REview from internet FWD
Balenciaga: Gets Down With Goan Futurism
Godfrey Deeny
February 27th, 2007 @ 00:50 AM
If you want to know how hipsters will be dressing next fall then check out the thrilling, global traveler, posh Goan meets Japanese privately educated school gal Balenciaga collection presented Tuesday morning in Paris.
Balenciaga's creative director Nicolas Ghesquiere is such an influential designer; professional copyists have probably already been emailed images of his striking fall 2007 collection to rip him off. If there's any "dictator" in fashion it is Ghesquiere, whose shows set the style agenda globally. No wonder his communications staff restrict access to less than 200 to his morning show, making it the hottest ticket in fashion.
"It's a journey, not a trip, where you need sportswear, Balenciaga sportswear," smiled Ghesquiere backstage, explaining the craftily eclectic and thoroughly attractive selection of clothes he showed in a newly darkened show space on rue de Cassette in St Germain.
Tie-dyed posh hippie dresses opened the show, though cut in diagonal panels and finished with trims of gold and silver tassels they were unlike anything this peripatetic critic ever noticed in Anjuna market.
One of Ghesquiere's greatest tricks in pulling disparate elements into savvy new wholes: he used UK worsted fabrics, the sort the Queen buys for her own regiments, but in dramatic purples or yellow stripes and then cut the material into posh teenage college jackets and fracks, finishing them with beautiful hand-painted buttons. The results, always surprising and eye catching, looked fantastic on an excellent casting of the hippest catwalkers in Paris – Gemma, Raquel, Natasha, Lara and the hot new gal of the moment, Catherine McNeill.
Half his opening looks were paired with jodhpurs, cut in khaki or battered gray and finished with Asia graphic lettering, and then worn with some remarkable boots. Part articulated science fiction warrior wear, part ski boot accessory, they all looked fantastic and, happily for the house, hard to copy. Other standouts included multi-colored bouclé wool and miniature mirror boleros, multi-stripe trimmed sweat pants and even a charmingly absurd all black dhoti or two, paired with a now "classic" curvy Balenciaga shearling bomber.
Booming off with Led Zeppelin's classic "Immigrant's Song," the gals prowled down the catwalk before an eclectic audience – everyone from Asia babe actress Maggie Cheung to New York Times mega editor Bill Keller. Like the clothes themselves, the crowd was eclectically charming, and nicely unexpected.