Nicolas Ghesquière's 'garden of delights' made for a futuristic-chic collection at Balenciaga.
BY
Hilary Alexander | 03 March 2011
Fantasy prints featuring lizards climbing trees and "hallucinatory" flowers, and a new, hip-slung, folded-petal skirt which covered the knees, were among the 'garden of delights' at Nicolas Ghesquière's futuristic-chic collection for Balenciaga, shown at the Paris prêt-à-porter season this morning.
Moving away from the hard-edged, neo-punk mood which predominated in his current spring/summer collection, Ghesquière followed a more gentle, but still adventurous line.
"We've still invested a lot in development, but on a larger scale," he said backstage after the show, staged, as has become a tradition, at The Crillon Hotel, and which included Orlando Bloom - in town to support his wife Miranda Kerr who modelled in the show - among the front-row guests.
Ghesquière called his new print, a multi-coloured dream-landcsape on white silk, "almost like a hallucination, like when you are a child and everything seems bigger than it is". "This fantasy approach is something which Cristobal Balenciaga himself used, so it felt right."
The print featured on the new folded drape-skirt with a semi-triangular hem, seen with dark, striped shimmering knits, on shirt-tunics and on slim trousers, zippered up the back of the ankles.
The key silhouette worked around a larger boxy top half, and a tapering lower half, with height added in the form of high-heeled, coloured snakeskin or black and white, multi-strapped sandals and ankle-boots. The look was particularly effective when a square-cut navy silk top was worn with one of the folded skirts in black, with flashes of metallic gold detail.
Although there were many of the 'noble' fabrics Ghesquière loves, there was an emphasis on 'fake', as in fake leather tabards and PU-look boxy jackets. Ingenious hand-knitting techniques were employed for voluminous, real-leather bombers and slim, rectangular clutch bags, where the hides had been stuffed to produce a more rounded effect. Other bags were also slim and rectangular, featuring opulent embossed metallic work on Spanish leather.
The hand-knitting techniques extended to lattice-work tabards, belted and layered over shocking pink, white or sequinned tunics, worn with silver and black, skinny trousers, as were navy foam-backed wool tunics with transparent tulle under-shirts.
Ghesquière also played with colour blocking, as in a black and white silk crepe tabard, with electric violet bands at the sides, and matching purple leggings.
Big blue eyes are obviously a key trend - whether fake or natural. Gareth Pugh used strange blue metallic 'eye guards' in his cyber sci-fi collection. And, although most of the models at Balenciaga looked completely makeup-free, some got the 'Blue Eye' treatment, in the form of swathes of bright shadow painted like a mask over eyes and brows.