Designer & Fashion Insiders Behavior (PLEASE READ POST #1 BEFORE POSTING) | Page 95 | the Fashion Spot

Designer & Fashion Insiders Behavior (PLEASE READ POST #1 BEFORE POSTING)

There seems to be no end in sight for this story.....

Via The Guardian:

Teen Vogue photographer says Condé Nast doesn't value Asian community

Yu Tsai condemns magazine publisher for offering editor’s role to Alexi McCammond, who then resigned over racist tweets
Priya Elan
Mon 22 Mar 2021 15.37 GMT

A Teen Vogue photographer has said the hiring and swift axing of editor-in-chief Alexi McCammond over anti-Asian tweets shows Condé Nast does not “value” its Asian staff members.

McCammond apologised for comments she tweeted in 2011 and which had been reported before. Condé Nast announced last week that she would no longer start in the job on Wednesday as planned.

“Condé Nast knew about these tweets but they still offered the job to McCammond,” said Yu Tsai, a photographer who has worked for the magazine. “This tells me that [they] didn’t value their Asian community.

“I think Condé Nast must have thought the Asian community would remain silent about this matter. [But] our community will not take social injustice and racism silently.”

In 2019, McCammond was named emerging journalist of the year by the National Association of Black Journalists. When her appointment at Teen Vogue was announced earlier this month, Anna Wintour, Vogue’s global editorial director, said: “Alexi has the powerful curiosity and confidence that embodies the best of our generation of leaders.”

It seemed a step forward for a publisher which had endured a difficult year since the killing of George Floyd in Minneapolis last May touched off global protests for racial equality.

In June, a Wintour apology to black creatives for not giving them enough space in Vogue met with widespread derision. Beverly Johnson, the first black model to appear on the magazine’s cover, in 1974, commented: “Wow – after three decades, fashion’s leading arbiter has finally acknowledged that there may be a problem!”

Magazine covers featuring women of colour – Viola Davis for Vanity Fair and Simone Biles and Kamala Harris for Vogue – were criticised for alleged colourism and bad lighting of dark skin. Wintour apologised for the Harris cover, saying: “It was not our intention to … diminish the importance of [her] victory.”

Elsewhere, Bon Appetite’s editor-in-chief, Adam Rapoport, stepped down in June after a “brownface” photo resurfaced. The magazine apologised for the “horrific” photo and promised: “Things are going to change.”

Some observers suggested structural racism at Condé Nast meant people of colour were not in positions of power to prevent such repeated embarrassments. Johnson suggested the imposition of a “Beverly Johnson rule”, making it mandatory that black people be interviewed for significant positions. McCammond, from the politics website Axios, seemed to offer a highly visible step towards such change.

But her tweets from 2011 resurfaced in response to news of her appointment. In an open letter, 20 Teen Vogue staffers said: “In a moment of historically high anti-Asian violence … we as the staff of Teen Vogue fully reject [McCammond]’s sentiments.”

Advertisers including Ulta Beauty and Burt’s Bees halted campaigns as a result of the tweets. After the Atlanta spa shootings, in which six Asian women were among eight people killed, McCammond handed in her notice.

“McCammond’s actions contributed to the hate that we are facing today with the Asian community,” Tsai said.

Randi Bryant, a diversity and inclusivity consultant, said McCammond’s multiple apologies did not absolve her.

“There are some things people find difficult to forgive,” she said. “Forgiveness is about trust: do you trust this person is sincere in their apology and will not hurt you in the same way again?”

Bryant also said McCammond’s own ethnicity may have affected the reaction to her tweets.

“Racism is about power,” she said, “since minorities do not make policies or possess most of the power in the country, people may not react as strongly when a minority expresses prejudice.”

Bryant said McCammond’s appointment and resignation should not be treated as an isolated incident.

“As a country we are reactive to racism instead of proactively addressing it,” she said. “We become outraged after high-profile killing, demand change, then revert back to acting as though racism isn’t a problem.”

Condé Nast did not immediately respond to a request for comment.
 
Aren't the Editors in Chiefs supposed to reflect the designated reader demographic?

I always wondered how and why Anna Wintour stays on at American Vogue since she is a British woman and seems very distant from knowing American culture and diversity. Do the other international editions of Vogues tend to have an Editor in Chief who is foreign from the designated nation/culture?
 
Aren't the Editors in Chiefs supposed to reflect the designated reader demographic?

I always wondered how and why Anna Wintour stays on at American Vogue since she is a British woman and seems very distant from knowing American culture and diversity. Do the other international editions of Vogues tend to have an Editor in Chief who is foreign from the designated nation/culture?

Anna had lived in New York in the 80's working for House & Garden and had a 2-year stint at British Vogue before taking helm of American Vogue in 1988...so she's had plenty of time living in American to have figured out American culture, but to your respect it's still surprising how till this day she's not really 'with it' when it comes to culture and diversity, but this was a big issue with previous editors who were American.

Vogue has had many international EIC! Anna Della Russo for Vogue Japan.

Joan Juliet Buck was an American EIC for VP in the 90's

Manuel Arnaut of Vogue Arabia is Portuguese.
 
I always wondered how and why Anna Wintour stays on at American Vogue since she is a British woman and seems very distant from knowing American culture and diversity. Do the other international editions of Vogues tend to have an Editor in Chief who is foreign from the designated nation/culture?

She has mix origin. Her father was British, mother was American but she prefers emphasize her British roots because according to her sound better for her image.
 
Well she's an Editor-of-SOMETHING! OK?!? lol crazy how I got that confused :P:lol:

Your mistake is an acceptable one because Anna Dello Russo shoves herself into the limelight so often that you'd think she is the EIC of Vogue Japan. I don't think I'd be able to ID Mitsuko because she seems super private.

TheBluerider makes an interesting point, and it seems that American magazines are more open to foreign editors. They've had many UK exports... Tilberis and Glenda at Bazaar, Joanna Coles at Cosmo, Samantha Barry at Glamour, not to mention Laura Brown via Australia at InStyle, and Tonchi at W.

I recall when Alexandra left UK Vogue the thought didn't even cross my mind that they may hire a non-British editor, because I knew it would never happen. It's simply not done and the tabloids will make a big fuss about it. But ultimately an editor, foreign or not, must reflect the culture of the country they find themselves in. That's probably twice as important in the UK than elsewhere.

To be fair, there is a Britishness to American Vogue that's interesting to see at times because it's a different, almost slightly more glamorous Britishness. But otherwise, I think she (Anna Wintour) is able to attune her magazine to American sensibilities. I think, of course, I don't know.

The most mindfck EIC hires for me are still the openly gay Manuel Arnaut at Vogue Arabia and JJB's stint at Vogue Paris.
 
^^^ The ME may be absolutely medieval with their human rights standing for the masses (crucification of criminals still being practiced).. However, for those in more affluent positions, being gay is not an immediate death sentence (privilege and wealth being mainstay of preferential treatment). As long as one’s not practicing weekly gay rights protests on the streets and flaunting PDA publicly, gays can easily get accustomed to a life in a gilded cage.
 
^^^ The ME may be absolutely medieval with their human rights standing for the masses (crucification of criminals still being practiced).. However, for those in more affluent positions, being gay is not an immediate death sentence (privilege and wealth being mainstay of preferential treatment). As long as one’s not practicing weekly gay rights protests on the streets and flaunting PDA publicly, gays can easily get accustomed to a life in a gilded cage.

That's exactly what I meant. I'm not 'amazed' like so many that the ME is seemingly so liberal now that they would allow a gay Vogue editor to cater to their readers. It's more that I wouldn't be able to, in a personal capacity, reconcile enriching and empowering a system that essentially regards my lifestyle as an abomination. And probably still punish my kind with public lashings and humiliation.

But apparently, he has been working in that market for some time before Vogue launched and so I suppose he's fully accustomed to the 'gilded cage' syndrome by now. It's of course his choice to do as he wishes, but yeah, no.
 
^^^ Yes, with all respect to your personal and core integrity and values, we gays need to pick our battles wisely. By infiltrating from within— and in many conservative cultures, it’s the only way to influence their laws, and if only it's just their general societal attitudes towards us, it's a step forward. Look at China/Hong Kong that once were so strictly dismissive of gays. However, with GQ China openly and on a regular basis, showcasing very effeminate-- even gay imagery of men, their public is beginning to become more accepting of some aspects of gays. And this sort of progression is something that was/is initiated from the privileged inner sectors of those working in the rarefied atmosphere of the fashion industry. Manuel may open up someone who’s extremely conservative, and in the process, begin to work with another openly gay professional. It has to start somewhere.
 
^ I feel basically the same way as Benn as a woman. I have experienced fundamentalism here and it was bad enough. I'm out of the frying pan now and there's no coaxing me back in!
 
More sleepless nights for Tisci, this was the last thing he needed right now.....

Via Jing Daily:

Burberry & Nike Next to Face China Backlash
burberry-earnings-1240x698.png

Luxury brand shares are tumbling, and droves of Chinese ambassadors are breaking contracts with fashion brands as the cotton crisis wears on.

What Happened: The backlash over international brands’ positions on Xinjiang cotton has escalated in China and is showing little sign of abating. Burberry is next, as Tencent has halted its Honor of Kings partnership with Burberry (the brand recently released two new skins exclusively for the video game’s players in China). In addition, brand ambassadors Zhou Dongyu and Song Weilong announced they would no longer work with the luxury company.

In fact, the cotton crisis has sparked a domino effect of Chinese celebrities quitting their contracts with members of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), despite the penalties incurred. Li Xian, Yang Yang, and Liu Haoran have all ended their collaborations with Puma; Ni Ni and Roy Wang Yuan have quit a partnership with Uniqlo; Li Zhenning and William Chan have exited Tommy Hilfiger; Wendy Zhang Zifeng has distanced from New Balance; and Calvin Klein is now without Liu Yuxin and Greg Hsu. Adidas, too, has suffered some big hits: Eason Chan, Angelababy, Jackson Yee, and others have all left their posts.

Nike is also suffering the losses of its Chinese idol, Wang Yibo, and contracts with national and regional soccer, basketball, and track & field teams, all of which terminated their relations with the sportswear giant.

The Jing Take: Luxury names across the board are feeling the pressure of this situation. They are businesses, after all, and Chinese shoppers buoyed most of them during a pandemic — that is far from over. Plus, most brands will be banking on China well into recovery too, making responses to these issues incredibly complex.

The Japanese lifestyle brand Muji and the sportswear brand Fila are both openly promoting the use of Xinjiang cotton, and Chinese media reported that Spanish clothing company Inditex had “quietly removed” a statement from its English and Spanish-language websites about Xinjiang cotton. Hugo Boss’s Weibo stated, “We will continue to purchase and support Xinjiang cotton” however its website claims the brand collaborates with a small number of organizations that promote fair trade, including the Better Cotton Initiative.

Meanwhile, the positive benefits from this fallout for domestic companies have been notable. Local sportswear giant Li Ning has seen a 10 percent rise in stocks, and many other Chinese names, including Septwolves Group, Heilan Home, and Metersbonwe, are performing well. Anta Group, which announced its withdrawal from the BCI, jumped by over 8 percent in Hong Kong.

Amid these boycotts, shares of Adidas, Inditex, and H&M are all plummeting in light of their stances. As this situation echoes what is playing out on a geopolitical stage, it could well have the potential to escalate. International brands may be in for a bumpy ride.
 
^^^

It's a dangerous game what's going on. Personally, from what I've read in the Times, I think it makes the brands look good (anywhere but China). They stopped buying cotton due to uncovered human rights violations (which were raised all the way back in 2016, mind you) but now the Chinese are saying they no longer want to be bullied by the West?

I understand the financial implications of the brands involved here by "provoking" their Chinese customers. If what was uncovered by the Times and WSJ is true, then why are they up in arms over the boycotting of something that is actually bad? Let's be honest here, the celebrities and influencers severing ties with the brands are only doing so because they need to appear patriotic to their country and they live in a society where everything is very controlled. So, not denouncing these brands would only harm them further at home.

What Is Going on With China, Cotton and All of These Clothing Brands?
 
^That's what I got from reading the article, Fair Trade initiatives are the future unless you believe in slavery and blatant disrespect for the enviroment.

Brands are being punished for doing the right thing, but who can blame the chinese they're more than brainwashed and live in constant fear of their tyrannical goverment.
 
The fashion industry is in for a very complicated ride. Raw materials from many countries like India, Vietnam, Australia, Peru, Mexico etc come from problematic labor. There are sweatshops in Canada and Italy as well as prison labor in the US. The whole industry is up for an awakening if consumers want genuine fairness. Let's not just isolate this issue to one geopolitical conflict because it's not going to change much.
 
I'm not caught up on this- so the Chinese are mad that these brands are not using Xinjiang cotton? Was there some agreement they broke? Otherwise this is just pressure to make them patronize their region, no? How does this even work?
 
The brand DÔEN is undergoing a mini-scandal right now.

They are sold on Netaporter, are mostly DTC and also have their own store and have positioned themselves as an "ethical", "socially responsible" company. There was always a lot of talk about sustainability and "empowering" factory workers. They took an anti-racist pledge and their instagram stories are regularly packed with BLM news pieces.

Their positions on some of these issues have evolved since the brand became profitable.

The fans of the brand are rabid and have discovered that the brand's actions may not be consistent with their claims after reading negative glassdoor reviews. One review claimed that lower level workers were asked to pay for admission to a holiday party and were not eligible for health insurance. Others said that the warehouse in CA had no air conditioning. Shoppers are angry about pre-ordering items, pre-paying and waiting months on end only to see wealthy influencers/celebs on Instagram wear the gifted garments the same day.

They also did a lookbook photoshoot with a photographer and shot every single product image of an entire season in 2019 at Wormsloe Historic Site in Savannah, GA. Wormsloe is a plantation that was a forced and slave labor camp. Slaves toiled there from 1749 until 1865 when the civil war ended. Prior to 1749 before slavery was illegal in GA indentured servants labored there. What makes matters worse is that they may have selected a bi-racial Black model for the lookbook. The models' ethnicity is ambiguous to me.

What's my view on things? I liked the brand OK and didn't mind pre-ordering items that only took a few weeks to arrive. Overall i stayed mostly away of the pre-orders and shopped mostly when the items were on sale periodically to save 30% - 50%. The items i purchased were mostly a good value taking into consideration material and design. "Sustainability" is a nebulous word and doesn't mean anything if you are importing items from overseas so i ignored the greenwashing and empowerment talk. I think it was a huge mistake for them to do a lookbook shoot at Wormsloe Plantation and depending on their future actions may purchase similar items from a competitor instead.

The photographer that shot the lookbook has shot for other prestigious brands so i'd expect better from them as well. The photographer is a partner in the brand.

As I said their fans are nuts and are piling on them on Instagram. I'm glad they are making noise however.
 
The brand DÔEN is undergoing a mini-scandal right now.

They are sold on Netaporter, are mostly DTC and also have their own store and have positioned themselves as an "ethical", "socially responsible" company. There was always a lot of talk about sustainability and "empowering" factory workers. They took an anti-racist pledge and their instagram stories are regularly packed with BLM news pieces.

Their positions on some of these issues have evolved since the brand became profitable.

The fans of the brand are rabid and have discovered that the brand's actions may not be consistent with their claims after reading negative glassdoor reviews. One review claimed that lower level workers were asked to pay for admission to a holiday party and were not eligible for health insurance. Others said that the warehouse in CA had no air conditioning. Shoppers are angry about pre-ordering items, pre-paying and waiting months on end only to see wealthy influencers/celebs on Instagram wear the gifted garments the same day.

They also did a lookbook photoshoot with a photographer and shot every single product image of an entire season in 2019 at Wormsloe Historic Site in Savannah, GA. Wormsloe is a plantation that was a forced and slave labor camp. Slaves toiled there from 1749 until 1865 when the civil war ended. Prior to 1749 before slavery was illegal in GA indentured servants labored there. What makes matters worse is that they may have selected a bi-racial Black model for the lookbook. The models' ethnicity is ambiguous to me.

What's my view on things? I liked the brand OK and didn't mind pre-ordering items that only took a few weeks to arrive. Overall i stayed mostly away of the pre-orders and shopped mostly when the items were on sale periodically to save 30% - 50%. The items i purchased were mostly a good value taking into consideration material and design. "Sustainability" is a nebulous word and doesn't mean anything if you are importing items from overseas so i ignored the greenwashing and empowerment talk. I think it was a huge mistake for them to do a lookbook shoot at Wormsloe Plantation and depending on their future actions may purchase similar items from a competitor instead.

The photographer that shot the lookbook has shot for other prestigious brands so i'd expect better from them as well. The photographer is a partner in the brand.

As I said their fans are nuts and are piling on them on Instagram. I'm glad they are making noise however.

I'm not surprised. I always thought they were full of green washing and virtue signaling. They have really strong colonizer and privilege vibes from their marketing visuals and language. So I am not surprised they were ignorant to find a plantation to be so idyllic for their colonizer aesthetic.
 
As I said their fans are nuts and are piling on them on Instagram. I'm glad they are making noise however.

Not familiar with this brand, but I'm always intrigued by these pocket (I want to say 'cult', but maybe that's too harsh) brands who quietly commands an army of rabid fans.
It seems to me they've created this monster by shouting green values and supposed fair practices from the rooftop, got caught flouting it, and must now suffer the consequences. Reading some of the comments on their IG posts, the audience seems to be a lot of women who feel very strongly about supporting slow fashion almost to the point that they sound fanatical.

Also, their customers seem to have some sort of problem with the pre-order concept, and I wonder who their influencers are because there seems to be a lot of resentment coming from customers.
 
I will assure all of you that communist propaganda is not that different from American corporate media to some degree. Unless the whole world(the people, politician, and conglomerates) are really taking collective action with compassion and empathy, there will be no change in the near future, just look at the situations of Tibetans, Hong Konger, Uighurs, and even the Myanmarese today! Nothing really changes nowadays. I bet those brands are regretting having issued their statements as long as they will be very unlikely to retrieve those statements and eventually put themselves in dilemmas. No conglomerate wants to lose the Chinese market today and the fashion industry is no exception. Every time when reading those heartbreaking news about human rights issues, I do have high hope that we can use our collective action to initiate changes around the world, but that is another long story! Sometimes I feel when you are doing business with authoritarian regimes, you are actually selling your souls.

To reply danawokarrr, the Chinese are mad at the fact that those brands are not wholeheartedly supporting their tyrannical regime! Lol
 

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