McQueen S/S 2025 Paris

[Irere]

I like this more than I ever liked Sarah Burton's collection. Nobody will ever be able to do McQueen justice again but at least there are some beautiful looks here. The main problem here is the absence of a clear point of view but some of these tailored jackets look great.

Really? Because this collection really quotes Sarah Burton far more than Lee McQueen. The black-and-red color scheme? That's Sarah Burton. After his early London years, Lee McQueen really only returned to black-and-red for The Horn of Plenty. Sarah Burton solidified the combination as house code over the last decade, largely beginning with her S/S 2014 collection (the "African" show). The big feather coats? Those come from Sarah Burton's A/W 2012 collection. The roses dangling from the bag? Sarah Burton.

 

[tourbillions]

Really? Because this collection really quotes Sarah Burton far more than Lee McQueen. The black-and-red color scheme? That's Sarah Burton. After his early London years, Lee McQueen really only returned to black-and-red for The Horn of Plenty. Sarah Burton solidified the combination as house code over the last decade, largely beginning with her S/S 2014 collection (the "African" show). The big feather coats? Those come from Sarah Burton's A/W 2012 collection. The roses dangling from the bag? Sarah Burton.

For some reason many people gladly dismiss Burton's Mcqueen even though she has successfully moved the brand into something timeless and covetable. Her Mcqueen will definitely play an equally big role in the future of the brand as the original. unless along the way they hire someone like demna who will just trash the whole brand and make it their own streetwear brand.

 

[Irere]

unless along the way they hire someone like demna who will just trash the whole brand and make it their own streetwear brand.

Didn't they already do that with McGRRR?

 

[tourbillions]

Didn't they already do that with McGRRR?

it could have been worst... i somehow see something raw in this new mcqueen guys work that may/may not take shape into something good in the future. His tailoring needs practice but he seems to be nerding out on the archives, maybe he will be confident after a few seasons and turn it his own while respecting mcqueen and burton.

 

[Bernie Flood]

i do think Sarah got stale at Mcqueen and shaking things up makes sense and she might have new energy at givenchy but it can also be dull and just beautiful like her Mcqueen was for long time.

Mc grrrr is just the wrong guy for the job, does not mean it was wrong for Sarah to move on.

SHE'S GOING TO GIVENCHY? I WASNT INFORMED

 

[jeanclaude]

Those attempts at draping the front of a coat are laughable!
Kering keeps trying to transform McQueen into McDonald´s: corporate, friendly, cheap to produce and disposable.

 

[tourbillions]

corporate, friendly, cheap to produce and disposable.

ive already adjusted my mind set into this so i start judging mcqueen guys new work as it is and save myself from disappointment. As a streetwear and cheap brand competing against demna his mcqueen is miles ahead.

 

[PDFSD]

ive already adjusted my mind set into this so i start judging mcqueen guys new work as it is and save myself from disappointment. As a streetwear and cheap brand competing against demna his mcqueen is miles ahead.

nahhhhh!!!! this is not true and you know it :-)
Arguably Demna has at least sense of cut and proportions and is sharper and when he does cheap (which is all the time!!!!!!) it still saved by some sort of sense of knowledge or eye for proportions and shapes and cut and backed by margiela references for the cool cringe undertones he is so great at.

Technically Demana and his team are better at manipulating fabric and proportions, this is industry wide they have moments that other tried to figure out how they accomplished things in can tell you from experience, that's why it's so frustrating to see how silly gimmicks are used more than before to cover up for non direction of his repetitive silly Balenciaga later years

McGrrr doing bit more pretty glamour can't hide or trumpet over the fact that technically and design wise even trashy Balenciaga has more excellence still.

this comes from a person that apart from getting balenciaga by demna as a kind gift i never would be caught dead in it and find what he does mostly cringe.

but McGrr is to clownish naive design alla JWA style doesn't fit when you want to be edgy and dark it just ended up being too round and not sharp in many ways

 

[Phuel]

it could have been worst... i somehow see something raw in this new mcqueen guys work that may/may not take shape into something good in the future. His tailoring needs practice but he seems to be nerding out on the archives, maybe he will be confident after a few seasons and turn it his own while respecting mcqueen and burton.

Interesting. But you're being too kind.

What you see as nerding out on McQueen’s archive, all I see is someone with the creativity, talent, and skills of Dapper Dan sloppily ravaging the original designs into mangled, juvenile mediocrity.

Intentional or not, everything has such a sloppy medley approach to referencing McQueen’s codes: It’s the McQueen tapas. Why does the genteel, impossibly dreamscape romance of “The Girl Who Lived In A Tree” sleepwalking beauty’s empire waist design have anything to do with the “Joan Of Arc” warrior’s razor-sharp, aggressively epic armoury shown together in this offering…?!?!?! He’s just thoughtlesslyy throwing every McQueen signature, along with the kitchen sink, in hopes something, anything sticks for the children on social. Can't abide by such spineless mediocrity as a lead. I’d rather see Elena Velez installed at McQueen, frankly.

 

[tourbillions]

Interesting. But you're being too kind.

What you see as nerding out on McQueen’s archive, all I see is someone with the creativity, talent, and skills of Dapper Dan sloppily ravaging the original designs into mangled, juvenile mediocrity.

Intentional or not, everything has such a sloppy medley approach to referencing McQueen’s codes: It’s the McQueen tapas. Why does the genteel, impossibly dreamscape romance of “The Girl Who Lived In A Tree” sleepwalking beauty’s empire waist design have anything to do with the “Joan Of Arc” warrior’s razor-sharp, aggressively epic armoury shown together in this offering…?!?!?! He’s just thoughtlesslyy throwing every McQueen signature, along with the kitchen sink, in hopes something, anything sticks for the children on social. Can't abide by such spineless mediocrity as a lead. I’d rather see Elena Velez installed at McQueen, frankly.

i just let go any expectations i had for mcqueen the moment burton at givenchy was announced. just please never show t shirts and polo shirts in the runway.

 

[ellearchivist]

Do you think it was a conscious effort by whoever did the scenography to hide the shoes with all that smoke? I actually quite liked the horsey ones last time out, almost bought a pair. So this is a very strange move. If they use the same person for next seasons show then it’s almost like the kering powers are purposefully working against Sean.

 

[Irere]

Do you think it was a conscious effort by whoever did the scenography to hide the shoes with all that smoke? ... it’s almost like the kering powers are purposefully working against Sean.

If so, give that person a raise.

 

[justpassingthrough]

I’m sorry but what is going on here??? Poor girls feet slippin & slidin 😕😕

 

[PDFSD]

slippin & slidin .........just like the Mc Queen management dealings with paying tax in italy lol


December 9, 2024
Kering in Talks With Italy to Settle McQueen Tax Dispute: Rtrs
news.bloombergtax.com

Kering is negotiating with Italian tax authorities to settle a tax probe centred around its Alexander McQueen brand, Reuters reports, citing two people familiar with the matter.

• Prosecutors in Florence had opened a probe for omitted tax declarations from 2016 to 2022 after police alleged Alexander McQueen failed to declare €60 million to €70 million in taxable income
• Prosecutors and tax authorities argue the tax should have been paid in Italy and not Switzerland, the people added

 

[ellearchivist]

I’m sorry but what is going on here??? Poor girls feet slippin & slidin 😕😕
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Guess this is why they had smoke on the runway!

 

[Irere]

I’m sorry but what is going on here??? Poor girls feet slippin & slidin 😕😕
View attachment 1332351

"The Brutalist" describes any stylist who puts his or client in those horrible McGRRR clothes.