Designer & Fashion Insiders Behavior (PLEASE READ POST #1 BEFORE POSTING) | Page 111 | the Fashion Spot

Designer & Fashion Insiders Behavior (PLEASE READ POST #1 BEFORE POSTING)

re LVMH employees: €1,879 a month before taxes for a full-time (I assume) employee who's been with the company for 18 years is pretty shocking.


My understanding is that people who work at department store beauty counters in the US are employed by the beauty brands and earn a base pay and sales incentives based on volume. Is this the case in Europe?

if so, selling beauty at a department store could be much more lucrative than working at Sephora.
 
yeah I think he was in Epstein's phone list or something, it came out a couple of years ago.

Honestly, this case bores me to tears, I don't follow it, but the dumb headlines certainly follow me "friend, lover, fixer? Ghislaine Maxwell prosecutors home in on nature of Epstein relationship".. :meow:.. he had a foot fetish and she had a fetish about his foot fetish, boohoo. And they were both extremely unattractive..

Also he was killed so what’s even the point of crucifying his pet..

She's not being persecuted, she's being prosecuted. Not for being unattractive (which for the record I don't think she is) or having poor morals, but for committing crimes. Crimes committed against women or girls are just as worthy of prosecutorial attention as any other crimes.
 
^ I’d like to dive more into the fact that he was killed, the scapegoat that she is, the fact that those in her defense will be allowed to testify anonymously and many other things that are such a parody of justice aimed at spectators who get something out of a ~justice has been served~ spectacle (but don’t dig deep enough to get anyone from the two parties involved, let’s focus on this idiot and roll with it)… but.. like I said, this case is tedious as hell lol…. and maybe it’s because what they were into grosses me out but they look pretty gross to me, even in their heyday (the Donald Trump/Clinton days).
 
Balenciaga blacklists Vogue Paris?

It's a very long thread and 10 years later it's still only ~anonymous sources, but long story short, back in 2010, Balenciaga blacklisted the whole VP team from their fashion shows, stopped lending them samples for photoshoots, ceased advertising immediately.

Rumour had it a few Balenciaga runway samples magically turned up at Max Mara's Milan studio to be dissected, studied etc. Those samples were originally on loan to VP for photoshoots and coincidentally Carine was consulting for Max Mara even all the way back then. Just for context, when NG was there, Balenciaga was fiercely protective of their runway samples and very selective on which magazines got the honour :rolleyes: of getting them for photoshoots (slightly OT but just like now with LV, at some point NG enforced a full look policy with Balenciaga as well...just saying).

Again, take this with a huge grain of salt, tFS was a completely different place back then, 16 pages of speculation, conspiracies and petty fun just going by a couple of trashy gossip blogs. :lol:

The reality i think is more similar to the one for Hedi: MAS left VP and Nicolas showed his support by banning them.

The sample story was too big to be true. And when Carine left Vogue, she was invited back at Balenciaga. Emmanuelle however, never got invited until Wang came.
 
What happened between Balenciaga and Vogue Paris? Please indulge me!
Like Lola pointed out, I remember reading somewhere VP was banned by NG probably because MAS was fired at that time
 
Like Lola pointed out, I remember reading somewhere VP was banned by NG probably because MAS was fired at that time
My theory has always been that MAS wanted to be able to do VP, VI and Vogue US/W at the same time, while doing Balenciaga and her other consulting jobs and CN France (Xavier Romatet) was maybe against it, required an exclusivity and « forced » her to leave.

Because once she left VP, she was everywhere. And the Carine thing was never credible because the first project Carine had post-VP was the Barney’s campaign. And she chose MAS to model Balenciaga.
 
I am curious if Tom Ford has banned Emmanuelle from all of his shows or not....
 
^ I’d like to dive more into the fact that he was killed, the scapegoat that she is, the fact that those in her defense will be allowed to testify anonymously and many other things that are such a parody of justice aimed at spectators who get something out of a ~justice has been served~ spectacle (but don’t dig deep enough to get anyone from the two parties involved, let’s focus on this idiot and roll with it)… but.. like I said, this case is tedious as hell lol…. and maybe it’s because what they were into grosses me out but they look pretty gross to me, even in their heyday (the Donald Trump/Clinton days).

Despite the fact that child molesters don't often do well in the prison system, I'm not aware of any evidence that he was killed (but lots of evidence that the prison personnel made many mistakes in carrying out suicide watch). Maybe I haven't sufficiently followed this unpleasant case, but an enabler/accomplice isn't the same as a scapegoat. It takes a lot of courage for people who've been victims of this type of crime to come forward at all. In this particular case, as I understand there are so many victims that I don't personally see a problem with victims being allowed to preserve their reputations (after they have managed presumably to rebuild their lives to some extent). Perhaps I am missing something.
 
There is another story about turmoil at LVMH's Tiffany in todays WSJ here.

TLDR: Tiffany is raising prices and moving away from focusing on the American market - instead they will cater to the East Asian market which is more lucrative. Prices will go up dramatically.

Some of the complaints about insulting messaging in ads, work culture, pricing are valid. Some are not - employees complaining about coming into work two days a week?:rolleyes:

Here's an excerpt from the more interesting passages:

Mr. Arnault is under pressure to show investors the big Tiffany bet will pay off. To make Tiffany more competitive with other luxury brands, LVMH is orchestrating an overhaul that includes higher prices, a push to sell more high-end jewelry—such as a necklace made of 180 carats of diamonds with an 80-carat diamond at its center, unveiled in Dubai in November—and the introduction of new fine-jewelry collections, Mr. Ledru said.
At a town hall meeting with staffers in January 2021, Mr. Ledru responded to a comment about Tiffany’s progress hiring female executives by saying, “Leave some jobs for us men, because we need to work, too,” according to attendees.
Mr. Ledru said in the interview that since he became CEO, two-thirds of jobs at the manager level and above have been filled by women. That is up from 60% before the acquisition, according to a Tiffany spokeswoman. “The facts speak for themselves,” Mr. Ledru said.
Tiffany recalled corporate staff to its New York headquarters two days a week on March 1, when many offices were still closed due to Covid-19, and monitored badge swipes, people familiar with the matter said. They added that if a group’s numbers are low, its manager is asked to fill out a form explaining why certain people didn’t come in.
Most recently CEO of LVMH-owned luggage brand Rimowa, Alexandre Arnault joined Tiffany in January 2021 as executive vice president of product and communications. In meetings, the younger Mr. Arnault, who is responsible for rebranding the jeweler, can influence the outcome of a debate by saying, “I spoke with BA and this is what we agreed on,” referring to his father. Through a spokeswoman, Alexandre Arnault declined to comment.
Still, Tiffany remains very much a U.S. company. As of 2019, it got 43% of its sales from the Americas, putting it at a disadvantage to Cartier and other jewelers that have a larger presence in the lucrative Chinese market, analysts said. Overall sales totaled $4.4 billion in 2019, the last full year for which it reported results. Financial figures for Tiffany no longer are broken out.

Despite its blue box pedigree, Tiffany has long relied on less-expensive silver jewelry for a large chunk of its sales. Jewelry categories with an average price of $530 or less made up 45% of sales in 2016. Analysts worried that Tiffany was allowing the proliferation of silver jewelry to weaken the brand.
Under LVMH, Tiffany is raising prices on silver and in some instances pairing it with other precious metals and stones. Prices on certain collections are up 7% to 13% from 2020, according to the company. Increases are bigger for some items, such as a “Return to Tiffany” silver charm bracelet—$425, versus $300 a year ago. Some of the increases reflect the rising cost of raw materials, the company said.

“They are OK with losing some consumers,” said Erwan Rambourg, the head of consumer and retail research at HSBC. “They want to compete with Cartier, not with Zales.”
A campaign unveiled in July with the tagline “Not Your Mother’s Tiffany” that features young, hip-looking models created a backlash on social media by customers who felt the slogan was insulting.

“I look up to my mom for her elegance and class,” said Victoria Stafford, a 22-year-old consultant in Logan, Utah, who has a heart-shaped Tiffany necklace that matches one her mother owns. “Why would I want to shop at a brand that is degrading her style?”

Mr. Ledru said the intended message was more along the lines of, “Not Just Your Mother’s Tiffany,” in the hopes of reaching a broader audience. “We knew there would be a strong dialogue,” he said. “We’re ready for that.”
 
^ Pretty sure I don't own anything Tiffany ... the quote from Utah makes me think the competition is more like James Avery ;)
 
The only items i own from Tiffany are made from Silver. I wouldn't be interested in purchasing any stones or other metals from them.

This new initiative is counter to Reed Krakoff's strategy for the brand - it does appear as if they are ignoring US input on the brand.
 
This full focus on the east asian (i get it ) wouldnt that leave them vulnerable for becoming irrelevant within the western market.It seems so risky to me .It seems the highfashion brands are too addicted to the easy money.
 
Dior Indefinitely Postpones Cactus Jack Collection – WWD

Well well...Like we didn't see that coming :rolleyes:

It's just hypocrite from LVMH because they would see no problem to release it if it was someone much more
controversial...
Its business we alla know but that move just prove that they were just seeing Travis Scott as a cash cow and treating him as a criminal ( even if I do not support him for what happened)
 
Judging by the way they presented the fall 2022 collection one month earlier, I think already move on from this fiasco. They'll push the pre-spring and pre-fall collections to make up the lost of this collaboration.

What I need LVMH to is postpone all the Fendi collections in 2022 until Kim can come up with something original and fresh without relying on his tiresome collaborations.
 
Interesting information about Marc Audibet:
The second was designing the “anonymous” look for Prada in the ’90s. Marc worked there from 1990 – 1996. Ralph stated: “Marc revolutionized Prada. That is the genius of Marc. Miuccia hired Marc when she wanted to shock fashion. After he got too important, she let him go.”

lookonline.com
 
Interesting information about Marc Audibet:
The second was designing the “anonymous” look for Prada in the ’90s. Marc worked there from 1990 – 1996. Ralph stated: “Marc revolutionized Prada. That is the genius of Marc. Miuccia hired Marc when she wanted to shock fashion. After he got too important, she let him go.”

lookonline.com
Sometimes I wonder how much of what I liked at Prada was Miuccia or the people on her team. I know that I like her personal style, but I see that depending on who is working for her, the collections can be stellar or flop
 

A French fashion brand is under fire for a photo shoot involving Indigenous women in southern Mexico

washingtonpost
By Kevin Sieff

MEXICO CITY — A production team from the popular French fashion label Sézane landed in Oaxaca earlier this month to photograph its new collection, drawing on the vibrant colors and patterns created by local artisans in southern Mexico.

But a video from one of those shoots, involving an Indigenous Mexican woman, has drawn widespread criticism, including from the Mexican government, which has launched an investigation into the incident.

The video shows members of Sézane’s production team photographing and filming an older Indigenous woman, Guillermina Gutiérrez, apparently wearing a mix of traditional clothing and Sézane apparel. A member of the Sézane team then asks Gutiérrez to dance as the cameras film. A pop song plays in the background.

The video was reposted across several Instagram accounts and websites, drawing widespread criticism for appearing to manipulate the Indigenous woman into serving as a part of the brand’s commercial campaign.

In an interview with Milenio, a Mexican news channel, Gutiérrez said that the Sézane team changed her clothes multiple times. She said she had to stop her work at her small craft shop.
When the shoot was over, she said, “they didn’t give me anything.”

In a statement this week, the Mexican government’s National Institute of Indigenous Peoples (INPI) said that it “strongly condemns the misuse of the image of Indigenous Zapotec women by the French clothing brand Sézane.”

“These actions threaten the dignity of peoples and communities and reinforce racist stereotypes about Indigenous culture and traditions,” the institute said.

The institute said it would seek a “legal remedy” for the Indigenous people who were photographed.
But executives at Sézane say the video is being misconstrued. They say it was not part of a commercial campaign but for a “backstage journal of the creative director.”

“No payment was exchanged as these photos were not intended for commercial use,” said Anne-Caroline Wacquiez, the head of communications at Sézane. “These are the photos of a woman met through a spontaneous encounter two days prior in the streets of Teotitlán del Valle, who accepted to come and share a lunch with the Sézane team and to participate in a quick informal backstage photo shoot.”
Sézane is a favorite among international fashion magazines and frequently featured under headlines such as “How to dress like a Parisian in 5 wardrobe essentials,” from a March 2021 issue of Vogue.

The controversy comes as Mexico continues to reckon with vast disparities between Indigenous and non-Indigenous populations. In recent years, there have been growing campaigns from activists warning against using Indigenous people and Indigenous culture as the commercial face of Mexico, when those communities seldom benefit from those campaigns.

Last year, Mexico’s government accused fashion brands including Zara and Anthropologie of appropriating designs and patterns from Indigenous groups without crediting or paying those communities. The Culture Ministry said Zara had used a design created by the Indigenous Mixtec community in a mint-colored dress with green embroidery.
The design “reflects ancestral symbols related to the environment, history and worldview of the community,” the ministry said.

In 2019, it also accused the designer Carolina Herrera of “cultural appropriation” for copying the floral embroidery used by Indigenous communities in the state of Hidalgo.

Mexico’s president weighed in on the debate in 2019, saying, “designs from the Indigenous cultures of Mexico are constantly being plagiarized.”
 
This scandal paints Sezane's Morgane Sèzalory in a very bad light.

The video is awful - there is a long line of professional photographers photographing the senior citizen in Sezane items as she is being made to dance. Yet Morgane Sèzalory says the photos weren't meant for "commercial purposes" despite posting two images of the senior citizen on her own instagram. Morgane Sèzalory says they were meant as a souvenir. I'm not surprised they were turned in by their own crew.

French Fashion Crew Shows How to Be Horrible Foreigners in Mexico


MEXICO CITY — The foreigners laugh as the elderly Indigenous woman raises her arms and sways back and forth to a 1960s pop melody, while a professional photographer begins snapping photos. Now, video of the photo shoot for a French fashion label has sparked widespread indignation and a sharp rebuke from the Mexican government.

The blow-up involving Sézane, a clothing line founded in Paris in 2013, is the latest chapter in a longstanding debate around cultural appropriation and racism in the fashion industry. Top brands have been publicly shamed for being predatory at worst and culturally insensitive at best.

The controversy arose after a team from Sézane staged a photo shoot with an elderly Indigenous woman in the Zapotec community of Teotitlán del Valle, in the state of Oaxaca, on January 7. The woman, Guillermina Gutiérrez, is wearing a green sweater from Sézane and sitting against a staged backdrop.

A woman from the French crew stands up and starts dancing with Gutiérrez to the 1968 Mary Hopkin song Those Were The Days. The woman then steps aside and encourages Gutiérrez to keep moving, prompting smiles, peels of laughter and words of encouragement.
But one onlooker was outraged: A Oaxacan resident who’d been hired by Sézane to help with its shoots, and recorded video of the scene.
The company arrived in Mexico in early January with a team of around 20 people, including models, photographers and videographers, said Kandy Mijangos, another Oaxacan hired to work with the crew. The photo shoot in Teotitlán, famous for its weaving, happened three days into a planned nine-day shoot in various regions of the state, according to a “mood board” the company put together outlining its vision for the publicity campaign. The board features models eating mangoes on the street, lounging in upscale hotels, and posing in front of marigolds.
Those plans evaporated after the person who filmed the elderly woman being cajoled into dancing shared the footage with Mijangos, who in turn shared it with Manuela Cortés, a textile artist and art curator. Cortés posted the video on her Instagram account with the comment, “Indigenous cultures treated like a display cabinet to pick and choose from. No respect. No morals.”

The video quickly racked up thousands of views and angry comments directed at the company, which advertises “luxury quality at a fair & accessible price” and promises “engagement in the community.” Most of its clothes sell in the $100 - $300 range. The person who shot the video declined to speak with VICE World News.
Mexico’s National Institute of Indigenous People, a governmental agency, said Sézane’s actions reinforce “racist stereotypes” and called on “private brands and companies to stop exploiting Indigenous and Afro-Mexican people and communities as cultural capital.” They are not objects to sell clothing, the institute said, but citizens “possessing a vast cultural heritage and traditional knowledge.”
The agency said it would be in touch with Gutiérrez and her family, as well as authorities in Teotitlán del Valle, to initiate legal proceedings. The agency didn’t respond to a request for comment from VICE World News about what specific legal actions it might take.

Mexico’s Government Ministry and its Secretary of Culture accused the French fashion company in a joint press release of “manipulating, using, and making a spectacle” of elderly people from Indigenous villages as “part of their publicity.”
Morgane Sèzalory, the company’s founder, who was present at the photo shoot, wrote a letter to Cortés saying she “never wanted to hurt anyone” and that her only intention was “to do things the most beautiful/right way, with all my heart and passion.” Cortés published the letter on her Instagram account.

Sèzalory said in the letter that she met “the beautiful woman” at a market, where they had “a true connection and shared joy,” prompting them to dance together. Sèzalory said she returned two days later to “make beautiful pictures I could then give her and add to my journal.” She said the local production team helped Sèzalory meet a third time with the woman “and we made beautiful pictures of her — and with her and her daughter.”
Sèzalory, who never mentions Gutiérrez by name, posted two photos with the elderly woman on her Instagram account, which has 296,000 followers. She's since taken them down.

In a statement to VICE World News, Sézane, which cut short its trip after the flap, said that “the photos in question were intended for the sole purpose of a backstage journal of the creative director.”
“We have heard and understand that our approach did affect the local Mexican community,” the company said. “And we are truly sorry that our actions did not reflect our best intentions and the profound respect we have for the local community.”

Cortés said she believes the company is lying.

“I don’t believe they took these photos because it was a meeting of the hearts and all this talk about love,” Cortés told VICE News. “It was clearly for an advertising campaign. There are professional cameras. There is someone helping direct the image of the woman dancing. There are lots of people in front of the woman trying to capture different moments.”
In an interview conducted by the Milenio TV network, Gutiérrez, who sells her own embroidery for a living, said she was told the photo shoot would only take a “little bit” but it lasted an hour. She wasn’t paid anything, she said.

Mijangos, the Oaxacan stylist hired by Sézane for the trip, said the French fashion company annoyed the Mexican staff from Day 1. Among other things, she said, they didn’t give contracts to their local hires, which is the standard practice for big production teams.
The French photographers and videographers didn’t ask Oaxaca residents for their permission to appear in images, added Mijangos, who left the shoot early out of her anger at the crew.
In one case, she said, they staged one of the foreign models in a line of women waiting for a bus. Another time, she said, they took video in a market without seeking permission from the people who appeared in the background.

“I told the person who was filming that it was inappropriate. That at a minimum they should ask for permission from the people at the back of the market who appeared in the shot,” Mijangos said. “After that, they sent me to do other things further from the set.”
vice.com
 
Mexican-French relationships are not at a high point after the Isabel Marant controversy (I know fashion brands don't serve as ambassadors to their country's...but that's how Mexican media and government officials have decided to cover the matter and it was a huge deal here), I don't know how this brand was so blatantly unaware of that fact!

I think brands both local and international should refrain from using indigenous people as set dressing, if only because the current administration strongly condemns such displays of cultural appropriation.
 
^ as seen in this thread in some pages back, it's not like people, let alone brands, care about legal consequences (remember the ~if the country doesn't protect their own people, WHY SHOULD WE?!!~), they should probably abstain for the simple fact that a social media trial must suck and no one really recovers (unless you hire a very good PR company to do the cleansing). Then again, what is this brand lol.. you can totally afford this type of thing when no one even knows you exist.

I admit I took the 'senior' and 'older woman' parts with a pinch of salt thinking they were talking about some 40 year-old who was.. doing it for the gram!. Then I saw the video and... it is awful... she's like 90 or 100, just nodding like most people of that age, they totally took advantage. And that 'translator' is so punchable.. just so condescendingly managing the rare human in front of the lens, cause you know, she's been to wild places, she knows how to communicate with other species and even make them do tricks.

I will say though, the 'French crew shows how to be horrible foreigners in Mexico' headline is a big stretch.. someone's clearly never been to Rosarito with the worst of the worst of Southern California g*ngb*nging in every public space...
 

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