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so surver I wouldn't say cdiem has simply become avantindietro because it's all new.
cdiem is past (to maurizio at this moment, you know how he is).
this new one includes the future as part of the concept.
it may has some echo of cdiem and all the previous lines to some extent,
but looks like it has totally evolved from them.
but it is still something inconclusive since it is supposed to be "the future".
as for all those names, drawing a coclusion first, no one knows which is the real brand name so far. probably even he doesn't know. stores are not sure at all because he still seems to sometimes call it intervallo, sometimes avantindietro, and sometimes avantiero or something.
anyway it's just that most people think of it as avantindietro vaguely at present.
it's funny.
I'll write how it's like later.
I guess brand name doesn't matter so much here.
actuall from fattoamano they started to use no label saying the name anywhere, which was early in 2005.
btw, the first time he said the word avantindietro was also 2005, right after the presentation of fattoamano.
but as you know, he had the dark days afterwards. 06 was a year with stories.
although they had been chaotic, it looked extremely chaotic in 06. and avantindietro was to drag on into this time.
last fall he suddenly canceled the showing for cdiem, and instead presented a new collection without any samples called intervallo. most of the stores who had carried cdiem were too scared to order it, or it was too ridiculous to be ordered.
but a few actually bought it, and when it arrived in the spring, it was labeled cdiem.
so the last cdiem (as of now) was what was ordered as intervallo.
sort of clean and smoothened stuff in comparison with cdiem.
in the spring of this year, he held a little presentation for it, reserving a suite at the hotel in paris, because he sold off the garage and failed to find any better space.
he tried to prepare samples this time, but most of them were not finished in time.
therefore those unfinished pieces in # 409, 410. at this point there was a word avantindietro as well as intervallo written on an official form.
then maybe he just wanted to show the finished or nearly perfect ones to the buyers so much that he tried to visit paris during S/S 08 mens fashion week and catch them in.
but as per usual he was a bit late and missed some of them.
plus he tried to find some ideal place only to fail again, and managed to show it in a waterside open space.
he might be the first designer who was there for showing the pieces to be delivered coming fall during spring mens fashion week (strictly speaking there is no season about this collection, but practically there is a contract with some stores to deliver it within a certain period. if it's not carried out, he has to pay a penalty).
there seems to have been a lot of toing and froing that way before making it, and he was running late. he had to contact them by cellphone on the spot and do it at such a place not because he was pretentious but because he is impulsive enough to go there with the place to show it not fixed, I think.
this is when stores started to think it looks like it will be avantindietro.
and this fall he came over to paris again carrying those pieces (along with some new ones) for the final showing of them which are supposed to be delivered within the year.
it's like that.
the shortage of staff members has been telling on him. not only those creative staffs but also competent ones on management side left the company. one of them is a manager at leclaireur now, etc.
but in regard to the difficulty with the production, his insatiable nature might be one of the factors which are leading to it. maybe he is just letting his cogitation grow freely even while something is already going into production. and at some stage often lets it have priority and makes a fresh start.
actually some people has tried to exploit him. but they wound up getting their fingers burnt because he is impulsive and once he has an inspiration he casts himself on it, instead of on business commitment. hope he doesn't have any lawsuits.
also to stores he might be a bit too honest with creative activity to deal with.
sometimes he doesn't deliver what stores ordered. it's okay because what they saw a half year back were no more than samples. they know there can be changes. but he changes it too drastically, to such an extent that it looks like something different. then they cancel and return it to him. I think he can imagine what that can cause to him. but he does it somehow.
also stores know what sells. but he doesn't listen to them, although, frankly, of his pieces what sell constantly at retail are very limited.
it's not too much to say that some of the offshoot labels were made, according with the demands of them. they needed something like cdiem that listen to them that are more stable. of course it's not a bad thing at all. stores' voice can really be customers' voice sometimes. it's great in its own way.
but here I just want to see such universal worth as comes only from utter personal point of view, even if it happens only occasionally, through countless errors,
since I know it is truly exciting.
cdiem is past (to maurizio at this moment, you know how he is).
this new one includes the future as part of the concept.
it may has some echo of cdiem and all the previous lines to some extent,
but looks like it has totally evolved from them.
but it is still something inconclusive since it is supposed to be "the future".
as for all those names, drawing a coclusion first, no one knows which is the real brand name so far. probably even he doesn't know. stores are not sure at all because he still seems to sometimes call it intervallo, sometimes avantindietro, and sometimes avantiero or something.
anyway it's just that most people think of it as avantindietro vaguely at present.
it's funny.
I'll write how it's like later.
I guess brand name doesn't matter so much here.
actuall from fattoamano they started to use no label saying the name anywhere, which was early in 2005.
btw, the first time he said the word avantindietro was also 2005, right after the presentation of fattoamano.
but as you know, he had the dark days afterwards. 06 was a year with stories.
although they had been chaotic, it looked extremely chaotic in 06. and avantindietro was to drag on into this time.
last fall he suddenly canceled the showing for cdiem, and instead presented a new collection without any samples called intervallo. most of the stores who had carried cdiem were too scared to order it, or it was too ridiculous to be ordered.
but a few actually bought it, and when it arrived in the spring, it was labeled cdiem.
so the last cdiem (as of now) was what was ordered as intervallo.
sort of clean and smoothened stuff in comparison with cdiem.
in the spring of this year, he held a little presentation for it, reserving a suite at the hotel in paris, because he sold off the garage and failed to find any better space.
he tried to prepare samples this time, but most of them were not finished in time.
therefore those unfinished pieces in # 409, 410. at this point there was a word avantindietro as well as intervallo written on an official form.
then maybe he just wanted to show the finished or nearly perfect ones to the buyers so much that he tried to visit paris during S/S 08 mens fashion week and catch them in.
but as per usual he was a bit late and missed some of them.
plus he tried to find some ideal place only to fail again, and managed to show it in a waterside open space.
he might be the first designer who was there for showing the pieces to be delivered coming fall during spring mens fashion week (strictly speaking there is no season about this collection, but practically there is a contract with some stores to deliver it within a certain period. if it's not carried out, he has to pay a penalty).
there seems to have been a lot of toing and froing that way before making it, and he was running late. he had to contact them by cellphone on the spot and do it at such a place not because he was pretentious but because he is impulsive enough to go there with the place to show it not fixed, I think.
this is when stores started to think it looks like it will be avantindietro.
and this fall he came over to paris again carrying those pieces (along with some new ones) for the final showing of them which are supposed to be delivered within the year.
it's like that.
the shortage of staff members has been telling on him. not only those creative staffs but also competent ones on management side left the company. one of them is a manager at leclaireur now, etc.
but in regard to the difficulty with the production, his insatiable nature might be one of the factors which are leading to it. maybe he is just letting his cogitation grow freely even while something is already going into production. and at some stage often lets it have priority and makes a fresh start.
actually some people has tried to exploit him. but they wound up getting their fingers burnt because he is impulsive and once he has an inspiration he casts himself on it, instead of on business commitment. hope he doesn't have any lawsuits.
also to stores he might be a bit too honest with creative activity to deal with.
sometimes he doesn't deliver what stores ordered. it's okay because what they saw a half year back were no more than samples. they know there can be changes. but he changes it too drastically, to such an extent that it looks like something different. then they cancel and return it to him. I think he can imagine what that can cause to him. but he does it somehow.
also stores know what sells. but he doesn't listen to them, although, frankly, of his pieces what sell constantly at retail are very limited.
it's not too much to say that some of the offshoot labels were made, according with the demands of them. they needed something like cdiem that listen to them that are more stable. of course it's not a bad thing at all. stores' voice can really be customers' voice sometimes. it's great in its own way.
but here I just want to see such universal worth as comes only from utter personal point of view, even if it happens only occasionally, through countless errors,
since I know it is truly exciting.
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