Well, at this point it's clear that his work for Loewe will always be infinitely better than his eponymous line. The gimmicks are just, on the whole, scaled down and digestible.
However, I like this collection a lot less than his debut women's collection last Spring - which felt really modern to me because the references and overall effect felt difficult to pin down to any specific inspiration...it felt like something very new and different. It's too theme-y here. The 80's references and styling is too heavy handed. I almost wouldn't mind the collection as is, had the hair and makeup been more natural or less specific to that decade. Lose the sunglasses, too. They are just too obvious.