The Business of Magazines

[caioherrero]

He is the CEO of L'officiel Italia...

Not only Italy, he’s CCO for Número brand

 

[Benn98]

Vogue Germany February 2020

Global Vogue Editors



Vogue Germany Digital Edition

 

[mikel]

Not only Italy, he’s CCO for Número brand

L’Officiel and Numero are not from the same publisher. So that can’t be right.

 

[MON]

Emanuel Farneti not being in the Top 4. Even other editions know his edition is no longer at its prime.

Also, the small photo for the Vogue Korea editor is good for his ego.

 

[MissMagAddict]

Andrea doing her best Carine pose.
Eugenia is by far the chicest.

Thanks for posting Benn.

 

[MissMagAddict]

If you know, you know. Right tigerrouge?

Nicky Haslam’s House of Commons

By Guy Trebay
Jan. 7, 2020, 5:00 a.m. ET

Upon turning 80, the English decorator/arbiter/cabaret singer/socialite/poison pen gave up his storied country house, sold everything in it, published a book and opened a new chapter.

LONDON — Lunch, or perhaps late breakfast, for Nicky Haslam was eggs Benedict and two coffee martinis. The setting was the Wolseley, the Piccadilly institution that has lost little of its luster since the restaurateurs Chris Corbin and Jeremy King transformed what had been an auto showroom and later a chop suey joint into a high-style brasserie in 2003.

Perched at an adjacent table were the billionaire Henry Kravis and his wife, Marie-Josée, a matte black crocodile Hermès Birkin beside her on a banquette.

In 2018, an all but identical handbag was hammered down at a Hong Kong auction for $175,000, but never mind that. Wealth displays are, in Mr. Haslam’s view, vulgar — or common, a term whose deployment he has parlayed into a personal franchise.

At semiregular intervals, Mr. Haslam issues lists of things he disapproves of on the entirely arbitrary grounds of taste. The lists include — although are not limited to — scented candles, celebrity chefs, Halloween, mindfulness, hedge funds, monogrammed shirts, cuff links, most young royals, colored bath towels, swans and saying bye-bye.

Unlike the novelist Nancy Mitford’s codification of social division according to a series of U — for “upper class” — and non-U words (looking glass and not mirror; sofa, not couch) that functioned mostly as booby traps for unwitting members of an aspirational middle class, Mr. Haslam’s lists are so baldly and so risibly snobbish as to be a hoot.

They have also proved so successful in a class-fixated country that eventually, and maybe inevitably, they were printed on a tea towel.

“I wrote in The Standard once a week about things that were irritating me, and, blow me down, last Christmas on Instagram there they were as a tea towel,” Mr. Haslam said. “Someone had printed them up, and they were selling like hot cakes.”

Tea towels, as Mr. Haslam would be quick to note, are common. “Drying-up cloth” is the preferred term, said one of Mr. Haslam’s aristocratic friends.

At 80, Mr. Haslam has lived so many lives — onetime Arizona cowpoke; protégé of Alexander Liberman at Vogue; art editor of the influential Show magazine; interior decorator to the Russian oligarchs and also Mick Jagger; WASP-ish social commentator; cabaret singer; raconteur; and so inveterate a partygoer that he has been called the most invited man in London — that he has attained semi-institutional status in a city he refers to as “my little village.”

When, in September, after a half century of residence in the Hunting Lodge, a doll-size neo-Jacobean country house whose previous resident was the storied decorator John Fowler, Mr. Haslam decided to vacate it and sell everything he owned at Bonhams, the auction was treated by both the design and popular press as an event.

“It didn’t bother me a bit,” he said of parting with his most intimate possessions. “I’m sentimental, not nostalgic. I steal restaurant ashtrays because they remind you of people you know.”

That he knows everyone — “There’s Tracey,” he said suddenly, jumping up from the table to cross the restaurant and clutch the artist Tracey Emin in the kind of embrace you may associate with border reunions — is a given.

So, too, is the fact that he is recognizable to those he does not. For lunch on the final day of the decade, he had dressed in a tightly zipped, shiny PVC hoodie ordered from a gay fetish supplier in Amsterdam and wool trousers. Clamped atop a tousle of silver hair, he wore a Thug Life snapback cap, label left on.

“The label is essential,” Mr. Haslam said with a rasping cackle as he fondled a silver cigarette case he had gotten for Christmas.

“It even has the health warning,” Mr. Haslam said, palming a box full of ultralight Vogue smokes across the table. In the position where most cigarette packages point out nicotine’s hazards, his friend Carole Bamford — an organic food magnate married to the billionaire industrialist Lord Bamford — had ordered up an engraved legend that said: “Nicky-Time Seriously Enhances Life.”

The relative truth of this can be gauged from the broad cast of characters in “The Impatient Pen,” a new collection of Mr. Haslam’s writings. Of its droll notational style — canny observations yoked to a stream-of-consciousness method — A.N. Wilson wrote in a foreword that Mr. Haslam, in taking us from 1950s England to Hollywood in the ’60s to today, “reflects on grand and famous people but he is not a snob.”

Despite its slapdash editing, the book amplifies a sense many readers took away from “Redeeming Features,” Mr. Haslam’s 2008 memoir of a life whose surface frivolity masked more vulnerable depths. Mr. Wilson called Mr. Haslam “gentler, more self-confident and much, much cleverer than a mere slinger of gossip.”

And, while there are many who may dispute this assessment, Mr. Haslam still manages to see the good in often reviled characters like Princess Margaret; the moral conflicts that plagued the gossip columnist Nigel Dempster; the purgatorial reality of Prince Charles, now 71 and still awaiting a promised promotion; and an aspect of the Duchess of Windsor that has escaped official history.

“She was oddly unshowy, completely misunderstood,” he said. “For one thing, she was too neat to be showy. And, as everyone who knew her could tell you, she did everything she could to get out of marrying him.”

Although educated at Eton, Mr. Haslam speaks of himself with a modesty as ostentatious, in its way, as a matte crocodile Birkin. “Eton, I loved, but I was incredibly stupid,” he said. “I was practically the bottom of the whole school.” What he was evidently proficient at was “art and languages and sucking up to the masters.”

It seems likely his social precociousness arises equally from a gift of unquenchable curiosity and the childhood polio that confined him to bed from the age of 8 to 11.

“It was quite worrying for my parents, as they thought I would die,” he said. “But after the first hours of getting it, when I was paralyzed, I kind of had a wonderful time. It was wearing, two years in a cast and eventually learning how to walk, but I can’t say looking back that I minded it.”

Everyone brought presents, for one thing. And he spent so much time surrounded by people far older than himself (Mr. Haslam’s father was born in 1889; his mother was a goddaughter of Queen Victoria) that, in the decades that followed, he would unwittingly become a living bridge between the Edwardian and the digital eras.

The octogenarian in the Thug Life cap knew Noël Coward and Elvis. He was briefly, Mick Jagger once reminded him, engaged to Tuesday Weld.

“I have always wanted people to tell me things,” Mr. Haslam said, meal finished, bill paid, as he reached for his cigarettes and headed out for a smoke. Lighting up on the Wolseley’s doorstep, he raised an eyebrow theatrically at the mobs of post-holiday shoppers in Uggs and parkas, struck by a thought.

“Gilets,” he said, dragging deeply and referring to the down vests worn by many passers-by — and also, beneath his coat, by this reporter. “Gilets are common,” he said and was gone.

source | nytimes

 

[MON]

Not Vogue Germany snubbing the editors of Vogue Hong Kong, Vogue Taiwan, and Vogue Netherlands

This issue was closed way after both editions have been launched. So closing lapses cannot be argued.

Is someone pleasing someone, or laziness got in the way

 

[AL92]

For those interested the National Portrait Gallery of Australia has the full cover archive of Vogue Australia on their website, from launch issue to now.

Link - Vogue Australia covers, National Portrait Gallery

 

[Lola701]

Angelica should have been right after Edward on that Vogue feature. And why Watanabe is so far...Even if ADR is the most recognizable personality of JV, come’on.

Tonchi don’t even know that kind of mess he is getting into.
The fact that he went to l’Officiel, out of all the publications really says a lot about his profile...Not even a designer friend to save him.

 

[Xone]

Angelica should have been right after Edward on that Vogue feature. And why Watanabe is so far...Even if ADR is the most recognizable personality of JV, come’on.

Tonchi don’t even know that kind of mess he is getting into.
The fact that he went to l’Officiel, out of all the publications really says a lot about his profile...Not even a designer friend to save him.

What do you mean exactly Lola? that bad is to be part of L'officiel?.....

 

[Lola701]

What do you mean exactly Lola? that bad is to be part of L'officiel?.....

People are not getting paid and he went there because of the insane amount of money they offered. Going from CN to it French « almost there » equivalent is not really prestigious you know...
I haven’t heard a lot of great things over the years about what is going on there and the bad behavior of the entitled daughter of the owner is well documented.

They have a new investor and are desperately in need to regain in credibility and prestige right now. And it seems like the desperation is on both side... So maybe something good may come out of this.

But overall, this slightly reminds me of Andre Leon Talley going to Numero Russia after Us Vogue. They made a good offer too...Look at Andre today.

 

[caioherrero]

Any news about Hapers Bazaar Italia? Who is working there? News about the launching? Fashion Director?

 

[Xone]

People are not getting paid and he went there because of the insane amount of money they offered. Going from CN to it French « almost there » equivalent is not really prestigious you know...
I haven’t heard a lot of great things over the years about what is going on there and the bad behavior of the entitled daughter of the owner is well documented.

They have a new investor and are desperately in need to regain in credibility and prestige right now. And it seems like the desperation is on both side... So maybe something good may come out of this.

But overall, this slightly reminds me of Andre Leon Talley going to Numero Russia after Us Vogue. They made a good offer too...Look at Andre today.

Wow ok, Thanks Lola, i understand everything now....I'm sure something good may come out of this, maybe he will turn L'Officiel like the new W....I checked some of the 2019 issues of L'official and is so boring...and not even in the good way...

The Daughter is Vanessa? i saw she styles almost everything of the editorials at L'Officiel...she doesn't look trustworthy...

 

[axiomatic]

wwd.com
Are the 2020s When Print Media Will End?
Kali Hays
4-5 minutes
If you look through enough comments by several media executives in recent years, most foresee a time when the period of printed media comes to an end.

Although print products, subscriptions and even ever-dwindling newsstand sales typically make more money for publishers than digital, they also cost a lot more to produce. While publishers are still set on squeezing what money they can out of the shrinking number of people who prefer a print product over a screen, mainly by regularly increasing the price of magazines and newspapers, more than ever before publishing executives are willing to admit that print may not be a part of the business forever.

“At least 10 years is what we can see in the U.S. for our print products,” said Mark Thompson, chief executive officer of The New York Times. “There may come a point when the economics of [the print paper] no longer make sense for us.”

Thompson said that on CNBC about 18 months ago. This despite digital subscriptions to The Times being bigger than ever at around 3.5 million and the company having ambitions of paid digital readers reaching 10 million, a number that could likely float a continued print business, if that’s what the Times wanted.

Marty Baron, executive editor of The Washington Post, also thinks printed news has an expiration date. He told his own paper earlier this year that they could “discard the lingering notion that paper will remain for long a big part of what we do. It will not.”

Baron didn’t put a specific time frame on it, saying instead print will continue “for a while, yes” but pointedly adding, “It will not last.”

So, America’s two largest and most successful newspapers seem to be firmly in the corner of print becoming a question in a “Jeopardy!” category about the early 21st century. What about the tech guys, like Google? The company makes heavy use of newspaper and magazine content for its core search engine and has lately been investing in news-related projects.

Richard Gingras, a veteran news and media executive who is now vice president of news at Google, also doesn’t see print sticking around too much longer.

“Clearly, it’s going to peter out,” he said a year ago. “Five years, 10 years, I don’t know. If you simply look at younger generations, it’s completely irrelevant — our heads are in [our smartphones] all day. So what’s the value of a print vehicle?”

That makes two huge sectors of media in the “end of print” camp. One relative holdout, unsurprisingly, is magazines. Executives from both Condé Nast and Hearst Magazines see their titles, at least some of them, continuing on.

Although Hearst is taking a hard turn into digital, with new executives and a restructuring of the magazines’ sales business, chief content officer Kate Lewis said she’s planning for magazines to exist 20 years from now, claiming subscribers are still “strong.”

“Magazines can fill that [role] of a gift that you’re giving yourself,” Lewis said. “In some cases, they’re both an indulgence and a utility…it’s a combination of those things and I think there’s an appetite still. I really do.”

Roger Lynch, just a few months into his role as ceo of Condé, still sees a future for print, too, albeit likely on an even smaller scale than it is now.

At Recode’s annual fall media conference, Lynch admitted that other of Condé’s 10 remaining print magazines “may make that transition [to digital-only] at some point.” He characterized Self — out of print since 2017 after almost 40 years — as a success story in this regard, saying the business has turned around. He didn’t have the same praise for Glamour, which closed regular print in 2018.

Lynch did single out Condé’s now-core titles of Vogue, Vanity Fair, The New Yorker, Wired, GQ and Architectural Digest as ones he “can’t imagine” not being in print.

Nevertheless, a handful of magazines don’t make a robust print media economy. The new era of the Twenties is likely the decade that printed magazines and newspapers take their place firmly in the past.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Wow ok, Thanks Lola, i understand everything now....I'm sure something good may come out of this, maybe he will turn L'Officiel like the new W....I checked some of the 2019 issues of L'official and is so boring...and not even in the good way...

The Daughter is Vanessa? i saw she styles almost everything of the editorials at L'Officiel...she doesn't look trustworthy...

The annoying daughter is Jennifer Eymere. Well Vanessa Bellugeon is quite ...unique. I think Benjamin is the only one quite low key. The whole family is a mess to be honest.

 

[Bertrando3]

I KNEW IT !!! I keep saying this from the very very very moment the iPad appeared and I stopped buying magazines in paper and stopped my yearly subscriptions to US Vogue, Vogue Italia and Vogue Paris and also stopped buying Spanish Vogue (when it used to be good : a.k.a 2008 lol...) and this very sentence ``“discard the lingering notion that paper will remain for long a big part of what we do. It will not.”´´ again proves my point: magazines in print won´t exist in the future. Everybody uses their phones and Generation Z has never picked up a magazine let along a newspaper: they live on their phones 24/7 AND even take showers with them (no kidding there´s a trend for that and documentaries on YouTube lol) and so that´s also the same reason why it has NEVER made sense to me to put the so-called ``influencers´´ on covers coz their own fans won´t buy the magazines they are the cover for.

Nowadays: Gen Z and Millenials buy very very few magazines, they either download them on pdf on the web or pick up HQ images from instagram and behind-the-scenes photos and videos are way more exciting contents that a boring interview on a paper. I am a reader and I have lots of books and collector magazines in my house however we have to understand it´s a new era, a new century and I can bet magazines in print will stop to exist in 20 or 50 years top.

 

[Xone]

The annoying daughter is Jennifer Eymere. Well Vanessa Bellugeon is quite ...unique. I think Benjamin is the only one quite low key. The whole family is a mess to be honest.

hahaha got it, thanks GivenchyAddict....well,let's see how things turn out...

 

[Lola701]

GLENDA IS OUT!
She is stepping down of Bazaar!

 

[aracic]

Katie Grand Names Ben Cobb Co-Editor-in-Chief of LOVE
Full article: Katie Grand Names Ben Cobb Co-Editor-in-Chief of LOVE

 

[axiomatic]

https://nypost.com/2020/01/14/hears...surveilling-workers-in-editorial-union-fight/

The fight pitting Hearst Magazines President Troy Young against the editorial union is getting nastier, with the Writers Guild of America, East now accusing the company of illegal surveillance and pressuring employees to withdraw their union authorization cards.

According to a complaint filed by the union in late December with the National Labor Relations Board, Hearst “unlawfully engaged in surveillance of employees’ union activities.” The union also claims the company “solicited, encouraged and/or provided assistance to employees to withdraw union authorization cards.”

In November, the Writers Guild said the “vast majority” of 500 editorial employees on magazines ranging from Esquire to Cosmopolitan had signed cards stating they wanted union representation.

Hearst has fought back, maintaining that up to 200 of the people who signed union authorization cards are supervisors who should be barred from joining a union.

“The surveillance claim is baseless — there is no surveillance,” said Young. The New York office of the NLRB said the vote to formally unionize can be held even while the supervisory issue is unresolved.

The company is appealing that ruling to the NLRB’s national board.

“A fair election process means determining who’s eligible to vote before an election, not after,” said Young, who also is pushing to have the union split into six different bargaining units. The union wants a single, unified bargaining unit for a stronger bargaining position.

wow