of Bill Gaytten: right hands of very talented designers who were put on charge of their respective brands just because they were the right hands of those designers.
But management forgot that working with a talent designer doesn´t make you talented as well...

 

[Scotty]

Why does she always have the chunky shoes in her collections?

 

[Not Plain Jane]

the final few dresses with the deconstructed corsets and the 3-d floral embroideries are just beautiful. how i'd love to see these on the red carpet!

as for the rest, she's brilliant with ruffles but she needs to remember the structure and tailoring that so many devotees of this brand adored. bring back the tighter classic cut and go from there. leave the ruffle for a while okay?

thanks