F/W 09.10 recap: thoughts and your top 10 Collections

[Street_a_Licious]

Ferragamo. it was elegant, sexy, chic, modern and if you ignore the 3/4 length on the pants, one of the very best collections shown in the past few weeks.

 

[nicole-marie]

My favorites:
rodarte
lanvin
balmain
cavalli
lacriox
galiano
louis vuitton
My favorite trend for the season has got to be fur!!!!!!

 

[Mr-Dale]

This is my line-up of favorites for now...I am probably forgetting some, but anyway.

Nina Ricci

Almost lonely at the top as far as I am concerned. Litteraly even, with those much talked about shoes. It may have been Theysken's last collection for Nina Ricci (or not, who knows) and if so, it was his best I think. It captured a lot of things that have been missing in fashion for a long time: excitement, passion, dare and all those adjectives that I have summed up earlier: shocking, perverse, bizarre, beautiful, evoking, earthquaking etc etc. Echoes of an era gone by with references to Thierry Mugler and the atmosphere of the supermodel filled runways of the 80's and 90's. Not that there were any supermodels, but that maybe added to the hidden fragility in this darkly romantic collection. And God, this silhouette on Anabela...I can't stop talking about it.

John Galliano

Thirty looks that left me wanting more, more, more! And that has been a long time at Galliano. There was little to buy or sell in this collection (aside from some blouses and skirts maybe) so you might say he is out of touch with reality with this collection, but I cannot but commend him for other things. It was a return to full-on extravaganza and wonderlust on the Galliano runway. Finally he showed creation that make you dream, make you smile and make you disappear in his crazy mind. That hadn't happened like this since his 02-04 era. As he always says "I am just a dressmaker here to make people dream" and finally that is what he did.

Carolina Herrera

Another collection that tapped into a darker and mysterious romanticism. Such a soothing palette of azures, coppers and greens you'll find in a silent coniferous forest. And fantastic treatment of the fabrics as you can see in this look on Ksenia here. Down to the floorlength gowns worn with lovely overcoats, there was nothing I did not like about this collection.

Miu Miu

I don't think Miu Miu has ever appeared on my list of favorites before, but there is a first for everything. There was this amazing feeling of sophistication in this collection. Lovely camel coats with excellent cutting. Playfully added furs, the sharpest black coat of the season and I think maybe the best prints of the season. Perverse with the skeletal, primal dessins and romantic with flowers and baroque elements. I loved it.

Marc Jacobs

Eighties galore throughout the season, but there always is someone who does it best. I think that was Marc Jacobs and I am surprised there are so few mentions of him in this collection. His collection made wish I was clubbing with him and his peers back in the eighties. Which is exactly the point of the collection...these clothes are supposed to make you long for that decade and get that feeling back while still looking sharp and 2010. Because there definetly were seperates in this collection that makes women look in key and ahead of fashion today.

More to come!

style.com

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

i haven't done my full recap yet but i must say louic vuitton is defitanely in my top 5. F**cking AMAZING!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gy7FW_sHwMg

 

[Squizree]

I think this season was full of surprises, whoever usually sucked was great, and whoever was usually great sucked. With exceptions of course.

My tops

- Versace of course, although, like everyone said, the collection was a step backwards compared to the last collections I still loved every since piece, it had all the key Versace factors in it. Sexy shoes, sexy makeup and thigh high slits.

- I know everyone thought it was kinda weird but I actually loved Gianfranco Ferre. I loved the mood that was created, that really scary and almost depressing funeral-like aura was everywhere.

- Lanvin......there arent even words to describe this collection. Elbaz is just genius. The whole show reeked with class.

- I know it was a controversial collection but I loved Nina Ricci. Strong references to Thierry Mugler, but those shoes!!! and the outfits, it was so powerful, so strong and so shocking!

- Rodarte!! Soooo sexy. The danger factor was all over the place!! It was super.

- Stella McCartney. This is the FIRST time in the history of history that Ive ever considered Stella McCartney anything above crap. I loved the simplicity of everything. But it wasnt too simple like her usual shows, it was cute and feminine but still with attention to detail. Very chic.

all from style.com

 

[Squizree]

DISAPPOINTMENTS

Givenchy....it didnt suck, but it was so boring for him, he's usually much more creative!
YSL.....too basic and too boring. It's like he just gave up or something.
Elie Saab......he didnt suck this season, in fact I loved the collection, but he was missing his figure hugging, classic beautiful gowns and outfits.
Valentino............ This was probably the worst of the season. What those criminals did to Valentino is NOT funny and deserves penalty by death!
Christia Dior.......What happened? It's like everything fell apart! Where is all the magic?!?! Where is Galliano??!!
Balenciaga!!!! I cried all night long for this collection. FALL Season is NOTHING without Balenciaga, and this was the BIGGEST disappointment of all. Everything looked lame and grandma!
Salvatore Ferragamo....its usually so impressive and luxurious! This season it was just disturbing

HATED

DSquared
Chanel
Prada
Gareth Pugh
Dries Van Noten (again)
Emporio Armani
Fendi
Gucci Gucci is over for me.

 

[MulletProof]

I found all the four cities just dripping in diversity and surprises, I cannot understand the disappointment or even the irritation towards 80s stuff, it might get all the exposure in the upcoming months but it was only a tiny fraction among all the creativity and inspiring creations that kept flowing in the past few weeks. The recession was certainly a major factor of the direction most creators took but it definitely made for an interesting ride to see all the positions on what seemed a debate of what should sell better: a timeless piece that captures the essence of a house or a piece that symbolizes a season to perfection. The latter was a bit of a sad spectacle for me as we had to see people that are capable of putting together an impeccably tasteful collection (Theyskens, Roksanda) succumbing to the cartoon-ish and dated vision of what fashion should be according to people like Donatella or Galliano or clowns like Marc Jacobs.
The first side was by far what made the entire season for me, seeing people like Angela Missoni, Christopher Bailey or Doo.ri Chung making what I consider to be their best, most explicit and unexpected effort to date, I definitely started seeing the upside of vulnerable times.
and then the Japanese and the Belgians, they rarely disappoint but I loved how they went back to some of their old tricks and did what they do best.. put fascinating collections that, now, more than ever, make you value the ability to remain a thinker and a creator without sacrificing your integrity.

Top 10.

1. Comme des Garçons

2. Missoni

3. Rick Owens

4. Ann Demeulemeester

5. Antonio Marras

6. Yohji Yamamoto
7. Christian Wijnants
8. Martin Margiela
9. Matthew Ames
10. Lutz
[pictures via style.com/catwalking]

 

[fierceboi]

Valentino was the MOST disappointing. I was Pleasantly surprised with Chloe and McQueen. Best collection for me for the FW2009/2010 season has to be Lanvin.

 

[a.t.]

• Comme des Garçons
• Jil Sander
• Yohji Yamamoto
• Antonio Marras
• Ann Demeulemeester
• Haider Ackermann
• Rick Owens

• Lanvin

style

 

[dju dju]

loved more "wearable" collections

Isabelle Marant
Marni
Dries Van Noten
Jill Sander
Rick Owens

that's really it
hmmmm

 

[telepathicgoat]

loved:
John Galliano
Junya Watanabe
Comme Des Garcons
Miu Miu
Nina Ricci
Peter Pilotto
Marc Jacobs

frustrated about:
Lanvin
Chloe
Christopher Kane
Balenciaga
Rodarte

 

[loladonna]

These end of the season favorites lists on TFS are always the same:

90% of the favorites are the well-known big name designers. Does anyone even browse the threads for the lesser known designers?

Everyone hates all of NY because it's the "in" thing to do on TFS and apparently clothes that can actually be worn off the runway aren't worth a look.

London is virtually ignored.

Everyone raves over the regurgitated excesses of Paris as though it is something fresh and new.

There is a definite bandwagon effect on TFS.

 

[ElectricAlyce]

Top 10:
1. Alexander McQueen

2. Rick Owens

3. Gareth Pugh

4. Diesel Black Gold

*dodges flying stilletos*

5. David Koma /CMS

6. Junya Watanabe
7. Ann Demeulemeester
8. Dsquared2
9. Roberto Cavalli
10. Comme des Garçons

Not shure about the order, but sooomething like that, oui

 

[Dkammern]

NYC: much much much better than last season. sometimes looking through the new york shows is like watching a 500 looks collection. for once it wasnt that way. Doo ri more sophisticated than usual, calvin klein and it's sterile sex appeal as always, rodarte for taking a theme narrowing it down and exploiting it in a pretty smart way, and monique lhuillier to whom i had never paid attention because i think she tries a bit too hard... but for some reason when i think of NY-FW09 her collection is one of the few that come to mind.

LONDON: the general feel of it was good and i know if i looked back on the threads i'd find some interesting stuff that i like... however, i know there's not one collection whose name i could tell you as a true stand out. i guess i could say christopher kane, cause i liked his show.. but again, that doenst count as a real stand out... it's just the only name i can remember

MILAN: mixed feeling. somehow i can't think of milan as the usual trashy rich-b*tch redux we get every season... although i'm thinking that might be either because for the first time i barely cared to look at the stuff i knew i wouldnt like (DG, Frida, Cavalli...), or because the italian fashion week has become the land of hypocrites that deny their mediocre past by trying (hard) to put their models on classy outfits and big frou frou overdosed dresses (DG, Frida, Cavalli...). There were however collections that i really liked. I thank prada for still doing her thing even if some say she just does it for the press attention, and it's weird for the sake of weird, or whatever... I loved jil sander's respectful approach to jil's work, and then the "second part" of ravishing volumes and hues... bottega veneta was good! i must say i didnt expect it. i guess the excesses on the other catwalks made BV even more valuable this season.

PARIS: where the real fun is. is there anyone who didnt like lanvin? from the set, to the hair and make up, to the gorgeous clothes everything was perfect. every coat, every dress, the beautiful jewels, the beautiful shoes. i'd die to undress the lanvin woman, yet maybe i wouldnt dare... dior and john galliano as a whole. because years ago dior and his label always looked the same and that's not good, and then when he finally found the way to differentiate them the dior shows started being a huge disappointment and the jg kept getting better and better which isnt good either. this is the first time that i see john getting to the perfect balance. i hope the 2006-2008 dior days are gone for good, and that the seasons to follow will be jsut as fun as this one. louis vuitton, all about paris. hints to all the greatest creators and all of their muses. sensational!
the controversial nina ricci...it shocked me so much at first sight i couldnt believe people were having such awful reactions to it. i loved it from the first minute. alexander mcqueen was also a favourite, although i must say people's reaction stroke me this time too... i didnt find it all that better than previous seasons. maybe it's because i always like him a lot . and last but not least: yves saint laurent which had a "prada-effect" on me this season... you know when you are presented something and you dont see the appeal in it at all... and then all of a sudden it starts to make sense and you love it and you never get enough that was YSL this season
i guess i could add a lot more to the paris list... miu miu, hermes, jean paul, cnanel, karl lagerfeld... i guess it's a good sign!!

EDIT: oh! i just realized the thread says top 10... not top 20

 

[Spike413]

Overall I thought this was a really strong season, all things considered. I found that a lot of the established names really brought their A-game to the plate. And in comparison to last season, before the r-word became an inescapable reality, I actually think this season was better. There was a sense of designers either pushing themselves somewhere different or in most cases sticking to their strengths and doing what they know, only better.

New York especially was where I saw this, with the big names proving that hype really doesn't count for much when you get down to it. Donna Karan was especially strong and, four weeks after the fact, is still one collection that excites me. It was such a clear show, nothing came off as being frivolous, and the clothes were absolutely gorgeous. Plus, it proved that, despite all evidence to the contrary, shoulder pads can still look good. Michael Kors impressed me as well. The elements of the show were nothing new to fashion, but they were very new to him and I love that in a time where the thinking is that designers should stick to what they know, he pushed himself into unexepcted territory. I also loved the fun offered by Marc Jacobs (though his signature collection would be trumped by his LV collection) and the amazing take on post-apocolyptic futurism from Rodarte.

Milan I was less enthusiastic about, although there were a few highlights. Prada of course, for managing to deliver some really beautiful clothes as well as excitement and a bit of drama that responded to the state of things, rather than ignoring them entirely. I also loved that for the first time Miuccia seemed to evolve an idea rather than doing something completely different from the season before. I also really liked *shock* Roberto Cavalli. It was really nice to see him focus on making clothes aimed at girls and women who don't live on a red carpet for a change and to finally learn that being completely covered up can still be very sexy. And I liked that the collection was focused more on shape and cut than decoration. Bottega Veneta was also beautiful, though it's always sort of dependable in that respect. This season though there was a kind of decadence to it, as well as a slightly more relaxed, louche sort of feel to some of the clothes and I think that even though it was signature BV, the elements were used in a slightly different way. And Ferre, while not perfect, was a good effort. There were some moments of real promise in the collection that left me wanting to see where Aquilano and Rimondi will take things if given the opportunity. Versace was a huge letdown for me, it was as if Donatella had taken two steps forward in past seasons and one step back with this collection.

Paris started out sort of flat for me. Nina Ricci confused me, and I still haven't made up my mind about it. Whatever infectious vibe Balmain might have had has apparently worn off on me because all I saw was a bunch of truly ridiculous looking clothes. And Balenciaga was a huge disappointment. Seeing Nicolas turn his back on his strengths, and wind up making something that was quite retro was just...well I still haven't entirely gotten over the upset. Thankfully Lanvin came along and wiped away all of those feelings. Chic, elegant, desirable and wearable fashion at it's best. A wonderful summation of all the contradictions that make women so interesting. After Lanvin the week definitely picked up. Rick Owens was a pleasant surprise since I normally don't care for his runway presentations, preferring the clothes on their own. This season though something just clicked for me, and the colors almost made me like the idea of a frozen, icy winter. Haider Ackermann was, as his collection has been for the past few seasons, really wonderful. I loved the mix of the vaguely ethnic details with the dark sort of glamour, and the pops of blood red were . Givenchy I loved because there was just so much in the collection, wonderful tailoring, inspiring show pieces, the 40s, barbarism, darkness, lightness, glamour, masculinity, femininity...and almost all of it without the brooding student aspect of some of Tisci's earlier work at the house. As I said, Vuitton took the MJ collection's place as the most fun show of the season. I think it's because the take on the 80s here was different than what we'd seen, more feminine, more joyous, more silly, more pretty. He just took that and ran, mixing it with a cartoony sort of prettiness and a sort of trashy undercurrent that just made the whole thing really uplifting. And finally, Miu Miu. Some of the most beautiful and sensual coats and jackets I've ever seen. I don't even have many thoughts about the collection or what it was all about, I just loved the clothes and the whole look of what was shown.

My Top 10

Donna Karan
Prada
Givenchy
Lanvin
Louis Vuitton
Haider Ackermann
Miu Miu
Gianfranco Ferre
Rodarte
Roberto Cavalli

 

[gossiping]

Lanvin
Balmain
Rodarte
Miu Miu
Luella
Yves Saint Laurent
Givenchy


just some of the HUGE DISAPPOINTMENTS

 

[JordanB]

I was mostly disappointed with this seasons collections due to the fact that most designers seemed to go the safe route with more wearable/practical collections as a result of the failing economy.

There seemed to be a strong 80's influence in a lot of the collections which doesn't surprise me because the 80's were a very optimistic time. But it was a little much having seen it over and over again.

Some of my favorites:

Rick Owens
Haider Ackermann
Lanvin
Givenchy
Rodarte
Marios Schwab

 

[kiddokiddo]

I found all the four cities just dripping in diversity and surprises, I cannot understand the disappointment or even the irritation towards 80s stuff, it might get all the exposure in the upcoming months but it was only a tiny fraction among all the creativity and inspiring creations that kept flowing in the past few weeks. The recession was certainly a major factor of the direction most creators took but it definitely made for an interesting ride to see all the positions on what seemed a debate of what should sell better: a timeless piece that captures the essence of a house or a piece that symbolizes a season to perfection. The latter was a bit of a sad spectacle for me as we had to see people that are capable of putting together an impeccably tasteful collection (Theyskens, Roksanda) succumbing to the cartoon-ish and dated vision of what fashion should be according to people like Donatella or Galliano or clowns like Marc Jacobs.
The first side was by far what made the entire season for me, seeing people like Angela Missoni, Christopher Bailey or Doo.ri Chung making what I consider to be their best, most explicit and unexpected effort to date, I definitely started seeing the upside of vulnerable times.
and then the Japanese and the Belgians, they rarely disappoint but I loved how they went back to some of their old tricks and did what they do best.. put fascinating collections that, now, more than ever, make you value the ability to remain a thinker and a creator without sacrificing your integrity.

^Amen to that, well said, MulletB)

My top 10


1. Comme des Garcons (the collection of the season)
2. Rick Owens
3. Ann Demeulemeester
4. Antonio Marras
5. Yohji Yamamoto
6. Sharon Wauchob
7. Haider Ackermann
8. Lanvin
9. AF Vandevorst
10. Meadham Kirchhoff

Honorable mention: Junya Watanabe, Undercover, Lutz, Doo-ri, Jil Sander, Patrik Rzepski, MMM, Ohne Titel, Givenchy, Burberry Prorsum, Rodarte, Gareth Pugh (for the beautiful video)

 

[fouroclock]

Lanvin
Dior
Givenchy
Bottega Veneta
Jil Sander
Marni
Issa
Calvin Klein
Yigal Azrouel
Costelo Tagliapietra

 

[glamourama]

this season was boring.
but there are a few exceptions:

Akris-
Antonio Berardi
Balenciaga
Chloe- she is on the right way!
Gucci
Hermes
Lanvin
Nina Ricci
Sofia K.
YSL