It´s hard to tell a favourite, I could possibly name even some more that had a strong impact on me, but here are some that spontaneously came to my mind:
HELMUT LANG, F/W 2003 (women)
I always liked the idea of a cold sexiness for women, where it´s not about revealing skin but about an energetic silhouette. The skintight silhouette was strong and confident, very focussed colour palette, extremely interesting footwear (Matrix-esque patent leather buckled wedge boots!) and subtle military referencing (oxygen plug-ins from aviation as keychains, laced up overpants).
DIOR HOMME, F/W 2003
Very elegant and edgy, completely against what the majority´s idea of masculinity - I think this was Hedi´s most provocative show since YSL, loved the mix of lurex, tweeds and rubber-coated canvases, the cheap with the precious, the rough with the sleek... Too bad I couldn´t afford any of the "strong" items (long black military coat from Look 1). I loved it when everybody hated my skinny clear silikon-coated jeans.
ROCHAS, S/S 2004
The first looks explained it all, the mix of silver lamé and Chantilly lace, layering them to eventually create a new "fabric" with a dark sophistication, that was pure genius. Once again a very focussed colour palette that easily brought out the message - a dark, melancholic sweetness - from the proportion to the footwear to the fabrics, everything just seemed so right to me. A masterpiece.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO, S/S 1999 (women)
I came across this one when I noticed this fabulous strapless gown exposed in the Kyoto costume department, I thought it was already the climax until I saw this gorgeous short sleeved pinstripe jacket with the dramatic volume in the back... so divine... Everytime I see it, I secretly hope I´ll somehow meet the woman that is actually wearing these clothes. This would be the perfect collection if they didn´t show André Leon Talley as a model....ughhhh...
BALENCIAGA, S/S 2005
Probably not the most avant garde collection but most convincing in my opinion. The jackets are strict but easy at the same time, especially worn with those wide legged sailor pants, my favourites are - besides that fabulous bustier dress from Look 1 - the light coats though, especially the one on Ann Catherine looks stunning - totally wearable and effortless, besides that gorgeous fabric - what is it actually?!
VIKTOR & ROLF, F/W 2001
The Black Hole, probably one of their most conceptual collections so far. This is without doubt one of those collections you can hardly forget because it was so strong in it´s image and inspiration. I loved it all, but if I had to pick some specific pieces, definitely the black leather tux shirt and the skirt suit shown on Shalom Harlow (there´s a photo of her and both Viktor & Rolf in A magazine, dunno wear it originally came from).