Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture F/W 2023.24 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[helmutnotdead]

So I skipped legs day for this? They absolutely sabotaged themselves with such boring presentation.

 

[lhhbl]

omg this was absolutely STUNNING. BRAVO Julien!

this is how you take a house's code and reinterpret them making them modern, current, shamelessly rich, moving, emotional and dream-able.

such beautiful coats, beautifully constructed skirts, dreamful palette. everything!

also, amazing casting. a good casting is so important and whoever did it was very respectful in a way (Laetitia Casta closing was the cherry on the top)!

10/10

 

[LadyJunon]

I loved the show and the collection. It reminded me a lot of dreamy, romantic collections of 00s Lacroix, Theyskens and Galliano. The casting was good too. Not my favourite (that's Ackermann), but it's definitely a very close second.

That said, I just know that the social media crowd, who is the main audience for this evolving designer model, is absolutely going to tear this to shreds.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Painfully boring presentation. Which is a shame because the clothes themselves are so good! Slightly better pacing and a different soundscape/music would have helped.

Dossena maintained the eclecticism without it being too much of a Gauliter pastiche. The use of the lace to mimic the tattoo tops is a smart way of doing this, as well as the nude illusion body suits underneath sheer dresses (which got me at first, I will admit).

Love the nods to Gaultier's first few couture collections as well. Standout for me is Mika's faux cheetah fantasy, but honestly all the coats and jackets from this are rather lavish.

 

[avonlea002]

Stunning. Julien put all his predecessors to shame. I liked how simple the presentation was, it forced the viewer to focus on clothes. Bravo

 

[helmutnotdead]

I’m looking the pictures and it’s fabulous!

 

[gallianostan]

this is definitely much better than i expected. it's a shame the staging was so lifeless - it sucked all the joy out of the clothes, which were mostly great (sans those nude beaded dresses).

 

[Lola701]

Humility is always a great quality but sometimes, you have to scream and shout when you are skilled and even more when you deliver such a beautiful collection.

‘It was very clever, very achieved but also very surprising…
We have been accustomed to the hard-edge aesthetic of the Ghesquiere crowd so, it’s easy to forget that they can also do classicism.

‘This was great. It wasn’t a pastiche.
I get that the inspiration about the soundtrack was the spring 1994 but the presentation looked like they didn’t believe in it. We want to see the clothes in their full glory…

‘It’s a pity because it’s indeed the best show of the season so far.

Bravo Julien! For a Puig/Puig collab, it was well done.

 

[MulletProof]

it's a shame the staging was so lifeless - it sucked all the joy out of the clothes, which were mostly great (sans those nude beaded dresses).

I loved it.. it's like a bootleg of the streets of Paris from years ago. It adds a chaotic, super urban vibe to it that either stresses you out or makes you want to stay at the center of it, or both lol.

Beautiful, beautiful collection . I didn't think it would get better than those first three looks but everything is just so rich and detailed and makes you want to dream a bit. I'm not going to compare apples and oranges but, while I think what happens at Dior is pretty good in terms of investment (acquiring a beautiful dress that will endure the test of time and that you can give to your daughter in 20 years or wear at ages 19 and 70), there's an element of magic, showmanship and bold passion that you can see here, exclusively relying on the models and the clothes (no fancy, far away location, or loud music or the longest catwalk), which is completely missing there and is what people resent from presentations like this imo. Historically this is a city that doesn't just deliver timeless and good quality, but design that people traveled for, and took back home and wowed everyone because it may not have been outrageous or bombastic but just.. unlike anything that was available there, there was fearlessness and always some degree of eccentricity involved in both the process of designing and wearing it. It really isn't a wild expectation..

Also love how easily the models move.. it adds to the confidence and makes the clothes look even better.

 

[Mr-Dale]

That was great! In this current climate, it's a bold move to tap into the gypsy and French Maghreb inspired aspects of JPG's house codes and history. But it's done well and respectfully, making it quite a beautiful outing. Loved the setting too, really allowing you to be pulled into each look. The experience is only heightened by the soundtrack that feels like a romp through Pigalle back-alleys. You just know the woman whose heels you hear was smoking thin white cigarettes from start to finish...so fun!

Also, Paris has been treating us to some lovely unexpected model appearances this week. Natalia V opening and Laetitia Casta closing was not something I had on my bingo card!

 

[CholoChic]

More from the same, same same

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Some of the looks didn't stick the landing with me but still .... show of the season!!! I hope Julien learned a lot from this and takes it back to Paco Rabanne.

I also loved how plain the presentation was lol.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Wow for real what a surprise!! I didn't really expect this from him. And such a breath of fresh air being in the hopeless cloud of yas mess of the past two days. It looks like he really took the time to research and sit and take in everything to be honest with his ideas and execution. Nice, reassuring, and hopeful to see someone in that crowd actually cares.

 

[MagFan]

These really ugly laces and velvets with banal roses look more Dolce and Gabbana Alta Moda than Gaultier

 

[Phuel]

^^^ I believe that rose bouquet dress is a tongue-in-cheek tribute to the infamous Ruby Rod Gaultier costume.

Mullet approving of Gaultier offering must be a first!

Yes— the 1-2-3 KO punch of the opening trinity is enough from Julien to blow the collabs that came before him away. And so effortlessly multicultural, multigenerational, and multi-centurion not just in Gaultier’s generous spirit— but such an appreciation of Gaultier’s archive. And he still maintained his identity amongst Gaultier’s best. The offering could do without the elongated conical bustier and the Ruby Rod dresses— but the great outweigh the camp, and the closing scarlet velvet dress is such a masterclass lesson in draping and structure to put the other lessers attempting couture to 50 shades of shame :cough:Charles de Vilmorin:cough:

 

[MulletProof]

Mullet approving of Gaultier offering must be a first!

AND LAST!

Kidding... this lives eternally inside my head.

 

[Mutterlein]

I think he did an excellent job.

 

[bc collector]

Stunning. Julien put all his predecessors to shame

Not Haider.