Gucci F/W 2020.21 Milan

^^^ LOL with this Alessandro person, I’m certain you’re on point. Along with then Teen Vogue’s “biological gender is fiction” (I’m paraphrasing but just search on YouTube their propaganda piece on gender), he’s the type to sing the high praises of such bullsh*t— while presenting the most lazy thriftstore knockoffs. And it would be tolerable if he had the abstract dedication and conceptual architecture of someone at least like Rick Owens at his best. But Alessandro has revealed himself to be even less subversive and even more shallow than Maria Grazia. His predictable and banal fashion sensibility is just so basic I find anything he does— even his so-called concepts, tepid and wimpy and not worth the contempt. I’ll stick with “it’s cute”. (But really, I’m not even going to get personal with how a middle-age man who seems fixated on consistently showcasing such infantile-level of fashion on such pubescent-looking models…)
 
I just wish Gucci can hire someone that makes Sexy & sleek clothes again....i'm so over this weird ugly aesthetic ...I really miss going to Gucci shows & watching stunning models strut down the runway ..i miss that ...Lord knows i miss Frida Giannini days at this great house ...
We don’t have to go there....
I mean do you all really remember the Frida days?

I want from Michele to go back to his earlier days when his models just looked like real cool people instead of characters from movies or fantasies.

Seeing Belle-Epoque silhouettes at Gucci is really not my cup of tea at all when you think about the Heritage of the house and what it meant!

But we need to stop with the « We miss Frida » or « We miss Christopher Bailey » narrative. I remember very well their last collections and they were terrible!

I miss a sense of timelessness from Gucci. But I don’t miss Frida at Gucci at all! I can only think about her infamous pants! She did great bags and shoes and I really liked her FW14 collection but she can’t touch Michele...In tailoring alone, he is miles away from her!
 
The styling wasn't as awful as usual and I can at least envision the big dresses as editorial fodder but it's all very emperor's new clothes in how Gucci is suppoused to represent "nowness" in fashion and yet everything feels so stale and redundant.

I really detest the way he has eroded Gucci's brand identity...it's all fun and laughs till whatever this is goes out of style.
 
miss a sense of timelessness from Gucci. But I don’t miss Frida at Gucci at all! I can only think about her infamous pants! She did great bags and shoes and I really liked her FW14 collection but she can’t touch Michele...In tailoring alone, he is miles away from her!
I still think Michele is a genius, je just seems stuck now. Maybe he’s worried to change something although he feels he should evolve , so he evolves further down the rabbbit hole. But there’s no denying his genius , and I hope he finds a way out of this dilemma. And tbh Frida to me always seemed a pale copy of Tom Ford , Milanese sexiness without the ooomph that he did so well
 
It's not same old style but still over designed, boring ugly clothes backed by whatever origin story marketing can come up with. What works at Gucci is that he actually capable of doing great amazing clothes and we see that. It's just that sometimes it feels lazy and insincere.
 
We don’t have to go there....
I mean do you all really remember the Frida days?

I unashamedly remain a fan of Frida's days for Gucci and can remember every single collection, Lola. I thought her themed collections were right for the times they existed in and there were always recognizable, standout pieces every season.

As for this collection, more of the same but this time I can't even see great separates. The only thing I like are the gowns, and I like them for what they are: straight up costumes.
 
We don’t have to go there....
I mean do you all really remember the Frida days?



But we need to stop with the « We miss Frida » or « We miss Christopher Bailey » narrative. I remember very well their last collections and they were terrible!

I will take your word for it but i loved Frida , maybe i was lost in the sauce of the time when she was at Gucci those where my favorite/most memorable years working in fashion lol...I was literally at every fitting & show of hers from 2009-2014 ...I guess when spend time up close & personal with certain people you grow to have a affinity & a level of respect/appreciation for them, from my perspective anyway ...
As far Alessandro Michele goes maybe he is a superior designer to Frida ...But this horrible perverse fetish thingy he got going on i find it frankly disgusting ...Anyway i digress ...
 
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Reading this thread seriously made me feel like I've stumbled into the Breitbart comment section by accident for a while there. When did this forum decide to.go ultra-conservative? Did I miss a memo somewhere? Of all the things in the fashion industry to be disgusted by, skinny boys in harnesses and/or heels is where we draw the line?

Like, maybe I've just fallen out of touch with the general view of the forum, but I joined the forum many moons ago because it offered precious discussion and valuable insight into fashion and the fashion industry, intelligent conversation between different people and points of view. If the only thing we can offer now is the empty, bitter nostalgia, personal insults and armchair psychoanalysis towards designers we dislike, and alt-right propaganda tripe that we've been displaying this year, we might as well just close shop while we still can.

My apologies for the rant, I've just been thinking about this for a while and thought it needed to be said.

Oh, and about the collection: same thing as with every season. It's my least favorite collection from him in a while, but there are still great, timeless pieces buried in there, bogged down by unflattering styling and a weird "concept" that dilutes the message of the collection.
 
Ew some of these comments about the cast are really problematic and downright rude.

The collection is better than his last, but tbe presentation is way too distracting.
 
Reading this thread seriously made me feel like I've stumbled into the Breitbart comment section by accident for a while there. When did this forum decide to.go ultra-conservative? Did I miss a memo somewhere? Of all the things in the fashion industry to be disgusted by, skinny boys in harnesses and/or heels is where we draw the line?

Like, maybe I've just fallen out of touch with the general view of the forum, but I joined the forum many moons ago because it offered precious discussion and valuable insight into fashion and the fashion industry, intelligent conversation between different people and points of view. If the only thing we can offer now is the empty, bitter nostalgia, personal insults and armchair psychoanalysis towards designers we dislike, and alt-right propaganda tripe that we've been displaying this year, we might as well just close shop while we still can.
Buck up, babe.

You said you joined TFS for conversation from different people with different points of view.

Well, this is it.
 
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Buck up, babe.

You said you joined TFS for conversation from different people with different points of view.

Well, this is it.

It's very much not it. A conversation (in the the context of fashion discussion), means that we can articulate our points of view in the most empathic and respectful way possible, towards ourselves and the subject of our critique, as much as possible. It's not apocalyptic one-liners that contribute nothing to a discussion thread, it's not the amount of vitriol leveled at so many designers we consider to be lacking (it feels like the Maria Grazia thread get rougher and more violent each season...), it's not the hate masked as critique that I've seen on this thread... and it's certainly not what has been insinuated about American kids being taught BDSM or whatever that was, which is just neo-nationalistic propaganda that has absolutely no place anywhere, much less a discussion on fashion.

I have no particular sensitivity towards the people affected by what I percieve to be derogatory comments (besides basic empathy), and if this were some dark corner of Instagram or wherever else, I'd have nothing to say because I wouldn't have expected anything else. However, this is a forum that prides itself of being different, of being better, of being in-depth. We're capable of much better - and we were better not too long ago.

Everyone is free to post whatever they wish, of course, and I have no intention of controlling what people say on this forum or elsewhere. And this is the last time I'll touch this subject again, no worries. What I'm ultimately trying to say is that the forum's shifting in a way that I, personally, find to be a) opposite to what's been the core of our discussion, and b) extremely concerning, and it's not a route I want to follow, so I'm publicly voicing the concerns I have. That's all.
 
^^^ Empathy goes both ways. Whenever an individual may express a more reserved opinion against what is considered to be the morally-superior, liberal, progressive beliefs, the immediate response seems to dismiss such an opinion as Breitbart. Why is that? I don’t mind nor care if someone dismisses me with that reference as an insult— but again: Empathy goes both ways. I value both progressive and conservative values that’s shaped by my life experience working/living alongside people of varying political/social/spiritual beliefs. This isn’t 1966 Communist China but some are absolutely behaving like The Red Guards.

Anyway, I’d also like to talk about fashion. Except there never is anything fresh or interesting with this Gucci.

Sadly these days, the most basic identify-politics/token representation/social justice distilled into a slogan have all but not just infiltrated the industry as a marketing means to optimize profile and maximize profits by corporations like Dior/Gucci, all the while the actual concept of high fashion has been relegated to its most basic form and shoved to the back of the bus. If all these political/social issues were executed supremely well alongside the context of creative and inspiring high fashion, then I’d be gleefully admiring it even if I may not be supporting the topic. But it’s not. Gucci/Alessandro knows that once the shallow social and political aspect of his shows are removed, there’s nothing to talk about with his wholesale rip-off of 1970s thriftstore finds, and that in turn has me resenting, and very cynical of their offerings, and that includes their message.
 
I will take your word for it but i loved Frida , maybe i was lost in the sauce of the time when she was at Gucci those where my favorite/most memorable years working in fashion lol...I was literally at every fitting & show of hers from 2009-2014 ...I guess when spend time up close & personal with certain people you grow to have a affinity & a level of respect/appreciation for them, from my perspective anyway ...
As far Alessandro Michele goes maybe he is a superior designer to Frida ...But this horrible perverse fetish thingy he got going on i find it frankly disgusting ...Anyway i digress ...

I loved Frida as well. She designed clothes for grown women. That sophistication has completely evaporated from Gucci. I might be in the minority, but I thought Frida produced some of her best collections towards the end.

Alessandro Michele is not a better designer, but he is a different kind of designer. He has proven his ability to be creative and sophisticated, but it seems as if he's afraid to break out of this formula. In reality I really can't fault him for that. One wrong move and Kering will throw him to the wolves. It's a dangerous game working for a big house. They don't run off of creativity anymore. Why else would we get the same thing season after season? It sells regardless of its context. Every once in a while he'll squeeze something new into the mix, it never grows into anything but it's fun to see. Now if he could somehow flip the whole thing on it's head then maybe he can change the game again. Maybe next season?
 
This collection somehow reminds me of Harmony Korine's films, esp. Gummo, which is arguably "disturbing" for the sake of being "disturbing." I'm never sure what his films are meant to say (another e.g., Spring Breakers) but they typically objectify the actors.

I think that is similar to what's happening here; the clothes are quirky, odd, or kinky just for the sake of it, and the cast are strangely objectified. *shrug*
 
I hate how liberation theology (and true social justice) has been co-opted by Western liberals and capitalists, the bourgeoisie, celebrities, and their cronies and sycophants.

I hate Wes Anderson films.

I hate this collection.
 
I still think Michele is a genius, je just seems stuck now. Maybe he’s worried to change something although he feels he should evolve , so he evolves further down the rabbbit hole. But there’s no denying his genius , and I hope he finds a way out of this dilemma. And tbh Frida to me always seemed a pale copy of Tom Ford , Milanese sexiness without the ooomph that he did so well

Agree with you!
 
Why is that?
Because it is. I did it last time because why type the following 3 paragraphs when I can just use one word that comprehends it all?. We're not talking about the tame and harmless conservative we got to see only 5 years ago, it's usually a hatred-filled, profoundly resentful rant on any demonstration (no matter how small or silly) that defies privileges and that echoes (often verbatim) the manifestos that have led to our current state of affairs.

Good news is that it's really a handful of members I'd say, it's just the forum is so empty it seems like a virulent wave but nah, same peeps, different threads lol. What can I say, aging does a number on all of us (no pun intended).. but on some more than others, 33-going-on-83 is a thing when you're a white man in the US, even if you're gay, with enough freedom to use Grindr, to build loving relationships, to not just protect yourself under the shelter fashion was but to proudly consume it, womenswear if you want, to flaunt it, to talk about it confidently with not even a memory of the stigma surrounding it only 30 years ago. It would be convenient to think it happened without a fight, or the 'pearl-clutching PC patrol on duty 24/7' that is so resented here and yet was obnoxious enough to hammer on what is okay and what is not okay so it could enter the thick skull of some, normalize it, and with that, encourage respect or tolerance so these others could then feel safe enough to be themselves, demand equality and not hide anymore. For some these days, let's swim nicely in all these privileges, like you were born into them and get to exercise them cause you're cute like that.. let's act like nobody ever fought for them, for you, and annoyed the hell out of the status quo, and let's constantly put down anyone younger than you are, with a different cause and all of their concerns and the way they explore sexuality or race, because 'back in my days' it wasn't like that.

So yeah, I'd like to clarify that this forum is not going alt-right just because that thin ice broke for one. It would be great if, just like this forum created rules to eliminate the amount of fights during the Bush days, some rules or quick response to reported posts with homophobic/racist undertones could be implemented. tFS has always been about diversity, not as in diverse forms of hateful points of view but the diversity that opposes hate because we were all VERY different and from different corners of the world, beliefs, races and understandings of gender and sexuality, maybe some forgot about that, but yup, THIS is the forum you signed up to, and it's not an anarchic one, there are rules and new rules could be added so those who have outgrown it can fly away. When the ever-so polite 'thanks for posting'/'no politics allowed' tFS is starting to feel too damn progressive and liberal, go 4chan (there's gotta be a fashion section there, just not sure they welcome all dudes).

Okay. I don't know what this collection is.. looks like Undercover when he went commercial.
 
I miss the Tom Ford era of Gucci. I miss of aspiring to that high level of jet-setter chic. Now, high level is streetwear/noveau rich which basically equates to the laziness of appearance.
Really? Don’t get me wrong, I love Tom Ford (everybody knows I guess), I loved his work for Gucci and I don’t mind revisiting his old shows sometimes but I’m glad Gucci has moved on.
I’m not a fan of this show but I loved Michele’s earlier work. I love the idea of seeing a woman on a runway, not a character. If there’s something that I might miss from the Tom Ford, it’s the sense of reality and projection of what he did.
 
I loved Frida as well. She designed clothes for grown women

I'm kind of stuck in the middle in this conversation.

I'm with those here who DO NOT miss la Giannini AT ALL. Mind you, she certainly is a very skilled and professional designer, she also comes across as a very determined individual but, c'mon, let's face reality, during her tenure, however commercially successful for a while, the aesthetic boundaries have not been pushed half an inch forward. I think Gucci deserved better than that.

That is why I liked Michele's total overturn of the Gucci codes at the beginning (despite his clothes not really being my cup of tea); I think it was a ballsy thing to do for a brand that size and admire people who take risks. His fashion felt authentic and soulful compared to the text-book sexy-Gucci that preceded him.
Today, eehmmm, I almost feel I can't be bothered to watch his shows anymore, I kind of know what's gonna be in there. So, what's the point?

Plus, many here are touching on a point that is central to any serious conversation on fashion today and one that Michele has largely contributed to focus on: the infantilization of taste in contemporary culture. But this is the subject of a wholly different thread and I would argue that Michele can hardly be held the sole responsible for that.
 

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