McQueen S/S 2025 Paris

[bc collector]

For me this show was a massive improvement from his debut, massive.
We can all agree that we will never get McQueen in the dark version of yore, that's a thing of the past. But I thought that McGirr this time got his s**t together and delivered a much more focused and commercially appealing collection. The shoes department has still a lot of work to do, but, hey, did anybody care about the shoes when Lee was till at the helm of the house? (and please spare me the reference to Plato's Atlantis armadillo platforms).

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I'm so lost with all the rumored changes and what actually happened lol: is it the same hack as last season?! I thought they had fired him!

It's the same one lol. I don't know, I feel bad like he got the dream job but clearly has no idea what he's doing and knows it. Same with people above him. This really just reminds me of the new Gucci.

 

[90sfan]

Very Riccardo Tisci!?!?

 

[thiago:)]

Not being able to see the shoes that will be forever on websites was a choice…

 

[jeremydante]

Still not sure I have developed as clear an opinion or thought process for what he's done since taking the helm.
But I am watching. Still processing, with cross comparison of his debut and this collection.

I am still wanting to see what is done with campaigns and then also publicity with editorial placements and covers, over an extended period of time. House code allows so much to be done with McQueen.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

The bad tailoring threw it off especially since its part of the brand DNA. Irrespective of the theatrics and extreme styles, McQueen is always perfectly tailored. That said I didnt mind the collection, looks like someone that will eventually grow into his own whether at this brand or elsewhere. Those giant platforms with the skinny heels are scary.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

This buffoonery of a collection (and Sean’s tenure) is the epitome of what is wrong with the industry and why it soon will have no personality or magic or excellence. There are no stories and then to make it worse there are rarely any good clothes.

I don’t believe or even want a new creative director to rigorously follow the designs and stories of their predecessor or founder. Especially in houses born of creativity as those stories can be so personal and a point of view that just cannot be replicated. A new CD is required though to take on the nuances and pillars that built and keep up the house. Alexander Mcqueen was a house of many things - tailoring, defiance, controversy, innovation, and more - but most consequential of them all, it was a house of story telling. I do not expect Sean or any CD to tell a story how Lee or any founding designer would have. It would be inauthentic and that is corrosive. I do expect Sean to tell A compelling story. I was not Sarah’s biggest cheerleader but at times she presented a collection that was clearly her point of view and her story and told how she wanted to, and they were stronger and persuasive. Sean just filters the top-most layers of the brand - almost as if his mood boards are just 1st page Google Image search of “Alexander McQueen” - through his abbreviated and immature ideas of what is cool and “it-girl/boy.”

We have empty vessels leading our industry. It will be our demise.

 

[fenty]

Okayyy he's finding his momentum slowly...

 

[Olaffo]

Well he clearly saved his *** with that collection. Improvement but then, there's no pov bc only McQueen had a pov and Burton was slowly diluting his ideas. Now we have full blown commercialisation and commodification of that fashion house. Don't think there is anyone who could actually hold the stitches together. This house is imploding before our own eyes due to immense greed and lack of understanding of Lee's legacy.

But the fact that they can't cut a proper suit for men is beyond my understanding...

 

[philophile]

He might potentially have what is needed, but his work is still just too timid and understated. He tones it down too much. However, the sweater I've been seeing in editorials this season proves that he might possibly just have it inside him. With McQueen more is more and you should not take it down any notch. McQueen was one of those rare, crazy geniuses from a working class family, a fashion industry outsider. But with people hiring nepos all the time, how are we supposed to find anything that looks slightly different to what we always see?

 

[tourbillions]

awee mcqueen guy low key delivered.... better tailoring, some influences of burtons mcqueen (way easier to emulate than trying hard to go edgy as the man). Seriously can find some amazing fashion pieces in this. He seems to have gotten rid of the "ugly edgy" looks he wanted to push in the debut.

Surprisingly his debut collection looks good in the online site and even in the campaigns. Either they improved the tailoring for the campaign or i just cant hate my favorite brand.

Cant wait to see where he brings the brand.

 

[Salvatore]

That was not as bad as I was preparing myself to witness. In fact, I liked that gold sequin jacket a lot. Maybe he will workout for a few more seasons if he continues on this side of things and digs in.

 

[TaylorBinque]

I was not as offensive as his first collection. Definitely the suites has intervened. Because what are at the stores right now are complete nightmare. A friend who bought McQueen all the time was appalled by what is there.

This collection feel like if you give it to a normal person and design a nice McQueen collection. Nothing to write off, nothing new, nothing exciting. Kering clearly lacks those.

 

[Machinegumm]

While this is better than his first outing, it's still really underwhelming. And it looks too much like Burton and less like McQueen.
Problem is, McQueen's ideas often came from very dark places. Unless you hire someone who finds inspiration in the disturbing and unsettling, then the brand is going to move further and further away from it's foundation.

 

[MModa]

Beautiful! Bravo!

 

[MulletProof]

Definitely the suites has intervened.

yes .. you just smell the tighter grip via weekly teams meetings, unscheduled visits just to see 'how everything's doing' and financial reports looming over like a drone. I feel for him and yes he did show a collection that's 'a full on Monet'.. it certainly looks like a regular fashion week collection, but zoom in and 😬.. these guys never tormented themselves with passion, the impossibility of perfectionism, and of course, something outlandish like poetry, they're literally just yay'ing and nay'ing looks and giving green lights to what someone like McQueen would call a doodle.

 

[EDEN21]

The problem with turning McQueen into a house to continue on ad infinitum under a procession of successive designers like a Chanel or Dior is, as GoldenPetals put it, McQueen wasn't a "look," a style other designers can channel whilst tweaking and putting their own spin on it. With Lee every collection was sui generis, the common thread was Lee's genius. In my opinion there will never be a designer that satisfies the role of CD at McQueen, not because there aren't any designers talented enough out there, but because there simply isn't anyone with Lee McQueen's brain.

 

[mteb123]

Was this an upgrade from his debut? Yes!! Were there some good pieces / looks? Yes!! It felt more elevated less clunky than his debut which was a good thing in my eyes!!

Happy for Sean as he received a lot of backlash for his debut!!

There is still work to be done.. the Casting needs work, he needs his tribe of girls… The Accessories & Shoes need work, this collection would’ve gone even further with good bags & shoes.. The tailoring needs work… that should really be a given!! And over all work needs to be done to create a story and the develop who this new McQueen woman is..

Otherwise I’m happy to see where he can go specially if he continues to improve!!