Let’s ask a question straight out: is it too much for Christopher Kane to be working both on his own line and also with Donatella Versace? The Scottish designer’s show seemed to have all the elements to meet the fashion world’s great expectations. But without being a flop, it seemed a slight collection.
The premise, the designer said backstage, was looking back at his childhood — yet how could a 28-year-old remember lava lamps from the 1970s — unless they arrived very late in Glasgow? But the young kid’s desire for that distant waterbed and glob, glob liquid furnishings era apparently inspired a weird fashion decoration: what looked like transparent pencil cases crossed with medical drip-feed plastic bags, and placed at the hips or necklines of little black dresses. Tons of them.
“I wanted to do something more sterile. I am tired of doing decorative pieces,” Mr. Kane said. Although just how the granny crochet patchworks, in wool or printed onto leather — or maybe plastic, fitted this scenario was baffling.
A Christopher Kane show is always intriguing for its original viewpoint. But whatever imaginative creation was developing this season, it seemed to be still born.