My current list, since I've yet to see Lanvin and Miu Miu's complete collections and I left one spot open because I couldn't think of any more.
Alexander McQueen- A brilliant return to form for McQueen. As far as themes are concerned it was borderline retrospective, but after a lackluster fall and shockingly bad spring this was a more than welcome comeback.
Versace- one of the strongest collections Versace as done in years, it was focused, clean and surprisingly modest.
Narciso Rodriguez- another return to form after a few seasons of experimental volume from the master of understated sexuality.
Rochas- yet again Olivier added ampther layer to the story he's working at Rochas injecting a harder edge to the normally soft vocabulary.
Roberto Cavalli- Surprisingly tasteful, shockingly devoid of excess skin, and a bit toned down, yet it had a luxury that Roberto has never achieved before (plus I'm a sucker for Poiret influences)
Jean Paul Gaultier- Aside from the randomness of the dogs and cats on the runway the clothes were just beautiful, there's really nothing else to say about it.
Viktor and Rolf- Nothing new from this duo, but it was an interesting subversion of traditional feminine chic.
Christian Dior- Beneath the wigs, shades and odd soundtrack the clothes were dark and beautiful with a killer rock and roll edge.
Sophia Kokosalaki- I'm not terribly familiar with her work, except for her wonderful draping techniques, so I don't know how it measures up to past seasons, but there were a lot of clothes in that collection that I just loved.
I feel like it's such a predictable list, but there weren't any real surprises this season, with the exception of Cavalli doing a collection that I dound extremely appealing.
letdowns- Galliano, Balenciaga, Prada, Vuitton.
.. those "old shoes"
