Yohji Yamamoto

[runner]

thanks for the report
yes there are some styles of kimono sleeve jackets. but as we know, their merchandise often turns out a bit more complicated than one would expect. there could be a few material variations too. and there should be exclusives. to tell the truth nani ga nandaka yoku wakannai / no idea what is what anymore. but the one with the slits in front on the runway seems to be this?

pics from here
http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/women/yohji-yamamoto/items.aspx
where they display relatively many pieces.
( also I like this shirt from there )

 

[runner]

this one too looks cool from the back

luisaviaroma

 

[softgrey]

yeah- i remember seeing that shirt in the runway photos and thinking it was odd that i hadn't seen it on any shopping sites or in stores...
most places seem to have chosen only one shirt, and it's the one with the funnel collar...
they both have the same body shape though...
and i am really not sold on it in the white...
it sort of sticks out and is really wide around the hip/thigh area...
i guess that is good if you wear it with one of these jackets though because it would stick out between the side slits...??

but i guess just as a shirt i prefer the black one...
the hood is very cool...

about the jackets- to be honest...
i was looking for the one you posted last, runner...
the one with the split tail in back...
IF doesn't have that one though and so i tried on the one with the front slits and found that it was really cool because none of these jackets have pockets and having the slits in front just worked really well and made it really comfortable to wear because they were placed just right for pant pocket access...

that is why i decided that one was the coolest one of them all...
it means that it can have a more relaxed feeling than the others and seemed like it was not as precious...though it could easily be quite formal as well...

one really does have to try them to get this understanding though, imho...
at least that is what i found...
as you say- there are quite a number of variations on the kimono sleeve, so it's not easy to understand what they each do and why they are different until you slide them on...

by the way...
that is how it feels...
they slide on...almost like a skin...
i had to adjust my posture once i had it on my shoulders...
it's a bit like putting on a pair of wings...
i felt it in my shoulders...
which was completely unexpected...

of course i didn't try on the one with the split back, but i suspect it is a bit boxy and not as curvaceous as the front split one, which would give it a completely different feeling to wear...
and in my case- because of my narrow shoulders, i think it would slide backwards from the weight of the sleeves (revealing my neck) , much like a real kimono probably would...
it would be a very different experience to wear each jacket, imo...

looking at farfetch almost made my head explode...
they have SO many more YY than usual, which seems to be due, in large part, to Atelier re-opening and now carrying womens clothing and selling on farfetch...
i had no idea...
but it seems like it might be possible for me to actually go and see more of it in person now...
...

to be honest- there are quite a few knits that look really good to me like this dress and this sweater...

 

[BetteT]

Softie ... credit please?

 

[softgrey]

^^if you read the post- it says they are from farfetch...
farfetch farfetch farfetch...

 

[softgrey]

thanks for the report
yes there are some styles of kimono sleeve jackets. but as we know, their merchandise often turns out a bit more complicated than one would expect. there could be a few material variations too. and there should be exclusives. to tell the truth nani ga nandaka yoku wakannai / no idea what is what anymore. but the one with the slits in front on the runway seems to be this?

pics from here
http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/women/yohji-yamamoto/items.aspx
where they display relatively many pieces.
( also I like this shirt from there )

yeah- it really is confusing...
but i think that's the jacket, yes...
in my mind i remembered it having two buttons and a notch collar...
but there isn't anything like that so it has to be this one...
i was just confusing all the jackets in my head...

but i don't have any jackets with a shawl collar like this, so, even though i wasn't sure about it at first, it seems to have grown on me now...
it's more like a dinner jacket with a shawl collar...
imo...
i couldn't even button the size 1 though...!!!
and i would want to button it because it is a shaped jacket...
probably i would even want a size 3, but i don't even know if they made it in that size...
the one with the split tail might be ok in a size 2 though...

**i imagine you might be right about seeing some of these things on yoox eventually since it seems that quite a few stores have bought this collection...


i sort of thought that i would just love everything and it would be so hard to choose a fave, especially because there are a lot of similarities in each piece of this collection...
and i do love a lot of it, but it is amazing to me how clear it has been to edit and narrow down the stand out items for me...
i can really see which woman would wear which pieces and which pieces are really meant for me...
it's really very cool...



*also i think the styling of the shawl collar split front jkt is bad there...
it looks way better with a full cropped pant and dark shirt, imo...
even with a t- shirt or tank top...you want some skin showing at the neck, imo
more like the lvm shot...or the runway...

 

[softgrey]

what i really imagine wearing it with is my giant jeans and maybe next season's junya mock crock oxfords...
...

and my YY cape and my Issey bao bao clutch...


atelier seems to have the hat- though it is CRAZY expensive!
...
i really do need to find the right one for myself so i will try to check that one...
but, knowing that i do lose hats, i would rather not have such a crazy expensive one~!

i'm growing out my hair right now - so maybe if just i wear it up, that will be almost as good as wearing a hat...
it does change things when one starts to put the hair up...
should be interesting...

 

[BetteT]

^^if you read the post- it says they are from farfetch...
farfetch farfetch farfetch...

Thanks!

looking at farfetch almost made my head explode...

This did not make it not clear that "farfetch" was where you actually got the photos. Better if you can just tuck it above or below the pics in the future, please?

 

[runner]

I see how the split front one is the best for you. will check about sizing.

yes seems like the styling with it must not be stiff like office. it has to be what is called iki.

as for the footwear, I guess some motorcycle style or even something punkish might be interesting as well with it.

the hat you wanted is "FY-H06-142-3". maybe it's good to go and see if the one atelier has is really it and most of all to try it on.



from FW 1994, just for reference.
my scan

 

[softgrey]

runner- every time you mention some sort of punkish shoes i think to myself, i really don't have any~!

but i do have these marsell shoes, which i should definitely wear more often...
blog.allegracolletti.com

and i just ordered these lanvin's from yoox - though i would really like them in black, i can't find them anywhere cause i am too late...

demo, i always like white shoes, so i will see how they are when they arrive...yoox.com

hmm- maybe the studded cdg's could even work with a little sock...


nice pic...
reminds me also- i really have to cut down my kimono from tokyo so i can be wearing that...
i haven't done it cause i can't decide how much i want to cut off...
it's time to make a decision about that!!!
.........

i was trying on some hats this weekend but i think you are right runner...
i need to go and see the one at atelier...
i think i just need to go there in general...

 

[softgrey]

update- the lanvins arrived and i don't like them AT ALL...
going back immediately...

 

[runner]

yes it would be great to have fun at atelier trying on this or that.

so the split front jacket comes in 1 and 2.
they are different around the button by 3 cm.
available only in that black gabardine.
( this is the story of japanese market though. so, again, there might be someone overseas who has exclusives )

the final delivery had been done this week. all from the collection is out now.


btw, we can see some pieces from nocturne here.
there are cut-out shoes too.


yohjiyamamoto.kobe.daimaru
yohjiyamamoto.shizuoka.isetan

 

[softgrey]

i've tried twice now to respond to this thread but the system keeps saying the token is expired...
give me a break!...
...

this is just a test before i write another comment that gets deleted...

 

[runner]

captain, looks like it's best to copy what you wrote just before clicking on "submit reply", especially if it is long.

 

[softgrey]

yes- i should have done that...thx runner...
...

so- i got to try the hat and now i understand why the price is what it is...
i have never seen or felt such a thing...
*and i have seen and felt a LOT of hats...
it is soft and moldable while still completely retaining it's shape...
it is beautiful material and just the most perfect, perfect black fedora...
it almost feels like velvet..though it is rabbit hair...

because it is so malleable, the back of the brim can be worn up or down, according to the outfit...
and one can pinch the crown to make it the perfect shape for oneself...
it's the kind of hat i think would become like a good friend...
kind of like the way yohji wears his hats all the time...
this is that kind of hat...
you mold it and shape it and make it uniquely your own...
i actually crushed it in my hands and it sprang back to its shape easily...
i guess it must take hours of shaping and shaving to get the material to behave that way...
also- it is not lined, which i think has something to do with that...
but there is a beautiful silk band inside...
it is real luxury...
nothing like it...

i also tried on another style with a wider brim...
it has 'yohji' punched out on the side of the hat with a blue bandana lining showing thru a bit...
it's also a really good shape, but the material feels different and the whole vibe is a bit more dramatic...imho...
it's not bad- it's just sort of too "in your face"...
it's very "look at me. i'm cool"
not for me...

i also got a chance to see the discord 'geta' bag...
it's so great, but this version has yohji's signature etched really large on the front flap...
...
if it was on the back or under the flap, ok...but not right on the front like that...
come on!
......

 

[softgrey]

runner-

thanks for the info on the jkt...
what i tried was the gabardine and i think it is really best in that fabric...
i saw the longer jkt in another fabric today and it's nice, but not as good, imo...

i also saw that dress you posted above- not great...
...

i haven't seen those sweaters anywhere, but i wonder if they are the same wool as the sweater my friend got...
that is some of the softest wool knit i have ever felt in my life...!!!
i love the long one with the buttons...
seems like it wants to be worn with the buttons undone and a long white shirt under it...
pretty cool...

the long one i posted above is much too thin for my liking...almost sheer and not at all what i was imagining...
i was imagining something more like the one you posted...
i really like the sleeves rolled like that, too...
personally- i'm not sure what would happen if i wore something like that since i have curves...
it could be ok or it could look like a lumpy bumpy mess...
depends how it hangs once the buttons are opened...
though, i feel like the knit is so thick that it will hang well...
(if it is the knit i am thinking of)...
and i cannot tell from the pic how wide it is...
it's certainly a very timeless and cool piece...


thanks for posting that...
...

i like both coats...nice length...
the hooded one seems like it would look cool with everything...
another very timeless piece...

it's a good season for yohji...

 

[runner]

thanks for the report so it seems that the hat is one of the best things, but was your nose alright with the rabbit hair ?

the heavy knits are both pour homme, and if you visit the mens section of those shopping sites, they might be there. sorry for the confusion. they come in one size (but available in navy as well as black). although they are to be rather oversized on you, I guess you could wear them. what I'm afraid of is that they might be too heavy-weighted. anyway you are right, the long one seems to be fun the buttons undone.

the coats too are homme stuff. but the hooded one comes in 1,2,3,4, (though black only) and so should be more easily compatible with femme.


yohjiyamamoto.shinjuku.marui

 

[softgrey]

^^^haha...
...

it is really the long angora hairs that make me crazy itchy...
the hat is very very closely shaved which is why it feels like velvet...
therefore, it doesn't affect me at all...
i checked that...


ah- they are menswear~!
that explains the unusual length of the coats then~


i guess the sweater would be like a dress on me...
...

it might be heavy..yes...
but also- the neck might be funny...
mens' t-nks are always looser and longer than womens'...
though it might wind up like the kind of loose neck on most japanese t nks...
the shoulders would be ok cause they are raglan style...
and the sleeves look good rolled, so that's not an issue...
it's really the neck and the "weight", as you say...

i looked on farfetch and found it so i checked the fibre content...
http://www.farfetch.com/jp/shopping...30959.aspx?storeid=9144&ffref=lp_pic_57_1_lst
the womens' sweater i saw is 100% wool and this is only 80% wool/20% nylon...
so i don't really know what it's like...
but it probably needs that nylon when it's so long to keep the shape, etc...
looks great in that pic with the buttons open like that ...

wow...

 

[softgrey]

oh- it would look excellent with something red underneath!
like that pic i posted earlier of the dress...

or a long tube skirt...
yes- it has lots of possiblities...

frankly- i'd wear that whole menswear look too...


the coats would almost definitely swim on me...
but i already have a boxy hooded yohji jkt with big snaps...
or i could wear my TSE cashmere...
or...
i have lots of men's style coats, really...
haha...

 

[softgrey]

one thing- does the hat come in sizes?
cause i think the two hats i tried on were different sizes...
the one with the wider brim and name on it was definitely smaller...
though it could have something to do with the lining, i get the feeling it was really a smaller size...

...