McQueen, Eclectic and Exhilarating
June 28, 2004 - Milan
If the mark of a great designer is the ability to throw a score of influences and ideas into one collection and yet still make lots of sense, then the debut catwalk menswear collection from Alexander McQueen screamed out that his place in the Pantheon of great fashion talents is a certainty.
Beginning with the Africa Corp meets Lawrence of Arabia, ending with Stars Wars re-shot in Udaipur and in-between incorporating images of performance art, Savile Row tailoring and Atlas Mountain Bluemen, the show could easily of been a weird mish mash of clashing cultures. Instead in the silky sure hands of McQueen the collection presented Monday in Milan was a triumphant display of craftsmanship, cutting and commercialism.
At times it was improbable, even absurd: it was hard to make work out how, or where, any man would wear overalls in light gray suede or bright yellow silk, especially with leather harnesses, in the heat of the summer. Particularly today in Milan, where temperatures climbed to 35 Celsius. But, this quibble aside, the collection was packed with real hits, from the corporals caps worn on most models’ heads to the brilliant footwear. We predict major demand for his two-tone leather sneaker/brogues with tassels, or super flip flops with wingtip details.
Yet the heart of the collection was the slim, shiny suits, precisely cut to the body, yet clearly easy to wear, and finished with just the right of trimming. Plus, any garment Lee played around with came out fresh and new, from the hooded raincoat in pink and ecru plaid or the fantastic leather lounge pants with knit waistband.
McQueen has always had strong rock-n-roll following and there was plenty for major concert tours in this show, either patchwork camouflage frock coats worn with Indian Raj puttee pants or exotic silk shirts with military lapels and shoulder straps.
The show did jar a little as it jumped around from the sublime to the classical, but any time it threatened to get formulaic, Lee shocked us with a glaring image, like the lean, handsome young model whose head was covered in blue chalk.
In short, someone is going to have to create something pretty exceptional to deny McQueen the claim of creating the best European men’s show this season. He just set the bar very high.