Elle Japan - Chloe Sevingy
Elle UK - Paris Hilton (awful issue, not a single wearable look)
Vogue Australia - Gemma Ward wearing YSL's cheongsam in Greece. Inside, the very exposed Nicole Trunfio and two other girls join Gemma for the Greece editorial. Nice, but not really in tune with the going-on's of September. One surprise is that Nicole Kidman actually has already worn the Chloe dress on the cover of Harper's & Queen. Also new: two ads from Elle McPherson's lingerie line.
Lucky - a disappointment, considering how strong its August issue was. Where to begin? The cover with Milla Jovovich was awful, even though it managed to put spotlight on the trend of the season--the tweed jacket and the neck-tie blouse. Of all the ensembles shown in the editorials, only three of them caught my eye. This is totally unexpected because this season is all about mixing and matching a feminine blouse with a neat jacket and brooches, and Lucky has always done layering and mix-and-match so well. The accessories section, where Lucky is typically the strongest, was a total flop. I think even Marie Claire is better than Lucky this time.
W - now, something much better.
*Ad Campaigns*
Dior w/ Gisele--similar to the Rasta ads but more eye-catching and has a lot of pink in the background. A nice blend of raw sex appeal, power, and commercialism, though not a work of art exactly.
Gucci w/ Daria--perfect wall paper material. One of the top campaigns this season, as simple as it is. BTW, a new image of Daria wearing a black Gucci dress can be seen in this month's UK GQ, with Mischa Barton on the cover.
Donna Karan w/ Cate Blanchett--the brown + burgendy palette forces you to feel the immence of fall. While the colors are well-coordinated, neither this or the DKNY ad stand out among fall's plethora of great campaigns.
Prada w/ Gemma & Elise--Prada and Versace together perfected the Procelein Dolls look. Prada went all-out with its accessories campaign this season; the beautifully crafted shoes really do deserve the spotlight.
Giorgio Armani w/ Linda V--ugh, one of the worst of the season. Linda V's nose looks huge as ever thanks to Mert & Marcus's unforgiving lighting.
YSL w/ Gemma Ward--already a TFS favorite; one of Craig McDean's most remarkable work this season alongside MaxMara.
Vuitton w/ Scarlett Johansson and Christina Ricci--better images from this series appear in Vogue Australia. I really hate the Diane Kruger ad, which made her look like Carolyn Murphy.
Marc Jacobs--this is so plain that there does not appear to be any artistic direction behind it. One of the worst for Jacobs following the Samantha Morton ad last season, and certainly one of the worst of this spectacular season.
Calvin Klein w/ Natalia--gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous (except for the first pic where Nat had an alien-esque expression). Natalia keeps getting better and better for CK. More props to her when I realize how weak the collections looked on the runway.
Dolce and Gabbana w/ Stella Tennant and Hannelore--meticulously managed hair + procelien skin = vampire chic. The clothes are some of the finest Dolce & Gabbana have designed in a long time.
Versace (red)--some people do not get why we have to use neutral-looking (read: personality-lacking) models to re-create Versace's icons in the late 80's/early 90's, but I like it. None of the girls stand out, nor do they impress you with their bombastic individuality, but when placed together all of them shine.
Hilfiger w/ Inman & David Bowie--carbon copies of last season's ad, I kid you not.
Issac Mizrahi for Target w/ Carmen Cass--she looks tacky and plain and perhaps even inexperienced. She exhibited no commend of the camera. Now that her political career is over, she does not need the exposure that a mass-market brand brings. Maybe she will go back to high fashion?
Salvatore Ferragamo w/ Eugenia--Eugenia as an icy, discreet, stylish Russian spy (often seen in profile, chin-down, wearing a trench), standing in the rain or waiting in a dark room. This concept fits her like a glove. She looks the part. Plus, really nice wedge heels.
Tiffany w/ Erin Wasson--not pretty, and I'd rather see Anouck, but Erin's career is going stronger. But that Michael Kors' "diva" campaign is a turkey.
Miu Miu w/ Maggie Gyllenhaal--not growing on me and I hate to see Miu Miu's beautiful collection go to waste.
Jil Sander w/ Valentina--more like Jil Stuart. So plain, and Valentina is not styled like the woman that the Sander collection was designed for: intelligent, sharp, independent, and fad-resistent. One of the worst of the season.
Gap w/ Sarah Jessica Parker--as much as I dislike her and think she is overrated both as an actress and a style icon, the ads are lovely. It's stronger than the supermodel stuff they did in the spring, and the Madonna-Missy Elliot thing last year. More important, the ads actually made me want to dress like her. The Fred Leighton brooches are genius. But Gap's secret weapon this season will be their tweed bags--so unique, you'd think they are from designers.
Escada w/ Erin, Liya, Hana, and Julia--Escada keeps ripping itself off over and over.
Ellen Tracy w/ Angela Lindvall--she looks phenomenally young and beautiful here. A lady with a boyish grin. Roberto Cavalli is forgiven.
Celine w/ Louise--so air-brushed that Louise's face actually looks weird. Michael Kor should be proud of his farewell collection, and it's just too bad that his best pieces (the black suits, the red shift dresses) were not flashy enough for the ad campaign. They are sticking to utility chic (jacket with zippers) and leopard.
David Yurman w/ Kate Moss and Amber Valletta--in some mags Reiley also appears. Kate is still beautiful.
Jimmy Choo w/ Natasha Poly--ewww, this looks sl*tty.
Hermes w/ Isabeli & Lilianne F.--great stuff and shows a new creative direction for Hermes' typically lifeless campaigns. Isabeli looks a lot like Gisele in a nude picture, and having both models wear the scarves as head-bands is a master stroke--more ethnically chic than John Galliano!
Fendi w/ Eugenia--I don't think this is as strong as some say.
Chole w/ Dewi & Carolyn Winberg--interesting & young-spirited, but not as good as Jessica Miller's from last season.
Chanel w/ Isabeli--when I saw the clothes I knew I should not expect much from the campaign. The suits are for 80's flight attendants.
Burberry w/ Karen Elson--would be more beautiful in color. Nice background, but still a wasted opportunity.
Blumarine w/ Jessica Miller--one of the most unattractive of the season. I have yet to see a non-Brazillian pull off the tan-with-nude-lips combo. Astrocious.
Ann Taylor w/ Linda E--I hear the series debut will be in the mega-thic US Vogue. US Vogue would not have reached historical page numbers without Ann Taylor.
Max Mara w/ Natasha Poly--normally she looks much older than her own age, but here she looks appropriate. McDean did a nice job with the clothes--they looks so refined and yet so cozy. Not sure if this campaign will actually threaten Ralph Lauren's or Chanel's sales numbers, but it is one of my favorite.
Ungaro w/ Diana Dondoe--another procelien doll.
Rena Lange w/ Mini Anden--she deserves much better.
Nars w/ Naomi Campbell--won't lure me in.
Ermanno Scervin w/ Eva H--her cheek bones could cut glass. Someone hands her a burger please.
Lanvin--Lanvin is the new anti-campaign label.
Lagerfeld Gallery w/ Erin--surprised that this is actually not a studio shoot.
Balenciaga w/ Isabeli, Gemma, Valentina--unwatchably plain.
Ralph Lauren w/ Michelle Alves--not that the Valentina ones are not good, but I love Michelle.
Luca's Hugo Boss ad and Frankie Rayder's Mulberry ad did not appear in this issue, but they are great campaigns that I want to mention.
*Editorials*
Metallica, Natalia Vodianova by Mert and Marcus. This is no "Death Valley" with Gisele. I don't like it.
Triple Bill, Julianne Moore by Mario Sorrenti, Michel Gondry, and Michael Thompson. Through Sorrenti's lense, Moore emerges as a success-driven professional woman who swears by a proper blouse and a pencil skirt. She is stylish, beautiful, independent, and ruthless. If her character in "Hannibal" prefers skirts to pants, she would dress this way. I have to credit the stylist for finding new interpretations for "secretary chic." The selections here are less obvious (not your ubiquotuous Marc Jacob/Prada stuff), but nevertheless aid Moore in growing into her character for this pictorial. In comparison, Michael Thompson's work seems less original and explores the familiar territory of May-December lust.
Niagara, Guinivere Van Seenus with Craig McDean. Guinivere is becoming W's resident model. She's worked with the hippest photographers of the moment despite her being older and having not been in the spotlight for so long (Did anyone really look forward to her return?). Nice coats. Serious dressing.
Nick's Night w/ Gemma Ward and etc., photographed by Nick Knight. Fantastic gowns.
Verdict: This is a very strong issue with a nice selection of ads (even though Vogue will be undeniably more complete) and cleverly styled editorials. W is continuing with its winning streak starting with Scarlett Johansson's August issue.
Ranking the September magazines which I have seen:
W: A-
UK Vogue: A-
Elle: C+
Marie Claire: B+
Lucky: B-
AU Vogue: C+
Vogue Nippon: B-
UK Elle: C-
Also, I think Stam got the cover of Vogue Italia August. Inside, Meisel shoots four red-heads: Elise Crombez (most beautiful), Stam, Karen Elson, and Missy Rayder. Madeline Bloomberg also made an appearance in an editorial. Won't recommend this issue, but hope they will pick someone truly worthy for the September cover. Stam's already got ID!