Yohji Yamamoto

[laika]

also...what about these jeans?
they are not drop crotch, but they are certainly baggy, slouchy and cropped.

might be worth a shot, anyway...

 

[softgrey]

^that is a lucky find then

because you think its a good piece or because it's from so many seasons ago?
totally random stuff at the outlet...
i'm still trying to figure out what season some things are from...
i am pretty sure everything i got is from before the design team took over...
you can just tell somehow...at least i think so...

yes, laika - i agree...
the vest is cropped like my demeulemeester vest and linen like my dries vest, so it's a good bet that i will wear it plenty since i have basically worn those other two practically to death...
truly, they are on their last legs at this point...
i know it's basically impossible to see it, but i also have this vest ...
it's olive green, which makes for a nice change...
i hadn't considered wearing it under a jacket, but i will have to give it a try...

i didn't go to barney's because i was so annoyed by their pics of that dress and the fact that the pants sold out...
maybe i will stop over tomorrow, just to see if anything else is in the store...
i used to love barneys, but it's not the same as it was...
...

thanks for the bigger pics runner---
lovely...yes- the top is bigger on the model than on the runway...
the cuffs of the shirt seem different as well...
it's the first time i see it in white- i think it was only in black on the runway, and i confess, i didn't even notice it...
i noticed the grey and white ones with the buttons only...
and i really like those as well, but this is more feminine, imo, as laika points out...
i guess it does have the feeling of a henley...
i hadn't realized that, but now that i think about it, that is probably true...
a very elegant and luxurious one...

i think the ones with the buttons are adorable too though...
just in a more casual way...

i love the extra long and off white shoelaces---
i have been trying to find shoelaces like that for years now...
i meant to look for some while i was in tokyo, but i never seemed to come across any...
i wanted to put some into my black muji sneakers...
they are more chunky than the YY ones here - more like a cdg style...
i think they would look super cool with laces like that...
i would probably wear them more often...

the pants are amazing, right?
they should be weird, with two different legs...
but they are just beautifully poetic...imho...


thanks for the idea for the jeans laika...
they are pretty great, but they don't make my heart leap as the other ones did...
i'm not especially looking for jeans anyway...
it's just that those really wide ones seemed to trigger something inside me...
the way my big cropped charlie chaplin trousers triggered something...
it's the same energy i feel from both of them...

just posting the runway pics from style.com for reference...
vest pic from yohjiyamamoto.co.jp

 

[softgrey]

oh- this is like the blazer i got at the flagship store...
it's one of the pieces that is just for the local market (japan)...
it's carried over from previous seasons...
sort of like one of those 'evergreen' things...

mine is black...
cashmere with faux pony fur pockets that zip off...
so much fun...!!!
haven't worn it yet though...
...

vam.ac.uk

 

[softgrey]

this amazing jacket turns out to have removable sleeves...
...

i love how it is 'pinched' and sort of pin tucked to give it shape...
really really good stuff~!!!


once again i prefer the styling from la garconne...
i plan to wear my big pocket blazer similarly...
with a long narrow (mermaid) skirt...
...

style.com
lagarconne.com

 

[softgrey]

i'll bet that means that these sleeves are detachable as well~!
http://forums.thefashionspot.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=676903&d=1395727722

 

[softgrey]

*edit to add
i don't seem to be able to post big pics from lagarconne the way you did, runner...
i tried, but this was the best i could manage...

 

[luckyme]

i hope these awful pictures give a glimpse of the heavenly nuances of this yy regulation jacket, and i apologize if not, but i dropped the good camera so the ipad has to do...
in the lookbook its shown in black but god, the micro plaid is good...really, really good. i didnt expect to be so bowled over until i put it on. its the kind of jacket you can grab and throw on but it deserves respect, it is one of those precious things that express who you are. very cool...

last picture is a yang li top that barney's wisely is carrying now and has pretty spectacular back details that catch the wind when you move.

 

[runner]

great purchases luckyme



both, captain
yes, strictly speaking, that top is a version different from the others shown on the runway.
the sleeves of it is like those of a regular long sleeve t-shirt while the styles in the pics you posted are all cuffed.
although the ivory one is quite similar to the black one on the runway, the two also differ in the height of the gorge and in the shape of the color and the lapel.
YY merchandise always turns out a bit more complicated than one would expect.

I'm looking forward to the blazer with the skirt outfit there.


about the images from lagarconne, each item has its code numbers. for example the numbers of the jacket are 24564, which you can tell from the url of the item's page below ( 1354 seems to be the code for YY btw, it's only the item code that is important here
lagarconne.com/store/item.htm?itemid=24564&sid=1354&pid=

then, put the numbers between "10/" and "/mz" like below
static.lagarconne.com/data/item/2013/10/24564/mz/01_zoom.jpg

lastly, you have to change the number just before "_zoom.jpg".
if the item has six images of it on its own page, enter 01-06 manually to get all the big images.

the formula above may change, every time the site gets maintenance. but I guess it could be applied for a while.

 

[softgrey]

thanks runner - i'll try that next time...

ah yes- i see the difference now...her hair was covering the lapel so i didn't notice that right away, though i could tell something was not quite the same about the neckline...

yeah-
i think it's always been a bit complicated...
that doesn't surprise me, tbh...
...
i remember the first thing i purchased from yohji was a Y's heavy cotton cardigan with a safety pin closure...from galleries lafayette in paris...
it came in several colours---
but it also came in several sleeve lengths...long, elbow and short...
*this was long before the 3/4 sleeve was commonly used in mainstream fashion...
and then there were different lengths...cropped, medium, long...
probably it also came in different yarns...
you could find just the right combination for yourself...

he often seems to do several variations- like he's exploring a theme...
but also- maybe in order to sell clothing all over the world, it is necessary to twist things slightly to accommodate the needs and tastes of customers worldwide?
fashion is largely a matter of style, but it is also a matter of lifestyle...
i think that has been one of the things i have always thought is so genius about yohji...
it always seems that there is something for everyone...
for example...
i may not like a collection entirely, but there are always some things that i don't just like, but that i absolutely LOVE...

the big problem for me now, of course, is that without the YY store here, i have to hope that the buyers like the same things that i like and will have them in the stores...
honestly- i don't want to sound like i am complaining all the time...
but i really miss the store...
i miss seeing everything all together and being able to choose for myself what i want to try...



if i close my eyes, at least i can imagine that i am in mini aoyama at the flagship...
that was good---
i was there at a good time when they had a lot of merchandise in the store so even the upstairs balcony was full...

honestly, i can never get enough yohji...
...

 

[luckyme]

Thank you runner.
Yohji's clothes feel like an old flame, familiar and ever so easy to slip into a natural rhythm with...

 

[laika]

very cool jacket in a great plaid, luckyme...do you happen to have the lookbook pic?
i would love to see what it looks like on, especially the back/drawstring.

softgrey, RE: the detachable sleeves...
someone directed me to this amazing blog yesterday that has a fantastic post all about the sleeves in that collection.

I never knew that where the sleeve meets the body on a garment
is called the sleeve head. I was SO excited to learn this and am
looking forward to growing my paltry garment construction vocabulary with this site...

 

[softgrey]

thanks for the link laika-
i don't think that is a term commonly used...
ie- i've never seen that on any patterns or anything like that...

i know that site but don't check it regularly...
it's nice that she explained that stuff...
but she had to do it from pics, like the rest of us, so she is just sort of guessing how things are done...

generally speaking-
wouldn't it be great if someone representing the company would do a write up like that?
like- on the YY website...so that people who are ordering online, etc could understand and appreciate the garments...
seems like a good selling tool...
it might also cause some people to imitate the technique...
but, i don't know that yohji really has to worry about the competition at this point...
they are all knocking him off to some degree by now...
and when he has his exhibits, he permits the garments to be sketched and examined inside and out so that you can appreciate the construction, etc...
he seems to have plenty of ideas, so i don't think it matters if people try to steal some...

i don't know...i just feel like the world misses a lot without getting a close up view...
normally, i would say that is the job of the fashion reviewers and reporters...
but we don't have a lot of those these days...
at least not many "real" ones...
more like fashion aficianados or just plain clothes horses/whores...
and i don't trust the sales people in the stores to have any serious fashion backgrounds...

generally speaking- i think it falls upon the designer to be sure that the public (their customer) understands the work...
i just think that a website could be an efffective way to communicate directly with your audience and be more than just a billboard or a lookbook...
they could do their OWN blog post about the sleeves, for example...
why not?!

 

[luckyme]

thanks laika, down below is the image of the black version from the regulation lookbook. too bad they don't have a view of the back, because as with most of yy, the jacket has a lasting impression from the back. the plaid just knocked it up a notch and was a nice alternative to black. there is only one rack of yohji at barneys and that jacket was the only one, it hit me the second i saw it, and i felt lucky to have found it, not to mention it fits perfectly , like he had me in mind.

i'm sure IF will have more of the main collection, they seem to pick the pieces you love the most.

i also added a picture of the pleating on the back of the yang li top.

i have no doubt you will see me in both...

i'm glad you caught the post of the cutting class. i think the author must be involved somehow in patternmaking, she seems to understand construction quite a bit and certainly has a passion for tailoring. each season she posts new fabrication methods that highlight the techniques.

 

[runner]

so they just released these images of items from discord.


fashionpress

 

[softgrey]

thanks runner...
i don't remember seeing the scarf with the smoke pattern...
i really like that...
i'd also like a top or dress out of that print...

the sneakers confuse me...
do they have giant rhinestones?!...

 

[runner]

you are welcome softgrey
not sure what they are on the sneakers.
but some of the collection are to be on display from today until june 8 on the 38th (top) floor of mandarin oriental tokyo.
yes the smoke top and dress would be great.
seems like this is about beauty of disproportion rather than discord.


sumihito-oikawa

 

[softgrey]

looks like a great space- thanks runner...
it's nice how they laid the raw leather on the black wood platforms...
i think i see the great bag that stands by itself in the fourth pic- far right...

i guess that is an especially popular spot since the movie - lost in translation...?

 

[runner]

that spot is park hyatt tokyo (located in shinjuku), and on its top floor there is "new york bar" which had been rather famous before the movie, but yes since then especially internationally popular.
found one short description of the sneakers in the article on this at fashion-headline.
they are referred to as "pointed toe leather sneaker".
so it is unlikely that they are for you anyway.
of the other info, the photos are by hiroyuki arakawa whose work was also used on the textiles for F/W 2011.
discord, the first collection, available at isetan shinjuku, mitsukoshi ginza and nihonbashi (where mandarin oriental tokyo is located), YY flagship minami-aoyama.

 

[softgrey]

haha...
pointed sneakers are not for me...so true!...


it's funny that it's called the 'new york bar'...
i didn't know that...
though almost everyone i spoke to before my trip to japan suggested that i go there...
i think that actually made me NOT go there...
too obvious a choice...
plus- i figured there would be no japanese people there and i wanted to be with the locals, not the tourists...
...

looks very nice though...
i think i would probably like to have a drink there sometime...
just to check it out...
thanks for the info!

thanks also for the info about the photog...

 

[softgrey]

oh man...
it's like the man is inside my head...
or maybe i'm inside his?!...

look at this military cap...!!!
it's so much like the ones i posted recently in the hat thread...
japanese military style...
i'm guessing it might be from the REGULATION collection...?
that would make sense since it is a military cap, right?...

http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/women/yohji-yamamoto-peaked-cap-item-10703896.aspx

not sure yet how i feel about that grosgrain bow though...
and i would love it even more if it laced in back like the old style caps did...
but i guess that would make it super crazy expensive...

still...
it's pretty freaking awesome...

......

it says it's wool, but i thought that must be wrong because i can see the weave...
i thought it must be cotton- also it's for spring...
but then i realized that it's probably wool gab...
...

lovely...
and a much nicer texture and less stiff than cotton would be...
still not sold on the ribbon...
but it's subtle enough and i guess it adds some sweet, so that's good...