Jil Sander F/W 09.10 Milan | Page 4 | the Fashion Spot

Jil Sander F/W 09.10 Milan

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[catwalking]
 
I loved the shapes that were used. They looked okay as menswear, but I love the coat Olga is wearing.


I have to say one thing though; how many times is he going to remake this coat?! I've seen it so many times now.
 
These shapes are incredible I love the neutrals and the one pop of purple but I'm really not feeling the neon. The architecture is simply breathtaking though :heart:

And I love those shoes!
 
So plastic. The collection feels so smooth and sleek with that flux-like movement embracing the body. Those shoes look fun.
 
Defying gravity: Jil sander by Cathy Horyn

Fashion can seem so life-denying when designers begin piling on the merch and hunkering down for a cold winter. And you do feel the economic crisis here: the empty stores, the report yesterday that IT Holding, which owns Gianfranco Ferré and Malo, among other labels, has filed for bankruptcy protection.
But then tonight Raf Simons tried to defy gravity with a dazzling Jil Sander show. It started so quietly, with an homage to the clear and succinct influence of Ms. Sander. There were sharp coats in white and gray double-faced cashmere, over shifts and trousers worn with turtlenecks and flats. The second half of the show began with a flash of colored strobe lights, and a white sleeveless dress with a panel in the back that was cut on a curve and an interior of black satin. It had the same visual effect of a deep hole — the bottomlessness of it. And yet, of course, it was a just a dress.
This collection did masterful things with curvilinear shapes (inspired by the ceramics of the French artist Pol Chambost, whose name I had to Google). The curls of a dress opening at the side or half cupping the face suggested lips. I need not elaborate. Imagine, though, bringing that kind of sensuality and female imagery to fashion, and doing it in a way—with stretch wools, knits and spongy jerseys—that actually expands the language of minimalism. I like that Simons divided the show in two parts; at first I wasn’t sure about that. But the collection certainly represented a leap of faith. I hear that Jil Sander’s new owners are closing the Hamburg ateliers. At the end of the show, Simons brought out the chief of the atelier, Christel Von Kiedrowski, who has worked for Jil Sander for more than 20 years.

^^those are the thought of Ms Horyn I personally Adore it too :wub:
 
Wow, the shapes! Amazing!
And I love the bright colors on some collars, it looks so perfect.
 
Hit and miss for me. I LOVE those pieces with the curves. But those chunky ones are really ugly and not flattering.
 
I like it.
I feel I should love it.

But . . there's something I don't love.
I'm not feeling it that much at all really . . ?
I wonder why?
 
The orange dress on Vlada was Amazing!
So it was the grey one with the yellow coat in Irina
 
But . . there's something I don't love.
I'm not feeling it that much at all really . . ?
I wonder why?
ugh, I hear you. I like nearly all the pieces but none of it is 'moving' me at all, it seems like such a cold, extremely mechanical collection.. I deeply appreciate Raf's conception of a staple that never expires and that you incorporate into a lifetime instead of a season, but.. I don't know, the first part feels so old, sometimes a year old and in other looks, it's 1997 all over again. but that's not my major complaint anyway, perhaps what I'm trying to say is that the collection as a whole seems to project so much concern, probably the economical concern Cathy mentions?, and that's why I can't genuinely embrace it.
 
I do actually love this collection, but I feel the same way of Crying Diamonds. I don't think that there's something missing, I just thought that... I don't know, maybe some fabrics or shapes don't do anything to me at all. Perhaps I'm too tired of 'architecture' in clothes.
 
I really, really like this collection, but just like Crying Diamonds, there's something that's keeping me from loving it. There are some incredibly gorgeous pieces and ideas here, particularly the two white coats that come about half way through the lineup, one with the curving collar lined in red and the other with the curving seams and built up collar lined in orange. Those are both stunning.

But it does seem like there was some sort of hesitation to really go for it in terms of the shocks of bright color, the curls that wrap around part of the body. I wish he had taken that just a bit further, added more bold color, done more with those curves. I think that's really what makes this collection different than spring. With that collection he really went for it, pushed it to it's furthest limit. I'm not sure he did that here.
 

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