Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[FashionPower]

I highly disagree. The marketing from Gucci has been disastrous - from the bad bunny / kendall ad to the lack of focus on handbag campaigns, to the flip flop from Daria to the basic white Zara-ad backgrounds… are you saying the marketing was great and it’s solely a poor product that caused Ancora to crash?

Blame artistic director Riccardo Zanola for that, literally the blandest and most basic gay working in high fashion.
Sabato's offering is not the best to begin with, but paired with that non existent artistic direction...recipe for disaster.
The Kendall and Bad Bunny ad with them flying commercial is literally the worst concept one could have ever conceived.

 

[sunnysideup]

Blame artistic director Riccardo Zanola for that, literally the blandest and most basic gay working in high fashion.
Sabato's offering is not the best to begin with, but paired with that non existent artistic direction...recipe for disaster.
The Kendall and Bad Bunny ad with them flying commercial is literally the worst concept one could have ever conceived.

They went out the gate with BB and KJ, which turned out to be an early colossal blunder. After that, there were ads featuring “the pool” with a bunch of products in the water, followed by Zara and Express-style photography. All of it made me want to actively avoid Gucci.

The new Blondie campaign is an improvement, but it's still not great.

Additionally, when they introduced the Ancora focus with SDS, it came across as arrogant, prompting me to mute the brand's messaging—“love Gucci again” and “fall in love with Gucci again.” Um, hello? I already love Gucci and have purchased quite a bit of AM-designed pieces. That arrogance felt short-sighted and offensive to loyal customers. On top of that, SDS can’t seem to do an interview without sounding pompous and insufferable.

I don’t like it when executives and designers talk too much. Just let the product speak for itself. I understand that the business needs to comment on earnings, but aside from that, I prefer them to remain silent. If designers or company representatives are going to speak, I want their comments to be humble, positive, and appreciative of their clients, employees, and other stakeholders. That's it, plain and simple.

The only one who could get away with controversial statements was Karl Lagerfeld, and even in those cases, I mostly agreed with him. Even when I didn’t agree, I could never deny that he had a strong point of view.

 

[yslforever]

Imho the Valigiera campaign with Bad Bunny was bad but not the worst: the price point of those luggage isn’t entry level so the campaign was targeting higher revenues (and failed miserably)
The Lido campaign was much more damaging for the brand image, it was just a $350 monogrammed cap sticking out of water, the kind one can find at $15 on a market and on every other Uber deliverers’ heads. It’s so ghetto.
That’s when I realized their «brand elevation » was just talk and they had no intention to try.

 

[Phuel]

^^^This Gucci era is so marketing-by-numbers blandingly instaforgettable in every output, I genuinely have no memory of these campaigns everyone is speaking of: I do remember the shot of Daria self-comforting by a pool, but other than that, nothing.

Never cared for Alessandro’s wallflower dorks playing dressup, knocking off thrifstore and Dapper Dan finds either. But those campaigns were constantly solid as a rock from the beginning to the end of his era. Such an invaluable education in the power of branding. It’s stunningly ignorant and tragically hilarious why the Gucci empire can’t learn from what is right in front of them— or simply apply common sense that any design/marketing student would clearly see. How this multi-billion dollar corporation had no worldbuilidng groundwork prepared can only be down to not giving a fcuk. As reliably mediocre as Sabato is, he can’t be entirely blamed for the pathetic nothingness that's current-era Gucci presence.

What’s so blatantly revealing of this weakness for this Gucci era is the glaring lack of identity, personality and attitude. Alessandro’s logo-heavy leftovers are still carrying the brand at retail— now mixed with some knockoff-looking, watered-down revisions of Tom’s monogrammed archival scatterings. While Sabato’s tepid contributions are relegated to some measly, dated platform loafers and platform boots. Besides the celebs that are paid to wear Sabato’s Gucci, the casual fashion fan is still all over Alessandro’s Gucci at the shops.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

The most memorable moment so far was Daria in the swimming-pool with the jewels.
Dummy me, I thought they were preparing a very strong high jewellry collection (Kering owns Boucheron, which is wonderful, they could have had a little bit of help from that side).

It is weird what you say about Alessandro items still being in stores...
When Demna took over Balenciaga, before his first fashion show, there was a precollection done by the studio, with Stella Tennant in the lookbook, pretty cool.
Well, when that precollection hit the stores EVERY SINGLE PIECE by Alexander Wang was retired. As if he didn't exist.

Either they consider this seasons a transition time, or the chaos is really deep.

Sometimes it feels as if they parted ways with the person who turned a 3b house into a 9billion with, as only strategy, to do something different from Alessandro. Whatever, but different. Turn 180 degrees from the aesthetic that made them for a while the hottest brand on planet earth.

 

[sunnysideup]

The most memorable moment so far was Daria in the swimming-pool with the jewels.
Dummy me, I thought they were preparing a very strong high jewellry collection (Kering owns Boucheron, which is wonderful, they could have had a little bit of help from that side).

It is weird what you say about Alessandro items still being in stores...
When Demna took over Balenciaga, before his first fashion show, there was a precollection done by the studio, with Stella Tennant in the lookbook, pretty cool.
Well, when that precollection hit the stores EVERY SINGLE PIECE by Alexander Wang was retired. As if he didn't exist.

Either they consider this seasons a transition time, or the chaos is really deep.

Sometimes it feels as if they parted ways with the person who turned a 3b house into a 9billion with, as only strategy, to do something different from Alessandro. Whatever, but different. Turn 180 degrees from the aesthetic that made them for a while the hottest brand on planet earth.

Yep. It’s painfully obvious Kering leadertship has made mistake after mistake.

 

[PDFSD]

^^^This Gucci era is so marketing-by-numbers blandingly instaforgettable in every output, I genuinely have no memory of these campaigns everyone is speaking of: I do remember the shot of Daria self-comforting by a pool, but other than that, nothing.

Never cared for Alessandro’s wallflower dorks playing dressup, knocking off thrifstore and Dapper Dan finds either. But those campaigns were constantly solid as a rock from the beginning to the end of his era. Such an invaluable education in the power of branding. It’s stunningly ignorant and tragically hilarious why the Gucci empire can’t learn from what is right in front of them— or simply apply common sense that any design/marketing student would clearly see. How this multi-billion dollar corporation had no worldbuilidng groundwork prepared can only be down to not giving a fcuk. As reliably mediocre as Sabato is, he can’t be entirely blamed for the pathetic nothingness that's current-era Gucci presence.

What’s so blatantly revealing of this weakness for this Gucci era is the glaring lack of identity, personality and attitude. Alessandro’s logo-heavy leftovers are still carrying the brand at retail— now mixed with some knockoff-looking, watered-down revisions of Tom’s monogrammed archival scatterings. While Sabato’s tepid contributions are relegated to some measly, dated platform loafers and platform boots. Besides the celebs that are paid to wear Sabato’s Gucci, the casual fashion fan is still all over Alessandro’s Gucci at the shops.

As reliably mediocre as Sabato is, he can’t be entirely blamed for the pathetic nothingness that's current-era Gucci presence.

Well !!!! The pathetic nothingness is also his choice to design what he does and to say what he wants from his temas and choose who he works with like his direct team with that Zanola guy he choose to have as his artistic director, as a creative director you set the tone and you gate keep the vision and quality it starts and ends with you.

“You are the company you keep”

 

[FashionPower]

When Demna took over Balenciaga, before his first fashion show, there was a precollection done by the studio, with Stella Tennant in the lookbook, pretty cool.
Well, when that precollection hit the stores EVERY SINGLE PIECE by Alexander Wang was retired. As if he didn't exist.

BINGO!
Just look at Valentino: it's like the last Fall Winter collection designed by Piccioli did not even exist, no items in store and a very limited offerings on the website, in stores they just jumped from Spring Summer 2024 to Cruise 2025 skipping both PreFall and Fall Winter. On the website they removed all PPP bags line expect for the Loco, the Rockstud and the Vlogo (the bestsellers).
You do this only if you strongly believe in the vision of the creative director or the new design team...

 

[FashionPower]

Thanks Sabato, Zanola and the whole basic team for making us laugh with the release of the new holiday campaign!
- Kendall again (YAWN) paired with Jessica Chastain! Name a more random duo for a fashion campaign...reminded me of Selena Gomez modelling next to Julia Nobis for LV campaign
- Video with recycled Donna Summer "I feel love" song (just like last years' holiday campaign)
- 1 year and a half since Sabato joined and they are still pushing the Marmont belts and bags...so signs of anything designed by Sabato apart from the Rosso ANCORA color

 

[NoInvite]

BINGO!
Just look at Valentino: it's like the last Fall Winter collection designed by Piccioli did not even exist, no items in store and a very limited offerings on the website, in stores they just jumped from Spring Summer 2024 to Cruise 2025 skipping both PreFall and Fall Winter. On the website they removed all PPP bags line expect for the Loco, the Rockstud and the Vlogo (the bestsellers).
You do this only if you strongly believe in the vision of the creative director or the new design team...

The Dover Street Market world tour pop up is already miles a head from Ancora. Kudos to them.

 

[Phuel]

As reliably mediocre as Sabato is, he can’t be entirely blamed for the pathetic nothingness that's current-era Gucci presence.

Well !!!! The pathetic nothingness is also his choice to design what he does and to say what he wants from his temas and choose who he works with like his direct team with that Zanola guy he choose to have as his artistic director, as a creative director you set the tone and you gate keep the vision and quality it starts and ends with you.

“You are the company you keep”

Maybe I’m just mesmerized by Sabato’s backstage twirling/swaying/prancing that I’m just stanning a tad— but I’m still not so certain to blame him entirely for the plague of mediocrity that’s defined this brand. Without knowledge of how Gucci’s management operates specifically with Sabato, it’s all a guessing game with just how much control he really has. He was (and still is) essentially a nobody installed as a lead, and I suspect that may have been exactly what they wanted: A disposable corporate player. Corporate has more— maybe even total control, of the creative direction and product offering. Someone upthread had mentioned that current-era Gucci is so nondescript, so bland and so consumer, as to be accessible to everybody and everyone in order to maximize profit margins, while minimizing creative and production efforts and costs, is exactly why I suspect Sabato may not be in as much control as he’s blamed for. The brand just reeks of corporate meddling, down to a corporate schill like Sabato's salary being much less than had they appointed a star designer.

Frankly, Gucci’s been long dead to me since Tom left. And like @yslforever mentioned, it’s become such ghetto brand, it’s not worth batting a lash to see it at the current state it’s in. Worse than a brand for the casual fashion fan, it’s the brand for the casual fashion tourist.

 

[AVC]

The most memorable moment so far was Daria in the swimming-pool with the jewels.
Dummy me, I thought they were preparing a very strong high jewellry collection (Kering owns Boucheron, which is wonderful, they could have had a little bit of help from that side).

It is weird what you say about Alessandro items still being in stores...
When Demna took over Balenciaga, before his first fashion show, there was a precollection done by the studio, with Stella Tennant in the lookbook, pretty cool.
Well, when that precollection hit the stores EVERY SINGLE PIECE by Alexander Wang was retired. As if he didn't exist.

Either they consider this seasons a transition time, or the chaos is really deep.

Sometimes it feels as if they parted ways with the person who turned a 3b house into a 9billion with, as only strategy, to do something different from Alessandro. Whatever, but different. Turn 180 degrees from the aesthetic that made them for a while the hottest brand on planet earth.

This is so true. Went to a newly opened store recently and half the men’s products are still GG logo monograms and the web sportswear. Nothing from the Ancora men’s shows. What on earth are they doing?

 

[PDFSD]

Maybe I’m just mesmerized by Sabato’s backstage twirling/swaying/prancing that I’m just stanning a tad— but I’m still not so certain to blame him entirely for the plague of mediocrity that’s defined this brand. Without knowledge of how Gucci’s management operates specifically with Sabato, it’s all a guessing game with just how much control he really has. He was (and still is) essentially a nobody installed as a lead, and I suspect that may have been exactly what they wanted: A disposable corporate player. Corporate has more— maybe even total control, of the creative direction and product offering. Someone upthread had mentioned that current-era Gucci is so nondescript, so bland and so consumer, as to be accessible to everybody and everyone in order to maximize profit margins, while minimizing creative and production efforts and costs, is exactly why I suspect Sabato may not be in as much control as he’s blamed for. The brand just reeks of corporate meddling, down to a corporate schill like Sabato's salary being much less than had they appointed a star designer.

Frankly, Gucci’s been long dead to me since Tom left. And like @yslforever mentioned, it’s become such ghetto brand, it’s not worth batting a lash to see it at the current state it’s in. Worse than a brand for the casual fashion fan, it’s the brand for the casual fashion tourist.

knowing some people there the creativity (however the choice by the former ceo /president was to have a puppet installed)...... Ancora guy is incharge of creative output of image and runway and these been at same level as the corporate part of the brand .....bland and non script directionless ..as the product in store.

we often hear this sentence corporate meddling i would like to be more specific because it's different per brand and the effects are not the same and the limitations as well for creativity as well are not the same.

at prada the commercial part has also allot to say but that is more on to what goes into the stores what gets produced etc
where as chanel corporate part has allot to say but KARL was free to do his shows and adv and rest they took care of and he was happy.
At LV bernard will ask for more bags to be pushed in leather or something more high level general direction for a brand and the creative team answers to it with a creative proposal etc etc

Salary wise makes sense he started lower than Alessandro ended with at gucci or a star designer from outside this is normal you prove yourself first in the job and bonus etc are linked to the company performance and salaries get bigger.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

I was looking this afternoon at the s/s 17, the show with the pink-red fog and Florence reading William Blake's poems.
When it came out I thought it was cool.
But now, compared to what we have, I consider it an artistic masterpiece of the highest level, worthy of Salvador Dalí! 🤣

 

[LenaLena]

But the problem is that they are not selling, no matter what kind of marketing they try to use (be it clever or not).

Marketing is a tool to sell a product. The huge problem comes when you are trying to sell the marketing as if it were the product (and forgetting about the real product in the process) .

Agreed jeanclaude.
I'm not here to argue or to state my personal opinion.
I just took part in this thread to state that it's not fair to blame "Ancora Guy" for all the wrong issues of the company, anfd I'm off.

Plain and clear, Sabato is just an employ.
He does what he's been asked to do.
End of story

 

[PDFSD]

He does what he's been asked to do.

Wondering what do you think or know he was asked to do ?

Because he is not delivering that's the 1st big problem,there is no hype/buzz , no newness , no new future classics, no it bags , no it looks or product, no strong vision, no elevation , no clear brand story , no luxury, no excitement , no sales growth no creative direction , ........i can continue on and on on his job description requirement.

he is not even commercial if that was the task: because all bags pushed where met with setbacks/market critic and shoes as well rtw so much is too plane basic for the price and logo goods don't have a revived newness to push sales on the basic level like LV does with Pharrell and NG

He also stated in interview that he believes in his vision despite the critics , i dont think his vision was handed to him by the executives also the top management people that hired him left the company as well besides the owner of Gucci or some board members that green lighted the decision that i can insure you are not in the studio with designing bags or chosing models or drafting ideas for shooting concepts on a white wall and a chair or selecting what same coat to put 6 times on the runway.

 

[Lola701]

Agreed jeanclaude.
I'm not here to argue or to state my personal opinion.
I just took part in this thread to state that it's not fair to blame "Ancora Guy" for all the wrong issues of the company, anfd I'm off.

Plain and clear, Sabato is just an employ.
He does what he's been asked to do.
End of story

I always have a problem with the « he does what he’s been asked to do » thing because precisely, every designer got that.

Business men wants designers to sell. You take the position knowing that your mission at the end of the day is to sell. Now, the goal may not be the same and the goal for the designer may differ from house to house.

What Sabato is lacking is a vision. Because with a strong vision, you have a defined aesthetic. The products can follow.

Now, I would totally agree that Sabato is not the main issue. Ultimately, the only responsible is Pinault. He got lucky with Frida, he got lucky with Alessandro and he wasn’t prepared. There’s no real strategy. Sabato is collateral damage but in essence, he doesn’t have anything to propose.

Maybe my issue with Sabato is that, at this point he has nothing to lose. So instead of trying to hard to please everybody, maybe he should do something that feels personal.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

The only positive lesson that we can draw from this, maybe:
the lowest point of creativity of a house that was Top5 brought automatically the lowest commercial performance.

As a warning to the suits that care only about two digits growth and see the designing teams as instruments to reach their KPIs.





(Now I am thinking of Maria Grazia's tenure at Dior and want to delete this message 😅)

 

[Xone]

I think execs made sure to create a buzz around the first collection...they invest enough in order to the collection be photographed in a lot of magazines,marketing, ads,etc...they even created this documentary (so cringe tbh) but in the end if all that (that also goes along with a vision, a strong collection and key items) doesn't translate in sales it's all wasted money...and that's what is happening now.

The execs will blame always the CD and in this specific case he is very easy target to pin this disaster,even if we know he is not entirely responsible.

 

[PDFSD]

his creative direction : the style of looks and aesthetic of product it does not move a lot of people to have the desire to be that girl or guy ...to spend money period at gucci now !!!!!!! the brand is lame and stores however big or cleaned up restyling have no magic of luxe or hype/desirability

it's his style his image he brought to Gucci its not selling no ceo or owner can change what his creative vision is if its not resonating.

if miu miu stop selling ....well who will be too blame!!?? miuccia or the stylist or corporate ? i can tell you its miuccia and lotta because the magic does not resonate anymore it's not fault of bertelli or the campaign or store or marketing etc

it's the magic between miucci and lotta first show that kick started the growth then corporate follows to support with right decisions what bags to bush where to do pop ups how much to produce where to advertise etc etc

corporate can slow the process of growth but it cant make for better IT factor!!! this is the job of the creative.

too much credit is given to the mighty powers of corporate side of these houses when often it's the success of product that leads corporate decisions good or bad.

the job is simple: create sales for products via buzz & excitement with fashion show and image for the brand.

everything else is cherry on the cake and varies per skill set of each CD.