Jil Sander F/W 09.10 Milan

[kiddokiddo]

selected detail shots

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[kiddokiddo]

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[gomtik]

WOW!! Just stunning!! The curvilinear seams, the spectacular shapes that spiral around the body, these are couture-esque techniques that cannot be duplicated by high street, especially now that couture is reduced to an over-decorated bodice with a giant skirt. It's back to the techniques of Balenciaga (the original, not NG) when he proposed fantastical silhouette and shapes that express sublime feminity in lieu of the beads, sequins and collages of the "petits mains". This is a different type of luxury for our times, not loud, not brash, not obvious, yet you know it's in a different league.

This is so daring, yet subtle.

Completely agree!

 

[samanthay]

Ahh those detail shots are amazing. This collection was impressive, imo. I love it. The structure is amazing and I love the pops of colour, especially the orange with the white.

 

[kiddokiddo]

style

 

[kiddokiddo]

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[KarlBear]

^Soo beautiful!

 

[kiddokiddo]

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[kiddokiddo]

style

 

[helmut.newton]

I hate absolutely everything about this show; which is surprising since I am a big fan of Raf's aesthetic.

The first part of the show was utterly boring. He didn't even bother to 'rework' the Jil Sander classics. He just took those shapes and fabrics right out of the archives.

The second part of the show (where he began to experiment with architecture) looked ridiculous. Those pieces were either too Balenciaga - those cocoon jackets/coats taken straight from Fall 2008 - or they were too gimmicky, and made the models look like they were wearing costumes from a Sci-Fi film intsead of making them look chic and modern.

I love the way he brings architecture into his clothes but this time it didn't work. Last Fall was ten times better even if it was monochromatic and it was ten times more luxurious. This looks poorly executed even though it probably isn't.

 

[Starry]

This collection is amazing! I love that orange dress on Vlada!

 

[elle_gb]

Oh my god I'M DIEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

 

[sqekcx]

I hate absolutely everything about this show; which is surprising since I am a big fan of Raf's aesthetic.

The first part of the show was utterly boring. He didn't even bother to 'rework' the Jil Sander classics. He just took those shapes and fabrics right out of the archives.

The second part of the show (where he began to experiment with architecture) looked ridiculous. Those pieces were either too Balenciaga - those cocoon jackets/coats taken straight from Fall 2008 - or they were too gimmicky, and made the models look like they were wearing costumes from a Sci-Fi film intsead of making them look chic and modern.

I love the way he brings architecture into his clothes but this time it didn't work. Last Fall was ten times better even if it was monochromatic and it was ten times more luxurious. This looks poorly executed even though it probably isn't.

I totally agree with you. The first part is so boring. It's just the same old thing. Same coats, same dresses, same trousers. And the second part just doesn't work. They are weird. They are not eye-catching nor classy. Weird!

 

[a_ven]

I think i like it.

 

[MUXU]

yea, the first part made me think, 'am i looking at the same collection as the pictures on the first couple of pages?'
at first i really like what i saw and excited, though i am still but i thought the fit could be better. but for now it's understandable if the fit is not completely well since a lot of the cuts are quite interesting and different.
i notice some of the coats and dresses had a rather dramatic organic seam on the front. it's not that easy incorporating such organic cuts and ending up with a superb classy fit. i been exploring with organic cuts myself and that's what i find quite difficult.
this second part seemed a rather big leap from last season technically wise, perhaps if raf and the team developed the cuts further for next season, it would be better.

also...it would be good if raf had used the organic cut to the design's advantage since right now this strict, hard-boiled shell like of a garment doesnt translate well. the design could be more free formed and spontaneous and perhaps incorporate some lighter and softer fabric at the same time keeping to an architectural aesthetic.

 

[republicofstyle]

I love the subtlety of it all- that everything is just so. A detail here, a pop of color there... but mostly grounded in neutral tones. To pair the curves and shapes with such a very architectural concept- it's beautiful!

 

[disco54]

i think over all this is a great collection but it lacks thats something which would have made it stunning , the first suits in the show were very boring but the curivlinear dresses and the baggy trouser suits were fresh and beautiful .

 

[Sweet rus]

oh I thinks, it's absolutely amazing! Fantastic collection!

 

[dancorpse]

Exciting shapes! Love!

 

[rip_ian curtis]

I love most of it, but the architectural pieces still look too Armani and 80's to me. I don't like them and they're not Jil Sander enough.