Gucci: A designer bouquet
Suzy Menkes
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2005
From the first moment that the new Gucci Girl strode out, in a jeans-tight black pants suit, a shocking pink sweater and flat alligator boots, her mouth painted with cherry red lipstick, you knew that Frida Giannini was opening a new era as Gucci's designer.
Out of the night spots and into the open air, Gucci's summer 2006 show was burgeoning with blooms on frill-sleeved blouses or slender evening gowns. This woman might still be a rock chic at heart, with her jingle-jangle coin bracelet and her flirty little dresses. But hey! She has a life before the happy hour, striding out in tailored Bermuda shorts, this time on high, but solid, platform shoes. They hit a runway deck varnished like a ship captain's cabin. She carried a tiny flowered purse with Jean Harlow-style evening gowns, but bags were mostly capacious enough to contain gym kit, running shoes and company files.
Giannini, 32, is part of the Ford family - a designer who joined Gucci in 2002 as handbag director under Tom Ford. Since he left, natural selection from the team has brought the confident young designer forward. The floral bags she took from the archives and made a winner last summer now look like part of her vision, which she said before the show encompassed the mood and the jet set personalities of Gucci's 1960's years.
The show made bold florals central to a new, pert, but less steamy Gucci, with a flirty daisy patterned dress, mixes of floral print, mostly laced with black, and even the evening gowns patterned as well as plain. Playing with green - the hit color of the season - as well as red, Giannini achieved her aim of producing a "joyous and optimistic" collection. It was a powerful and accomplished debut that bodes well for Gucci.
But then, with strong sales figures, that the CEO, Robert Polet, modestly ascribed to "the whole team," the dire predictions of a post-Ford failure for Gucci have never materialized. Does François-Henri Pinault, chief executive of Gucci's parent company PPR feel vindicated?
"This is not a recompense," he said at the show. "It is a logical outcome."