Jil Sander F/W 06.07 Milan | Page 4 | the Fashion Spot

Jil Sander F/W 06.07 Milan

There was an excitement and briskness with the menswear (best of the season, I think) that was absent here. It seemed a little dour and maybe too respectful. That being said, there are great pieces, great coats, nothing intimidating--little odds and ends that will no doubt be worked out with the orders. You can take out the sex, that's commendable. But there seems to be a lack of optimism here. I'm willing to chalk it up to just plain nerves.
 
this is perhaps one of my favourite womens shows this season...
i think we have to give raf some time here.. i dunno who said it but i also see raf becoming as important to womenswear as menswear... only time can tell..but i have a slight feeling he will reach new heights.. bravo raf!
 
I don't know about others but the Jil Sander pieces I have are sexy, just very subtly so. Although she doesn't deck her clothes like D&G, but there's discrete fun, whimsy, or at the very least, a distinct coolness. I love RS, but this collection is completely devoid of joy, save for those black patent boots on white dresses, which are the only looks worthy of JS womenswear IMO. Even the previous collection with only her team designing was better.:( I don't want to look like a man-woman!
 
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Just saw the entire collection on style.com ... I think its all great. Some pieces were a bit repetitive, but they were all amazing pieces in their own right. I love how like Narcisco Rodriguez, Raf Simmons was able really make these clothes sensual without being so obvious.
 
Zazie said:
I don't want to look like a man-woman!

:lol:

i like the mannish cuts... it all looks ok really, expected more from raf though... the eveningwear does look dour, very patrician-like but in a boring way
 
Zazie said:
I don't know about others but the Jil Sander pieces I have are sexy, just very subtly so. Although she doesn't deck her clothes like D&G, but there's discrete fun, whimsy, or at the very least, a distinct coolness. I love RS, but this collection is completely devoid of joy, save for those black patent boots on white dresses, which are the only looks worthy of JS womenswear IMO. Even the previous collection with only her team designing was better.:( I don't want to look like a man-woman!

There is one phrase in this review that I agree with completely, and that is when you mentioned how this collection is 'completely devoid of joy.' Sobriety is one thing, but this collection feels so painfully stark, I feel like there should be a touch of sensuality or even a wink of attitude, playfulness...but to me these clothes have an atmosphere that is almost catatonic, only exacerbated by the setting/lighting that it seems taken out of The Piano Teacher or something...
 
My 2 cent: I think he should've understood why Jil Sander didn't sold well in the past and deal with it. Their customers like minimalism, but look for sth equal to the price they pay.
 
I think Raf veered away from Jil Sander's new found femininity and went back to find that customer from the 90's. These customer's were a steady cash flow for the brand every season because they knew they could always rely on Ms. Sander to design beautifuly tailored business suits for work.

I think the label needs to gain a little more profit financialy, before we will see anything revolutionary in womenswear , from Raf. For now atleast, the critics and media have gained back hope for Jil Sander's future. It will be interesting to see how he manages to get along with Patrizio Bertelli or if this collection will do well in the stores. I still have a dream that maybe one day, Jil Sander will purchase her own label back, and return to fashion. I don't think we've seen the last of Ms. Sander.

l
 
gah, i love it, i was so looking forward to this collection and it was just what i was expecting. i'm not even a big fan on minimalism but this is too beautifully done to detest it. ^_^

my favorite looks.:heart:
00430f.jpg

00510f.jpg
 
I looked at all the pics on style.com, and I found this collection my biggest surprise and my favorite in Milan so far. I love the clean look (yet so well constructed). I'd love to get some pants/jackets from the collection. The coats look better on women than men, IMHO. And unfortunately only the people who have the model figure can really pull them off.
 
yes, definitely my favourite so far, new york and milan combined...
 
sometimes you read the comments of other ppl and then you see the pictures of the collections they are commenting on and you begin to wonder if they are commenting on the same collection that you are viewing.
this is probably the biggest problem in todays fashion: too many PPL talk a good game and do too little, they believe that every thing can be explained away or at least made interesting by playing with words........Where am i going? i will save you the surprise
I love Raf , but this collection is flat, the most (maybe the only) interesting thing in this collection are the shoes.
Raf faces a great challenge, and he also has to be learning on the fly, He is a menswear designer who is asked to take the reins at a womenswear design company with a clearly defined aesthetic, The founding designer of which, in my estimation is probably the closest thing we have to Coco Chanel in modern times (i mean from a "practicality in design" standpoint)
from my experience as a designer, doing menswear is completely different from doing womenswear. It is also extremely difficult to put together a strong collection while learning a new area of your profession.
what jil sander understood was how to suggest the feminity whithin the parameters of minimalism.
We wil have to be patient with Raf, it is going to take time for him to get it right.
it may get worse before it gets better and another possibility may be to destroy the legacy of jil sander (the woman) and create a new identity for the brand that he is more comfortable with.
the biggest challenge for him though may be to deal with the Egommaniacs that run the prada group will need to give him time devoid of pressure to find his stride
 
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Fade-to-black, zamb and arlekinde, I share your disappointment with this collection, even though I'm a staunch supporter of RS.:(

Sobriety is making a come-back and it's a welcomed change, but this is making a fetish of it, carrying it to an extreme which I didn't even see in JS's previous collections! There is a hungry market for it, since the demise of Helmut Lang and the turmoil over JS, but RS shouldn't translate minimalism too literally, and although a lot of designers have appropriated menswear ideas for women, it's just not a direct translation, eg. Katherine Hepburn's elegance.

Btw, the Egomaniacs at Prada have sold JS off, now that RS is getting good reviews, ha.
 
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it looks good in person...
while the cut and shape of the jackets and shirts seem the strongest...
i am a bit unsure of some of the nap of the fabrics chosen (wools and cashmeres especially)which seem like they will not wear nicely and will wear out quickly...:ermm:...
and the pants look like they used the same fit and cut as when jil was there- so that could be a really good thing actually...
thought i have yet to try any on- so the FIT remains to be tested -by me anyway...
i do LOVE the details on the shirts...which were always my fave bit about jil's collections...
 

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