Suzy Menkes
The Emilio Pucci invitation, with its heritage photograph of a colorful figure on the mountain slopes, explosive pattern on the jacket and hefty skis from the 1960s, captured the outdoor freshness of the show Thursday.
Thick knits, worked in a patchwork of quiet shades or felted wool coats, their fuzzy surfaces toning down the vivid geometric patterns, made for a more varied collection. There were still a few too many little dresses in bright colors under chubby fur coats, worn by models whose laced boots were strictly for après ski.
Explaining that Emilio Pucci himself had wanted his jet-set prints to capture the speed and velocity of his era, the designer Matthew Williamson said backstage that he had created on the computer five new prints, from an alpine landscape with abstract fir trees to diamond patterns, in order to "break down the sometimes chaotic prints."
There is still a sense that Williamson is skating across the surface of Pucci, yet the show was lively and well-planned. The Alpine theme brought icicles of crystal on clutch bags or as jewelry, giving a sophisticated vibe to the sporty theme. Intriguingly, the most intense patterns in the show were on a few ultra-long dresses, while the overall silhouette was short and snappy. Williamson, as with most designers, is tinkering with change. /iht.com