Continues Family of Brands-Carpe Diem, Linea, etc...

[softgrey]

you're welcome softgrey
the collection in #457 is SL by sara lanzi. the one whose speaking I had you translate once.
she used to do a line called geometric etc under the umbrella of maurizio.
but SL is her brand from her own company though she seems to be still in perusia.
the dream team is no more, all of them left him and are active independently and successfully. and he is doing almost alone, therefore it is more unstable than usual.
this year he already cancelled two events which had been under way.
anyway posting SL in this thread should have been confusing and wrong, sorry. I will post things related to him only.
is it possible to move the posts #448 and #457 to a new thread for SL sara lanzi?

OK....
i was confused ...you were right...
( i remember the interview, i just didn't see the writing at the beginning of the pics)
but i knew there was something different about the women's clothing...
it just didn't look like maurizio's work...


i've moved the SL posts and given Sara Lanzi her own thread...
http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/f60/sl-sara-lanzi-71732.html

thanks for clarifying...

 

[runner]

thank you softgrey!

 

[runner]

once there was a project called sartoria outdoor.
it's a travelling atelier.
that is, amadei and issei came to your city from paris X18 to re-present facilities for sartoria and unfold the storyboard.


sartoria one-piece
courtesy 1+1=3

 

[luckyme]

is anyone familiar with the season these came from? listed as carpe diem on yoox.com

thanks in advance

 

[runner]

hard to see the details, materials from those pics,
but the jacket could be work of 2005 or 2006.

the coat, 2004 (or 2003) I think

 

[luckyme]

thanks runner. both are wool. I'll get better pics when they arrive. very timely though, I was looking for a winter coat (and I love long slits in the back) and black wool jacket.

 

[runner]

oh that's great! then the answer will be on the tag.

 

[softgrey]

that sartoria one piece is ......WOW!!!...

lucky...if you've never tried the stuff on...
it runs VERY narrow and straight...
the long coats are basically impossible for me...( or anyone who has hips)...
might work on you though...
would love to know how it turns out...

 

[luckyme]

thanks soft and runner...I have a feeling that it sadly might be too small (size 2) for me but it was such an interesting coat I thought it was worth a try since yoox was practially giving it away.

 

[surver]

all these c diem off-shoots sharing the same lineage are getting confusing... can someone please clarify and give a big picture/list? and where each is based? what i can gather so far are:

avantindietro maurizio altieri
m.a+ maurizio amadei
label under construction luca laurini
FQR (the least c diem-esque; more 'french connection/h&m ie mass market than c diem)
SL sara lanzi
lumen et umbra issei fujita
individual sentiments hiroko itoo
augusta simone cechetto
wjk jun hashimoto (not sure if this is legitimate anymore since jun's left wjk)

 

[runner]

nice to hear the coat has a great home now lucky
C01 is the code: coat,style 01.
that production line was active from 2002-2005.
I guess from the way it closes it's 2004.

there is a possibility of the jkt being one-off as a prototype/sample, if what I'm thinking of is not the same as yours.
otherwise it went into production for F/W 05 at least.



surver it's yoko ito that does individualsentiments.

 

[surver]

thanks runner. any additions? clarifications? interested in hearing your views re all this

 

[Mia S-M]

it looks old but i actually liked it

 

[runner]

the list seems already very nice.
there are a few more that could be added there, which would only make it more confusing.
we would be so full.
from the discussion on the previous page, it looks like it's best to keep it simple.
it might be adequate to happen to know the designer is an ex-XXX after you got to be interested in its work.
designers cannot any more lean on a halo from their former haunts.
it depends on what they are going to do after the departure.
and I'd say not all of them are suspected of complicity with maurizio in the core project.

 

[Inaya]

I agree runner... it is informative enough

 

[surver]

seems to be a trend somehow - while the 'spiritual' leader goes under the radar, all ex-collaborators go independent, make noise and do quite well... obvious in the case w/ altieri... another example being hedi slimane vs kris van assche, lucas ossendrijver, nicolas andreas taralis... i've always been interested in lineages...

perhaps a smarter move (then again, it takes a different cultural background to think like that, i believe) are the paths rei & issey take - by sponsoring and enabling talented collaborators to establish their own 'brands', albeit under the greater umbrella of the original... a win-win situation where the original brands grows bigger and the individual (sub)brands can work off each other as well as the mother brand as to resolve/avoid the usual lack of financial and support resources... that's really building a 'family'...

i really don't see the current big corporation take-over culture of those such as LVMH/Gucci/Prada lasting very long... alarms going off in the latter 2 already...

 

[surver]

to all you c diem experts out there,

can you please advice what's the best way to clean the c diem leather shirts? is it advisable to directly wash it in cold water in the machine? or should i have it dry-cleaned? if so... what chemicals/whatnot should i avoid?

that's the problem with having white leather shirts... sigh...

thanks

 

[runner]

basically I would not wash it.
I'd attribute transience to the white and get it after making sure that I will enjoy it when it becomes dirty white and make it look good in its own way.
(btw, he also did the color called dirty white officially)
I don't know, but I have a feeling that the white will get shower cloudy to some extent if you wash it,
even though the stains come out.

but if you must wash it, it's better not to use any detergent which is powdery, because the particles could damage it in a crucial way (cut it for example).
I wouldn't have it drycleaned.
they used to actually use the word "washable" for a certain calf leather that was thicker and a bit more supple or a bit more sort of moisturized,
which was stopped at some point. and then it was called washed calf leather. it was somewhat thinner and felt dry.
so some of those shirts may not be so good at being washed by you. be careful.
in either case, it will shrink and harden more or less in the wash.
if you want it to stand as still as possible, leave it to the specialists who do some special water wash where they use microscopic air bubbles etc and proper after-treatments.
I guess that is the best way.



for reference

genuine calf leather
(washable by hand or machine)
leather obtained from excellent european white mantled calves, chrome tanned and dyed with pure aniline colorings in italy.
a special treatment renders it washable by hand or machine. wash at 30°centigrade maximum using a neutral soap. dry in the open, do not expose to direct heat.
it is characterized by a unique hand and by an intentionally creased look.
maximum expression of carpe diem research.

 

[chicgarcon]

another question for all the c diem experts...

hello all, does anyone know the smallest size carpe diem boots come in? i wear a 39.5 in mens do they run in that size?

thanks!

 

[surver]

basically I would not wash it.
I'd attribute transience to the white and get it after making sure that I will enjoy it when it becomes dirty white and make it look good in its own way.
(btw, he also did the color called dirty white officially)
I don't know, but I have a feeling that the white will get shower cloudy to some extent if you wash it,
even though the stains come out.

but if you must wash it, it's better not to use any detergent which is powdery, because the particles could damage it in a crucial way (cut it for example).
I wouldn't have it drycleaned.
they used to actually use the word "washable" for a certain calf leather that was thicker and a bit more supple or a bit more sort of moisturized,
which was stopped at some point. and then it was called washed calf leather. it was somewhat thinner and felt dry.
so some of those shirts may not be so good at being washed by you. be careful.
in either case, it will shrink and harden more or less in the wash.
if you want it to stand as still as possible, leave it to the specialists who do some special water wash where they use microscopic air bubbles etc and proper after-treatments.
I guess that is the best way.



for reference

THANKS ALOT runner! you're always the best go-to for all things c diem-esque. helped alot... will make sure when i bring to wash... i would rather not wash the white shirt... but it's got these very annoying stains on the back and sleeves that stand out too much... sigh... gotta take my chances i guess.

thanks again for your very very helpful and indepth reply