Jil Sander S/S 10 Milan

[gius]

did russo say it about jil sander, mikeijames? ^ interesting comment.. where can i find it?

 

[mikeijames]

she actually said it about armani....

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/video/S2010RTW-GARMANI

 

[gius]

thanks^ it's a very good idea we're looking for something to feed more than just practicality, function..

 

[softgrey]

yeah- well marni DID generate butterflies...
that was an inspired collection that went back to the roots of the brand...

this is just crap...


edit to add--oops...i misread that ...nevermind...
i guess i just have marni on the brain cause it was SO AMAZING!

 

[softgrey]

I don't think one has to actually purchase/wear Jil Sander, or any designer for that matter, in order to judge a collection from a business/monetary point of view. If anything, I think it's important to view collections from every point of view possible - that of a buyer, that of a customer, that of a detractor, that of a stylist, and that of an enthusiast. It allows the mind to form a subjective opinion that expands beyond "I don't like, I like it" and it also allows one understand the purpose of the collection as a whole, the individual pieces w/i the collection, the identity of the brand and the p.o.v. of the designer.

yeah-maybe...
but the only thing that keeps a brand in business is the people who BUY and wear the clothes....
ultimately, if nothing sells, nothing else really matters ...


sorry- but that's just the reality of the situation...

 

[sobigsobig]

I still prefer to look at his men's, haha.

 

[softgrey]

You might have forgotten then that fashion is, first and foremost, an industry build around the commerce of clothing that people buy and wear. What might work for someone like Gareth Pugh, to produce collections simply for the sake of arts appreciation does not in whatever way work for a globally-operating house like Jil Sander... but I'll spare you the boring details of this point of view. I don't see much reason to further argue with Alexander Wang's faithful fanbase at tFS about the lack of real design, what gives him right and a clear raison d'etre beyond anyone's argument is that the very people that praise his designs in here also happen to be the ones buying into his proposition of t-shirt dressing and somewhat thrown-together grunge aesthetic.

I think it would be very helpful to mention the recently published article on Jil Sander's new venture with Uniqlo, from which one can get a very good idea of her original, very pragmatic design approach - and even though her actual clothes can be regarded as being minimalistic by design, there is an essence of ease and sensuality that I am thinking is missing in Raf Simons' collections for the house. It's interesting to put his latest collection in direct comparison with the two summer collections Jil herself designed during the brief return as the creative director of the house she founded, which also featured slight touches of frayed edges and an altogether more 'loose' feel - In the end, what she managed to give her audience were very easy, uncontrived clothes, such as the before mentioned dress Softgrey has (Maybe it would be good to post a picture as a reminder?). I've mentioned it before, but I'm finding Raf Simons' approach at Jil Sander often to be a bit too much on the 'studied' overtly-conceptualized side, portraying an 'art-house', monastic, Kraftwerk-like sense of minimalism for the sake of arts appreciation, unlike the 'private' luxury that Jil Sander's own creations always exuded.

so so SO true and right on the money...
my dress does indeed have frayed edges on the end of the sleeves and collar...
but it is refined and controlled and WAY sexier than anything from this collection could ever hope to be...
it is soft and has movement...
i think that raf just sucks at designing womenswear...
period...
i really do...
there's just nothing feminine about it...it's always so STIFF...
kraftwerk is such a great reference...
but i think it's going to be lost on most here...

i will find a pic of that dress of mine and post it here...

 

[softgrey]

here's a link to the complete ss 04 collection...
that was designed by jil sander herself...
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2004RTW-JLSANDER/

and this is my dress...

 

[gius]

yeah-maybe...
but the only thing that keeps a brand in business is the people who BUY and wear the clothes....
in the end, if nothing sells, nothing else really matters in the end...


sorry- but that's just the reality of the situation...

it's suspicious that Raf's been continuously generating unique designs since S/S '08.. so the fact that they haven't decided to return to what they were doing before (ie. the collections that are designed for the office or whatever it was), that has to mean something

 

[Dkammern]

You might have forgotten then that fashion is, first and foremost, an industry build around the commerce of clothing that people buy and wear. What might work for someone like Gareth Pugh, to produce collections simply for the sake of arts appreciation does not in whatever way work for a globally-operating house like Jil Sander... but I'll spare you the boring details of this point of view. I don't see much reason to further argue with Alexander Wang's faithful fanbase at tFS about the lack of real design, what gives him right and a clear raison d'etre beyond anyone's argument is that the very people that praise his designs in here also happen to be the ones buying into his proposition of t-shirt dressing and somewhat thrown-together grunge aesthetic.

I think it would be very helpful to mention the recently published article on Jil Sander's new venture with Uniqlo, from which one can get a very good idea of her original, very pragmatic design approach - and even though her actual clothes can be regarded as being minimalistic by design, there is an essence of ease and sensuality that I am thinking is missing in Raf Simons' collections for the house. It's interesting to put his latest collection in direct comparison with the two summer collections Jil herself designed during the brief return as the creative director of the house she founded, which also featured slight touches of frayed edges and an altogether more 'loose' feel - In the end, what she managed to give her audience were very easy, uncontrived clothes, such as the before mentioned dress Softgrey has (Maybe it would be good to post a picture as a reminder?). I've mentioned it before, but I'm finding Raf Simons' approach at Jil Sander often to be a bit too much on the 'studied' overtly-conceptualized side, portraying an 'art-house', monastic, Kraftwerk-like sense of minimalism for the sake of arts appreciation, unlike the 'private' luxury that Jil Sander's own creations always exuded.

I think you didn't read anything past the first paragraph of that post you replied to.
I don't mean to be rude, but since I specifically mentioned things like "as much as it is an industry, fashion is also a creative field", or how shows don't necessarily need to reflect what gets to the store, I'm inclined to think that's what you did.
On the shows vs store thing, i think there may be no fashion house who hasnt ever shown stuff on their catwalk, that won't ever make it to their stores or, of course the other way around, where the whole sellable collection obviously can't make it to the 15min show. As you seem to have more details on this, please don't spare me: PM me
Of what you said, which I actually read, all I get is that for some reason you seem to think giving this a negative critic is in a way more constructive or even more valid as an opinion than just praising it. (I thought only Cathy Horyn did that...)
You say you don't see a reason to "further argue" with a "fan database" that clearly can't compete with your high level of namedropping (kraftwerk? very impressive! but also non sequitur. you just can't compare simon's work to one of the bands who are considered to have set the bases of a "new" electronic music and then say he overtly conceptualizes it) so maybe we should leave it here and agree to disagree, no?

 

[Crying Diamonds]

My, god. The details are absolutely insane.
Prada and Jil Sander have both done a last season Fendi and gone for the raw edge look - only these edges in this collection are truly raw whereas Fendi used a fray-edged ribbon at each hem.
This was a shrug collection until the details.
I think I am in love. Great. Stuff.

Watching the video I'm cringing at the pieces that are like, half a destroyed jacket.. it looks like a college project. Are these pieces actually supposed to be worn? I also hate the first dresses with the torn pieces of fabric just sporadically placed across a dress.. okay it moves in an interesting way, but it is so much more sophisticated and subtle when the torn pieces are placed in two bunches on the waist and they still have the interesting motion, this motion is cleverly echoed in the loose pockets on the breasts and hips.
The oily metallic dresses seem sort of random but not quite as random as the one dress that has a white sock shape stuck up off one shoulder..
There are some beautiful pieces including the jackets with the epaulettes and some of the smaller (compared to the large-size) belted coat dresses with pushed up sleeves.
Overall it's a nice show though it lacks that certain essence of Jil Sander that I thought Simons would be bringing back seeing as his last show was split into Jil Sander and Concept.

 

[Sav_]

Wow, I love it all. Well...98% of it

 

[gb_32]

^me too.

 

[Mia S-M]

so far so good