Celine S/S 10 Paris

[lovelorn]

^ Agreed. That's what I meant by 'basic'. It was just too easy? There didn't seem to be any more to it. I don't mind it being basic at all, but the cuts were pretty unflattering, even on the models.

 

[chrisss]

Long awaited, and it was worth it! It was basic, sure - but very wearable, very beautiful and lots of interesting touches that makes it stand out. I'm glad Phoebe's back.

 

[khyrk]

I like this collection and the minimalistic take.

 

[mikeijames]

shaking & crying

i am shaking and crying right along side you!! honestly, as a fan of ivana omazic, i must say, that phoebe philo simply took this work to another level. like, they're not even on the same playing field. i am totally enamoured with this summer leather trend and phoebe has done it better than i have seen almost anywhere -- i'm quite besotted with the leather piece presented at celine's lvmh sister, loewe, so again, that's saying alot. i mean, there's such precision to the leather looks presented here that really they have the longevity to get worn over one's brisk spring ensembles and carried right over to one's fall/winter wardrobe seamlessly.

i can't wait to see how she'll revive the boogie if she's already doing this much with leather. and can we talk about those shoes? i mean, game's on, hannah....

 

[disco54]

Yes, I'm sad to say I tend to agree...

It's nice enough and it's very well executed, of course (I'd expect nothing less!), but I just don't think I'm ready for a '90s minimalistic take on the '70s, again, yet.

Especially as I feel this sort of thing has only, really, been away for a few years...

I don't really want fashion cycles to be just 15 or 17 years long, personally - 25 years seems more natural, to me (and was the norm until fairly recently, after all).

I appreciate that fashion often goes a bit minimal during recessions, but I don't think this is a typical recession, at all.

I want something to lift my spirits, not depress me - especially in this economy and TBH, if I wore this, I'd feel as though I was paying a penance for something I haven't done.

Perhaps that's the clever thing about it, though? Most of us weren't to blame for this particular economic slump, but the ones who were, obviously, still have a lot of money, so maybe they'll buy this as a penance? Albeit a fake one!

Certainly, nothing makes me think; 'Oh, I must have that!'; whereas, when Phoebe was at Chloe, something almost always did.

Maybe I just like the work Phoebe did for Chloe, more than I do/will her work for Celine - just as I tend to like the work Lagerfeld did for Chloe, more than I do his work for Chanel?

actually the whole fashion cycle thing has become shorter because of the internet , but this whole decade has been a mix and quite frankly i hate anything 80s because I lived through the horror of it.

 

[disco54]

This collection is very strong but I would like to Phoebe use different fabrics and less leather . 10/10 for this collection none the less.

 

[gius]

style.com

PARIS, October 5, 2009

By Sarah Mower

Phoebe Philo has always had a great sense of who she is. That centeredness informs her way of designing clothes that reflect fashion as it's really lived, rather than anything arty or conceptual, and it gives her work the vitality so many young women identified with during her wildly successful pre-marriage, pre-family run at Chloé. Well, four years down the line, she's back—different house, different mid-thirties phase of life—but with possibly even more directness and focus at Celine. "I just thought I'd clean it up. Make it strong and powerful—a kind of contemporary minimalism," she said.

The precise lines and simple equations of luxuriously sporty elements read as a brisk mission to make classy utilitarianism sexy: not "again," but for the first time for Philo's own generation. The pairing of sharp, whipcord-trimmed skirts, fine leather tees, piqué shirting, over-the-head cross-laced dresses, and modified military jackets was shot through with pragmatism and a crucial underlying appreciation of classic Parisian taste. At some points, the Chloé Phoebe was visible again. It was fully there in the super-flattering cut of her high-waist, wide-leg pant, and the genius of the wedge sandal that made every single look work. The difference was that the restrained palette of camel, beige, white, and black had the full stamp of a grown-up sensibility, one that also carried the bat squeak of Helmut Newton-esque eroticism in the semi-sheer nude fabrics, and the plain yet provocative use of leather.

Quite possibly that charge doesn't sizzle in the runway photographs, but every young woman in the room felt it. As the audience exited, a general cry of, "Oh, I just want to be like that," was ricocheting through the crowd. And that, as we seem to remember, is just what they said when Philo's Chloé went into vertical liftoff.

 

[Zazie]

I am in minority Not feeling this at all so far... I prefer Ivana's work for Celine. And also for me it looks like YSL for some reason

I completely agree that it is YSL, a bit of Narcisco Rodriguez, etc. but when Pilati did it, it was "boring" "nothing new", "seen it all before". I also think Ivana has a more innovative and adventurous spirit, but Celine is a very staid brand. That said, I don't see any of the old Chloe spirit in this collection, for which I'm glad. This is a very Michael Kors for Celine type of collection, but updated to look more youthful, so I'm glad for Phoebe Philo that she's changed to become more matured and classic instead of the old giggly-girly Chloe. This will sell to the old Celine customer, and win over some of the old Chloe customers who are die-hard PP fans, so in all business calculations, this works even though no grounds are broken.

 

[FogUponLA]

This is effortless beauty at its best.

 

[lamies022]

Simple but chic and quite sumptuous

 

[maimon]

OMG Phoebeeee XD she did it again!

love the colors, love the cutting and loooove the shoes

 

[ponytrot]

PHOEBE'S BACK!!!!!!!!!!!

f**k YEAH.

(couldn't help myself)

 

[BerlinRocks]

I completely agree that it is YSL, a bit of Narcisco Rodriguez, etc. but when Pilati did it, it was "boring" "nothing new", "seen it all before". I also think Ivana has a more innovative and adventurous spirit, but Celine is a very staid brand. That said, I don't see any of the old Chloe spirit in this collection, for which I'm glad. This is a very Michael Kors for Celine type of collection, but updated to look more youthful, so I'm glad for Phoebe Philo that she's changed to become more matured and classic instead of the old giggly-girly Chloe. This will sell to the old Celine customer, and win over some of the old Chloe customers who are die-hard PP fans, so in all business calculations, this works even though no grounds are broken.

this is fun how, to me, your post invisibly highlights all the paradox i read here and there.


most people didn't like Michael Kors for Céline - but you found that it is "a very Michael Kors for Celine type of collection, but updated to look more youthful". and you are right, imo.

people who like this collection also think that Pilati "was "boring" "nothing new", "seen it all before"".


and people didn't like Ivanka (obviously, as she got fired), but you nailed that she was more "innovative" .....

all this makes me confirm that people like Phoebe more than they like her work for Céline - as they obviously miss "the eye" for noticing things you + others nailed.
Phoebe needs her own brand. Everybody knows that !


Sign her for her own thing !

 

[lakomka]

all this makes me confirm that people like Phoebe more than they like her work for Céline - as they obviously miss "the eye" for noticing things you + others nailed.
Phoebe needs her own brand. Everybody knows that !

Complietly agree with that statement!
I'm sure, that if it wasn't Phoebe's show, half of the people in this thread wouldn't even stopped for comment

 

[dazzling85]

a few nice pieces but this is not celiene this is very much Chloe.
Dissapointing.

 

[Zazie]

this is fun how, to me, your post invisibly highlights all the paradox i read here and there.


most people didn't like Michael Kors for Céline - but you found that it is "a very Michael Kors for Celine type of collection, but updated to look more youthful". and you are right, imo.

people who like this collection also think that Pilati "was "boring" "nothing new", "seen it all before"".


and people didn't like Ivanka (obviously, as she got fired), but you nailed that she was more "innovative" .....

all this makes me confirm that people like Phoebe more than they like her work for Céline - as they obviously miss "the eye" for noticing things you + others nailed.
Phoebe needs her own brand. Everybody knows that !


Sign her for her own thing !

Heh...BerlinRocks, if you really want to get Freudian, the SS10 YSL collection has a huge early Chloe vibe about it in the white poplin/cotton, flounces and other feminine touches, but it is hated by Chloe fans.....

Ok, the reverse question may be asked - why would I prefer a YSL white blouse over a similar Chloe. It isn't that I like Pilati more than Philo, it's that the YSL cuts a better puff sleeve. Bruno Pieters cuts the best sleeve, then perhaps YSL - I'm not even sure if it's Pilati's own tailoring ability or it's his access to the archives, but it really stands better than the run-of-the-mill affair.

I'm happy for Philo that she has such a staunch base - some designers are just crazy popular, eg. Alber Elbaz, "the huggable bear", and Philo with her young child exemplifies a real working woman and many of her fans identify with her. She is genuinely liked and adored by a lot of women. I find her talent as a designer better than Kors, on par with Stella McCartney, but not in Elbaz's league. At least she's smart and sharp about taking the design directions - keep the Celine ship steady and following the direction of the more respected French collections, neutrals, minimalism, and I too can admire a savvy woman, just not her designs. Honest to god, I respect her a lot more for going for a more sophisticated, minimal look this time. Yes, there are many more talented designers out there, but business is business - can't blame the houses for wanting to make money and cashing in on their designer's popularity!

Not sure myself about Pilati's talent, but he manages to capture a certain "YSL class" in his YSL collections and brings it up to date, eg. last season's hated collection was strikingly "Tina Chow" to me, without getting into cliches. Still, it's a far cry from what NG had achieved with Balenciaga, but aeons better than Galliano and Dior. Like NG, Raf Simons, Pilati has a very private personality, so not much there to "market".

So many aspects to the psychology of fashion,...this is what makes it so entertaining ultimately.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

No offense guys, but this is really ugly. I feel like it lacks something, perhaps innovation? The skirts look quite.... off. That greenish leather is grotesque. The nude tops would be unflattering for most normal women. It's sad that the best thing about this is a single trouser that was repeated numerous times. Overall this is cheap and uninteresting. Hanna's first Chloe show pwns this trash heap.
Overrated.

 

[chalk_love]

I hope some detail shots surface of the shoes, they remind me of Chloé S/S 2006 wedges, my favourite shoes ever.

coutorture and style.com

 

[balmain1914]

Whose foot is it on the right side?The hair.....oooops

 

[honeyisle]

ew you're right. lol