Jil Sander S/S 10 Milan

[Amywilliams]

I'm in love...

 

[helmut.newton]

BEST Milan show so far!! It's just genius and thats all there is to it!

 

[kiddokiddo]

The details really sold the collection to me, it's spectacular, if only the two metallic dresses would disappear

 

[spottie]

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for rough, frayed edges -- just not at the price points these garments will retail for. I also think that some of the fabrics look cheap, especially in HQ. The "unfinished" aspect of these garments remind me of Marni circa 1998-early 2000s.

 

[gius]

i think since ripped jeans with holes and scratches and everything have become quite the norm now, buying slightly more expensive clothes that look like they are falling apart or even, clothes that you know will fall apart sooner than usual, won't scare a lot of people away.....

 

[Juliax]

I dont like that 'unfinished aspect' at all, the way its done it does make it look cheap and just untidy. Oh well never liked Jil Sander and this is sadly no exception...

 

[spottie]

i think since ripped jeans with holes and scratches and everything have become quite the norm now, buying slightly more expensive clothes that look like they are falling apart or even, clothes that you know will fall apart sooner than usual, won't scare a lot of people away.....

I think what you say works for the Balmain client. The "Jil Sander women" I see are professional women who need things they can actually wear to work and will last for more than one season, hence the willingness to pay the "big bucks". Akris fulfills this "professional space" too, and very well I might add. But it's nice to have more than one brand providing choices.

 

[BerlinRocks]

an artistic snake sloughing for some parts ... pretty interesting how he renders it in outfits. it feels very dévasté (devastated ?) ...

i need to see HQ ...

i indeed noted the Helmut Lang, too.

i love how simply he did the modest-sheer. very sensual. though i wonder what is the material used.

 

[BerlinRocks]

When you consider the problems that Raf Simons has faced since he became creative director at Jil Sander four years ago—new corporate owners, the departure of top managers, the loss of key technicians—it is not surprising that his latest collection seems so free. That was the word that kept coming to my mind tonight: freedom. In reality, fashion is not a free state. Designers have obligations to corporate owners, and some of them, as we have seen with other houses, are not very experienced. Designers must also consider retailers, customers, and editors. And, of course, it is often helpful to the creative process, as well as the bottom line, to work with limits.

If you give a designer a chance to be completely free, if you tell him that is what he should do, I am not sure how many designers actually know how to be free. Mr. Simons gave us the exception tonight. We have seen deconstruction, we have seen raw edges, unusual volumes, transparency, and things that seem to change or dissolve before our eyes. I had the sense that Mr. Simons considered all of these fairly recent notions, and then asked himself how he might do them better, and in a way that moved fashion’s marker. That clear-headed ambition made this show enormously powerful. Indeed, you couldn’t quite process everything he was attempting to do.

Before the show, on flat-screen monitors suspended from the ceiling, he ran eight different films of well-known land art projects, including a number by Christo and Jeanne Claude. Once the show began, the monitors played the 1970 movie “Zabriskie Point.” You could see the connections in the clothes to all these images—the melding of organic materials, the manipulation of spatial relationships. The first dress appeared daubed with fluttery, cut-out pieces of the same fabric, a simple device that changed the surface. Jacket shoulders and hems had a cut-and-paste effect. There were long mesh or net dresses with the body’s contours traced in knitting; the materials all seemed to blend together.

How Mr. Simons managed to create a black stretch sheath with a surface that appears wrapped and knotted, I don’t know. There were also beguiling volumes—oversized blazers and coats in what appeared to be natural cotton canvas; they were belted over full skirts. And there were fabrics that seemed to bleed from a solid wool (for a simple coat dress) to a sheer.

It was just an astonishing performance—energetic, modern, alive. I had the feeling that Mr. Simons was possibly, deliberately, interpreting some recent looks by other designers. The oversized jackets and skirts reminded me of the wool suits that Prada showed for fall. A sheath with ruffles down the front made me think of Marc Jacobs. Some of the coarse materials, like raw linen, and exposed inner structure of jackets brought to mind Rei Kawakubo.

But if he was thinking of these other designers, he didn’t just interpret their designs. He advanced them, and he asked himself how that was possible. Then he just did it.

September 25, 2009, 8:10 PM
Jil Sander: Free States
By CATHY HORYN

 

[BerlinRocks]

This is SOOOO interesting how Land Art is making such a come-back those past years !!!!!
That is really amazing !

Joseph Beuys come-back in mass isn't far ... I can feel !

 

[Hei Hei]

this collection is really amazing!!

 

[sill]

This is absolutely fantastic
Favourite collection so far.

 

[nyc_art_style]

It's not Raf's best collection, but I do really like it. Some outfits could have been made better, the fitting looks odd.

 

[*Bianca*]

Someone over at fashin pointed out that this dress looks as though it's on fire. I think it's incredible. Really love it.

catwalking

 

[thiago:)]

I love how classic and edgy this collection is at the same time.
I really love it. Favorite collection from Milan so far.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

My, god. The details are absolutely insane.
Prada and Jil Sander have both done a last season Fendi and gone for the raw edge look - only these edges in this collection are truly raw whereas Fendi used a fray-edged ribbon at each hem.
This was a shrug collection until the details.
I think I am in love. Great. Stuff.

 

[classicalbang]

Collection - HQ



vogue.co.uk

 

[classicalbang]

vogue.co.uk

 

[classicalbang]

vogue.co.uk

 

[classicalbang]

vogue.co.uk