Alexander McQueen Uomo SS 2005

[Spike413]

Originally posted by ultramarine+Jun 30th, 2004 - 2:07 am--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (ultramarine @ Jun 30th, 2004 - 2:07 am)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-Spike413@Jun 30th, 2004 - 2:02 am
I'd like to see him really show off his Savile Row training in imbeccably cut suits that  have the usual McQueen twist and while he did show that in some looks, I just didn't like how it turned out.

Savile Row training and cutting was seen from him on his first menswear collections ... you may enjoy to get a look at his archives (firstview.com).
I'll have to admit that in a way it's a bit unexpected -and I relate/understand where you're coming from-, but I like the outcome ... what I want in menswear is quite simple "No more of the same sh*t".
And to me, Lee delivered. [/b][/quote]
Actually, from what I saw of last season's men's it was a bit.....boring. If he could somehow blend last season and this season, I'd definitly like it.

 

[runner]

Originally posted by Lena+Jun 30th, 2004 - 1:38 am--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Lena @ Jun 30th, 2004 - 1:38 am)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-Foxie-Pooh@Jun 30th, 2004 - 5:15 am
The painted powdery look is VERY Galliano s/s 2003 with the theme of Indian wedding !!!Galliano S/S 2003

there are so many designers that did the body paint before McQueen AND before Dior, its beyond the point to list them all really

its not like Galliano discovered body paint on catwalk, Viktor and Rolf had done it before Dior [/b][/quote]
just reminded me of Under Cover S/S 99

 

[ignitioned32]

The Review: Alexander McQueen Menswear Spring/Summer 2004

This definetly can be labeled 'Trip to South Asia', in the same way Prada's Spring 2004 Women's collection was dubbed 'Roman Holiday'. It's quite clear Lee referenced cultural looks from India, Nepal and the likes.

The good points were, one, the tailoring (which is a given now since we all know he trained under Saville Row). The second was the styling like the pairing of a hooded tank-top with silver shorts or a blazer with semi-genie capris. That was cool. I liked the loose suits. That definetly is chic ne plus ultra in New Delhi.

Mod young Maharaja chic:

Pattern he usually does in his women's collections:

... and alot of miscallaneous items such as shirts and pants.


The bad points were it seemed he was trying to be different for the sake of it. I mean take for example the body paint. We all know it's nothing new and it did not start with Galliano, but what was the point of it here? In Galliano's collection it was for exuberance and for 'upliftment', but here it was just to look different-to remain his 'status' or 'rep'. The plaid pattern I liked, but did not like how he decided to show it. Why, because it wasn't like he was backing it up with a vision to push it forward (because let's face it that isn't something men would wear), but because it's something he normally does (i.e his SS '03 women's collection). And lastly looks 30 to 36.

Trying to be different:

 

[ignitioned32]

Excuses for making assumptions on the collection without seeing it fully. Thanks to whoever posted the vogue.co.uk link.

On the issue of McQueen being overrated, I do think he is a real good designer, but is being overrated a little bit too much. If you want me to explain this further let's wait for a McQueen thread (Don't wanna be OT here).

So on this collection, overall good, flawed.

 

[Lena]

I mean take for example the body paint. We all know it's nothing new and it did not start with Galliano, but what was the point of it here?

that's true, attracting attention through 'theatrics' seems totaly transformed to a dangerously oldfashioned trap, but wait, he's not the only one turning to theatrics for attention.. if only, the virus still holds strong, it just seems too 'tired' this is ss05, let go, get fresh.

 

[Spike413]

At least when he, in his women's collections, or others like Galliano use theatrics it coincides with the theme of the collection.......what did the body paint have to do with vintage military and Asian/Middle Eastern cultures?

 

[ultramarine]

Originally posted by Lena@Jun 30th, 2004 - 3:38 am

I mean take for example the body paint. We all know it's nothing new and it did not start with Galliano, but what was the point of it here?

that's true, attracting attention through 'theatrics' seems totaly transformed to a dangerously oldfashioned trap, but wait, he's not the only one turning to theatrics for attention.. if only, the virus still holds strong, it just seems too 'tired' this is ss05, let go, get fresh.

Hum ...actually I applaud the use of make-up on menswear either for show or whatever ... Menwear collections are always showcased in the same way and you may see the same pieces/collections on and on a never-ending repetition.
It may seem as cheap teatrics or just some way to get some Wows!
But ... In some aspects it actually benefited the pieces ...for example in the pic portrayed below this lines ..would you able to judge the poncho the same way if the model wasn't painted?

On top of it ... Lee plays on very interesting manners and I like how he juggles with perceptions ...for example, for his FW '04 collection he took the dress -feminine- but toughen it up by cutting them as -asian- warrior armours. On this season, for menswear ... he's using the masculine principle -soldier- and inject romance using textures and colors ... soften it.
At least this is how I view it ... I dunno .. I may speak jibberish!

 

[Lena]

i think you should interview mr McQueen to get the answer spike ,
it may mean 'race' 'blood' 'atmosphere' 'the Other' anything really..
its quite conceptual

 

[Mr-Dale]

Originally posted by nqth@Jun 28th, 2004 - 2:22 pm
And

That bag is on my wanted list!

 

[Lena]

i need this bag

 

[faust]

Originally posted by Scott+Jun 29th, 2004 - 8:02 pm--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Scott @ Jun 29th, 2004 - 8:02 pm)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-ignitioned32@Jun 29th, 2004 - 7:42 am
I am alone in my appraisal. I am the only one who thinks McQueen is terribly overrated.

Overrated? Not too much. I think he gets what he deserves as far as the recognition and the praise. This collection,though,I'm not seeing any of his talent except for the suits. The styling in this show is real crap,I think. It doesn't allow for me to see anything but spectacle...which is a shame. [/b][/quote]
2nd.

McQueen can not possibly be overrated. He is the most talented and creative designer today. While Galliano can not be forgiven for "trash and vaudeville" on the cat walk because he sells garbage in stores - what you see in stores for McQueen (as mikejaimes said) is really wonderful, creatvie and wearable (albeit being cut a bit too narrow). It takes much more of a true talent to make clothes that is very creative, yet very wearable.

 

[clay]

Wow, this is very interesting. I would love to see more also see some of the Indian inspired embriodery and prints put into his tailored stuff. Not over blown, I am a simple guy, little touches or the Henna/Paisley symetrical prints on suits could be intersting also. I actually would like to see more of the Indian stuff literally throughout, could be very commercial, therefore $$$$$$$. Which is what counts these days. Great job even
with the JPG, Galliano echos.

It would be nice to actually see how people in this thread would change this line----Any designers want to give it whirl : )

 

[Acid]

the only thing i liked was that 1 white/greyish jacket

apart from that..........i thought it was completely useless/pointless
i mean that gas mask look with the pink bodysuit was +

mcqueen is TOTALLY over rated

 

[Spike413]

Originally posted by Lena@Jun 30th, 2004 - 3:58 am
i think you should interview mr McQueen to get the answer spike ,
it may mean 'race' 'blood' 'atmosphere' 'the Other' anything really..
its quite conceptual

Oy, in that case, I'll just tolerate the paint and boil it down to that "Good old McQueen sense of fashion"

 

[saturnine]

Originally posted by mikeijames@Jun 28th, 2004 - 12:26 pm
very mcqueen but highly unwearable...should make for some interesting editorials though.

I agree.

 

[Plumour]

Originally posted by ultramarine@Jun 30th, 2004 - 2:00 am
The inspiration for this collection is EAST/WEST and he did it as a critique to the situation that's going on right away (that's why you see military men and some others wearing more eastern looks).
So you got it right!

but does he want his models to resemble terrorists?
putting aside the theme of this collection, the painted men are strongly looking like terrorists to me
am I the only one

 

[Mr-Dale]

The bodypaint was in Galliano's personal collection just to set that straight and about what mikeijames said about McQueen and Galliano reflecting the mood of the season: that is absolutely true! The big difference between the two though is that McQueen does it a more litteral manner, a manner of showing how the mood on the street will be. What Galliano does is exaggerate the mood and put it in his collection the way he sees it, not the mass of the streets. So they're similar but very different as well...

 

[Alliecat]

There are some very beautiful pieces - and the detail images are really lovely - quite inspirational

 

[MJCouture]

All in all I think this is actually a pretty strong collection, and I hate McQueen. However I don't like the makeup, and his attempts at trying to schock people (that ppink jumper thing) are getting old fast.

 

[PrinceOfCats]

Damnit! Where's Alejandro when you need him...that pink jumpsuit rocks! It's really quite wearable...

And the technical skills are amazing as well...