I really don't want to be discouraging about Gareth Pugh - he obviously puts a lot of effort into each look and painstakingly constructed each piece. i really applaud him for that, he is sincere.
I wish he would step back a bit though, and ponder his efforts. He is approaching fashion as if he is constructing an impressive model spaceship, first, a sketch of a series of fins here, a group of plastic ruff there, wings cantilevered from the shoulders, etc.
The beauty of designer fashion is that a master in cut and tailoring *can* construct fantastical shapes and concoctions, but he or she would do it while constrained by materials and methods that are ultimately wearable, and I don't mean how it looks, nothing is too outrageous in fashion, but that i.e., you can function in them, sit, stand and move. You honestly don't want to sit with a bunch of plastic or cardboard fins on your *rse.
I saw some such interesting pieces here, eg. the coats, and he can get very far with the two-tones effects. What's utterly unnecessary is to show how we can all look with these giant ruffs, fins, gills, rectangle plastic giant paillettes, i.e. extremely *uncomfortable*.
His past textures have been more subtle as well, and the mix is always interesting, eg. patent leather and wool, the shiny and stiff woven with soft and wooly. In the end, for all the fantastical shapes and extravagant textures, this looks curiously one-dimensional.