Gareth Pugh S/S 09 Paris

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I think Gareth's first collection in Paris is very powerful!
the color, black and white are in sharp contrast...very strong!
 
Really quite phenomenal work... definitely well done. It's very interesting, and keeps you hooked. I want to see more and more!! I really adore the mini dresses, jackets and the pants. Most of these pieces could be easily translated into every day wear! For sure. I'm getting so many ideas... I want I want I want!!! :)
 
Pg-2-_53848a.jpg

(the independent)

This man is on fire!
 
I see more TRON than hamlet and Elizabeth..
I do wonder why Ghesquière got crucified for having done the futuristic armour but Gareth's rendition is alright.
He has flagrantly fused many other motifs from Givenchy, Mugler, Montana,Mcqueen and Westwood's armory.
Fashion sure has a short memory...
 
This collection its much more commercial than the ones hes done in the past ... I cant believe he actually was on a reality fashion show and now hes doing all this stuff ... I esp applaud the more architectural, armour like pieces .... tho the collar a-la Elizabeth the I its good as well ... Roisin has worn his stuff ... Kylie has as well ... I wonder whos next ... JLo at the Oscars?
 
He has such great talent. Look at that construction! Amazing really.

When he finally moves on from his shock antics, he can create such chic & beautiful clothes. :crush:
 
Yes, and my hope is that he'll build on this Paris debut, and learn to properly explore new sides to his aesthetic.

There's nothing wrong with a designer having recurrent themes - like Valentino's red dresses - and this is a positive start for Monsieur Pugh on a new scene. Let's see where he takes it.
 
Gareth has done good.

I think for the first time since he started getting hyped he's finally presented a collection that firmly demands praise. He executed his vision flawlessly. He hammered his signature graphic and grotesque play on proportions, he indulged his goth-futurist aesthetic, and he showed a level of craft that rivals Mcqueen. People mention the wearability factor but I don't think it's a problem. Hidden in the presentation are pieces that are in fact wearable but they are only a few.

Of course the whole gothic-futurist thing can be a bit cliche but this level of sincerity makes me only love it. Outstanding Paris debut
 
Mutterlein said:
and he showed a level of craft that rivals Mcqueen.
Click to expand...

Mutterlein, what pieces from this collection would you say rivalled Mcqueen's last collection in craftmanship?:huh:
Even from a distance the tailoring looks pretty bad, and worse if you look at the close-up images. I dont think in terms of craftmanship he's improved at all from what he was doing in London. This just seems kind of watered down with shoddy 'marketable' pieces in fabric that looks cheap.:innocent:

IMO, he's seriously overhyped, and you see more impressive ideas at some degree shows (at Antwerp for example), only they're constructed better.

Still, good luck to him, he seems to be getting away with it.
 
Why is everyone saying this isn't wearable?
There are plent of wearable pieces here....
Even if, that shouldn't matter, there are commercial shows and artistic shows and they both need to be there.
 
WOW. They look even more jawdropping in movement. LOVE LOVE LOVE IT.

I haven't notice how cool the shoes are.
 
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i like the black and white...i have to say...
though i think it is extremely lacking in construction overall....

ie- tisci @ givenchy, mcqueen, gesquiere @ balenciaga have all done versions of this....
but the execution was impeccable in all those cases..
and having seen it executed to that level just underscores the areas where this collection falls short...

though i do like the general feel and concept...
but without the proper execution...
i agree with another poster who said this could be an over-the-top student show from antwerp...imho...

though, for editorial purposes it will certainly work...because you can get away with more in a pic...
i'm sure pop, V and numero will all be shooting some of this....

:innocent:

*with regards to wearability..
i'd really like a pair of two tone leggings...and there is an asymmetrical jacket i would love to own....so...i do think that there are elements of practicality and wearability to be found if one looks closely and is brave enough to wear them...
:p
 
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Jamess said:
Mutterlein, what pieces from this collection would you say rivalled Mcqueen's last collection in craftmanship?:huh:
Even from a distance the tailoring looks pretty bad, and worse if you look at the close-up images. I dont think in terms of craftmanship he's improved at all from what he was doing in London. This just seems kind of watered down with shoddy 'marketable' pieces in fabric that looks cheap.:innocent:
Click to expand...

I didn't say Mcqueen's last collection, I meant in general. These clothes are very rigorous in their construction, no one can really deny that. I think it's a huge step up from previous seasons. I'm sure he's had help from hired technicians with new found money.

Many of the pieces require lots and lots of sewing know how that only a few designers like Mcqueen ever utilize. Is it as good? Well it really wouldn't be, not yet. And the level of execution is not much worse than Mcqueen's first debut in Paris.

The song ins the finale is "Goodbye Horses" by Q Lazzarus. It's notoriously Buffalo Bill's theme song from Silence of the Lamb. Also, Christopher Kane used it in his show for fall.
 
Hmm...there's something quite clean and bare bones about what he does. It doesn't feel particularly clever, it doesn't seem as if there's anything up his sleeve. There's earnest hard work throughout his collections and it doesn't feel as if he's believing his own hype. He still approaches, designs, creates as someone underground, underappreciated, an undergrad. It's hard and uncomplicated but it feels genuine to how he's presented himself and I think, in the long run, that's what's important. These young british designers have so much pressure on them as far as their predecessors go, the fashion system in the uk, the economy, the pull of paris and the fact that there isn't anything as young and exciting happening anywhere else (within the four city system). They're more powerful than they know and it seems to me as if Pugh is carefully weighing his options, openly engaging and searching and refining, trying to build something permanent, rejecting the overnightsuccess b.s. and simply keeping his nose to the grindstone.
 
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