Dries Van Noten: Fashion is a movable feast, as few know better than Dries Van Noten, who, since 1985, has thrilled with collections inspired by Morocco, Turkey, China — anywhere and everywhere his talent takes him. In honor of his 50th show — counting both men’s and women’s presentations — he invited his audience on a voyage to La Courneuve, or as one driver called it, “le Bronx de Paris.” And what a trip it was.
Lucky guests who made the 40-minute commute arrived to find a spectacular mise-en-scène awaiting them in the dim center of a gas-tank factory. But then, Van Noten’s dreamy dinner-and-a-show concept is best summed up by the numbers: 500 guests sat at a single 492-foot-long table covered in two tablecloths, where 320 waiters and 20 sommeliers served dinner by the glow of 150 chandeliers. The wine flowed. The plates arrived — and later disappeared — in a single, well-choreographed fell swoop. Then came the moment of truth, the show itself. “He could show a gunny sack at this point,” said one satiated editor. Yes, the evening was that enchanting, and the theatrics that grand. But more importantly, Van Noten’s clothes — 70 looks and nary a gunny sack among them — were a feast for the eyes.
The chandeliers rose toward the ceiling, and models took to the table top in pretty light cotton blouses and skirts in hazy faded florals that expressed the adventuresome, folksy chic of Dries at his best. Other designers may dabble in circle skirts, but Van Noten does them right, whether worn under embroidered aprons or sparkling with silvery trim at their borders. Meanwhile, peasant blouses embroidered in panels at the sleeves were intricate enough to seem authentic, but light enough to be au courant, and featherweight gauze dresses begged for a day of strolling under the sun. His collection was pure Dries, and though the house is hitting the 20th-anniversary mark, it all looked as fresh as if he were starting out on day one.
this- I am a huge fan of prints, done the right way. Softie, I think you are right on here- the prints are subdued, like your grandmother's utra-fine linens washed and hung dry hundred of times. Gorgeous. I also love the woven geometric skirts- its like wearing one of Dries' amazing scarfs around half of your body.
