Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

Hedi came, he did his own spin on the Birkin, which is the De Jour, a great bag and then, a bunch of 80’s Chanel-like bags with a Cassandre logo.

At Celine, it’s the same formula, the same bags almost with subtle changes but the same Triomphe logo. The 16 is maybe the real stand out design he put out.

I hate what Hedi did with the bags sans yes, SDJ. I still love mine. The rest were too devoid of thought. I feel that fatigue at Celine right now. Yes, I wish the 16 was bigger too. I like it. Unfortunately the Triomphe emblem trapped them but it’s a good problem to have.

I feel like at Gucci it’s no use to rely on the ‘classics’ like Jackie for their survival. For decades they really aren’t committed to it. There’s not much cultural heft to them as compared to even a Fendi Baguette. You couldn’t say the same for LV. They have solidified their lineup for decades and in addition many Nicolas bags are huge sellers and I’d wager on their way to being classics.
 
I hate what Hedi did with the bags sans yes, SDJ. I still love mine. The rest were too devoid of thought. I feel that fatigue at Celine right now. Yes, I wish the 16 was bigger too. I like it. Unfortunately the Triomphe emblem trapped them but it’s a good problem to have.

I feel like at Gucci it’s no use to rely on the ‘classics’ like Jackie for their survival. For decades they really aren’t committed to it. There’s not much cultural heft to them as compared to even a Fendi Baguette. You couldn’t say the same for LV. They have solidified their lineup for decades and in addition many Nicolas bags are huge sellers and I’d wager on their way to being classics.
Tbh, for me, if you don’t have anything else to offer than copy of best selling bags with your logo on it, stick to your classics. It’s like at saw at Tom Ford, they did a line of bags with an obnoxious T. Nobody asked or buys that.

Gucci had the Bambou line, the horsebit line, a whole Jackie collection, the padlock line…

I think the 5 a 7 big bags, the De jour duffle bag are great. Saint Laurent smooth leather bags are good. It gets confusing when they are doing distressed matelassés bags with chains and logo.

There are better Bamboo bags at Jil Sander than at Gucci.

Look at a brand like Chloe. No real cultural moment since the paddington but a cohesive line of bags. Nothing looks like a Chloe bag and a Chloe bag looks nothing like what is on the market.
 
This is the first (and only so far) interesting thing that Gucci has made since Sabato arrival:

 
They already did the same last year; they seriously pushed for it on Christies and I followed the auction, but they crashed :



I am nostalgic of Gucci Vault, which had a very interesting take at the end on Alessandro's tenure and imho it helped the notion of Gucci being a heritage house, through nicely curated, sometimes enhanced, vintage pieces. I bought 2 Gucci Padlocks in 4 years there. It brought back also the notion of uniqueness, vs mass-produced, which was lost at the end of Michele and even more now.

Alas, Saturday ended the thing.

AND it costed them NOTHING.
 
Is this really what the Gucci stores look like these days under Sabato's direction? I'm shocked at how cheap it looks! That grey carpet is absolutely foul. And those bright white lights are bordering on supermarket lighting. I can't believe this is the new Gucci store concept.

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gucci.com/
 
Is this really what the Gucci stores look like these days under Sabato's direction? I'm shocked at how cheap it looks! That grey carpet is absolutely foul. And those bright white lights are bordering on supermarket lighting. I can't believe this is the new Gucci store concept.

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Remove the teal sofas...and it´s a f*cking Zara shop!
 
Is this really what the Gucci stores look like these days under Sabato's direction? I'm shocked at how cheap it looks! That grey carpet is absolutely foul. And those bright white lights are bordering on supermarket lighting. I can't believe this is the new Gucci store concept.

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gucci.com/

Yes, it’s basically a Michele store after all semblance of personality went out the door.

Remove the teal sofas...and it´s a f*cking Zara shop!

Zara has much better lighting.
 
Is this really what the Gucci stores look like these days under Sabato's direction? I'm shocked at how cheap it looks! That grey carpet is absolutely foul. And those bright white lights are bordering on supermarket lighting. I can't believe this is the new Gucci store concept.

View attachment 1294877
View attachment 1294878
gucci.com/

This is not the new Concept for boutiques. Remember boutiques lag behind campaign / concept changes by up to a year or more because of the length of design, planning and construction. This is leftover from Alessandro, with colors and finishes stripped away but that’s just being completed now. I imagine the newer stores would look more like the Milan flagship rather than this version.
 
This is not the new Concept for boutiques. Remember boutiques lag behind campaign / concept changes by up to a year or more because of the length of design, planning and construction. This is leftover from Alessandro, with colors and finishes stripped away but that’s just being completed now. I imagine the newer stores would look more like the Milan flagship rather than this version.

But the Milan flagship is also not Sabato's vision, it was designed before he came on board. For all the fireworks Gucci have created around this guy, the fact that he does not yet have even one store anywhere in the world that has been designed under his creative direction is quite bizarre. Those Ancora Red "pop-ups" were about it.

To me it says that Kering is still not fully prepared to invest in his vision...
 
At least they should do touch ups to cater to his vision. I always knew that when brands don’t update their store it’s a sign. They should at least try. Change the sofa, remove the studs, add a new rack it can really make a difference.

Cmon Sabato we were rooting for you
 
This is not the new Concept for boutiques. Remember boutiques lag behind campaign / concept changes by up to a year or more because of the length of design, planning and construction. This is leftover from Alessandro, with colors and finishes stripped away but that’s just being completed now. I imagine the newer stores would look more like the Milan flagship rather than this version.

Oh please, its not like the flagship is any better.

These are from a month ago.

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Gucci Flagship Milan Google Reviews
 
I’m sorry we cannot do Zara a disservice here. Their shops are actually sometimes so insanely well done with high end detailing and custom fixtures (remember that crazy Milan shop they have with curved custom light fixtures or the Ibiza one with the soundsystem.).
Oh no this Gucci shop looks like some Michael kors tragedy. It also has this bland flair of Peter Marino. Truly awful.
 
To think that people are complaining about Hedi Slimane’s continuous liking of chrome and marble when a significantly larger brand than Celine is coming up with this.

The sofas and lounge chairs look like they were randomly bought at any mid-tier furniture shop, you can put that in a café or waiting room but not in the stores of one of the largest luxury goods maisons, damn it!
 

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