Jil Sander F/W 09.10 Milan

[nyc_art_style]

I like it.
I feel I should love it.

But . . there's something I don't love.
I'm not feeling it that much at all really . . ?
I wonder why?

Same here.

This is not as good as their past seasons. It's a great collection but I've seen better from Jil Sander. I also feel they mastered the sculptural trend better last winter collection.

I like it. Maybe I'll grow to love it.

 

[nyc_art_style]

But it does seem like there was some sort of hesitation to really go for it in terms of the shocks of bright color, the curls that wrap around part of the body. I wish he had taken that just a bit further, added more bold color, done more with those curves. I think that's really what makes this collection different than spring. With that collection he really went for it, pushed it to it's furthest limit. I'm not sure he did that here.

yes! i completely agree as well.

I would have been even happier if Raf had just ditched the sculptural pieces and just stuck to the suits. I actually do love the camel tone suits.

 

[gius]

walked out with the chief of the atelier?

what does that mean... chief... head cutter ?

 

[Spike413]

^ Probably the person who's in charge of the entire atelier.

 

[4n98]

I love cocoon silhouettes.
I love curve collars.
I love Jil Sander.

 

[gius]

^ Probably the person who's in charge of the entire atelier.

oh i see, maybe like manager...

Hey this must be a knit, no?
I don't think it works to join a bias cut to a straight grain cut fabric
or cross grain to another and so on.

catwalking.com

 

[Ronchamp]

Overall I don't think it's as clean as previous seasons. The placement of the curves on a few pieces, this one in particular, is really weird to me. It feels a little... messy? gimmicky? Not the usual words I associate with Jil Sander! Anyways, it's just a few exceptions amongst a sea of gorgeous, gorgeous shapes and proportions! The textured dresses are pure love!

Otherwise, I'm just echoing what has been said on this page... something is keeping me from really loving the collection as a whole. It looks unfinished in some way, not in terms of craftsmanship, but conceptually. Like Spike said, he's not pushing it enough. It doesn't feel assured. Are the strokes of colours supposed to be bright or muted? I can't tell from these pics. Is it making a dramatic statement? Or are the colours supposed to be little elements of surprise? On some pieces we get just a peak, on others it 's an imposing, bold stroke. And sometimes it's just riding in between, which ends up distracting us, well me at least, from the overall look (e.g. most of the black dresses in #59). I guess I need to see more pictures to decide if I'm loving this or not. Can't wait for the detail shots!!

 

[iperlchen]

The shoes!

(Style.it)

 

[iperlchen]

(Style.it)

 

[JordanB]

omg I love it all. I love what he's done with the shapes, he really brings the pieces to life.
The shoes are amazing as well.

 

[kasmslo]

Omg, this collection just absolutely kills me. It is too amazing for words.
Definitely one of the best in Milan so far... or in F/W '09 in general.
I am amazed! Not to forget the SHOES are absolutely heavenly. My dose of shoe p*rn for the day.

 

[lmelanie]

flats?!? love the orange!

 

[dior_couture1245]

I really, really like this collection, but just like Crying Diamonds, there's something that's keeping me from loving it. There are some incredibly gorgeous pieces and ideas here, particularly the two white coats that come about half way through the lineup, one with the curving collar lined in red and the other with the curving seams and built up collar lined in orange. Those are both stunning.

But it does seem like there was some sort of hesitation to really go for it in terms of the shocks of bright color, the curls that wrap around part of the body. I wish he had taken that just a bit further, added more bold color, done more with those curves. I think that's really what makes this collection different than spring. With that collection he really went for it, pushed it to it's furthest limit. I'm not sure he did that here.

I agree...I think I was expecting not to like this collection as much simply because I thought SS 09 was so utterly flawless. I was afraid he wouldn't be able to top it, and I don't think he did.

This is still a good collection...there are some wonderful pieces, some great looks, and some brilliant ideas, but like Spike mentioned, it all feels a bit hesitant.

 

[sqekcx]

I don't know. This is alright. Nothing really ugly or tacky.
However this is supposed to be great! I mean, new shapes, experimental things. But I'm not really turned-on by this. It looks kind of boring. I don't know, probably the fabric, probably the lighting.
And I'm quite irritated by the dress with a color strip on the hip.

 

[awwwwfuq]

some of the pieces are very interesting. it looks really hard to wear though, especially the dresses with exaggerated shapes. i'm not sure how i feel about it.

 

[Zazie]

WOW!! Just stunning!! The curvilinear seams, the spectacular shapes that spiral around the body, these are couture-esque techniques that cannot be duplicated by high street, especially now that couture is reduced to an over-decorated bodice with a giant skirt. It's back to the techniques of Balenciaga (the original, not NG) when he proposed fantastical silhouette and shapes that express sublime feminity in lieu of the beads, sequins and collages of the "petits mains". This is a different type of luxury for our times, not loud, not brash, not obvious, yet you know it's in a different league.

This is so daring, yet subtle.

 

[from: sophia]

The orange dress is beyond stunning I love it and the shoes are to die for raf you never fail

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

Im not in love with this..i thought
last season with the fringe pieces were
amazing..this season is obviously curves and i do like some
of the pieces i think the f/w shows are never as amazing as the s/s for Jil Sander

 

[FogUponLA]

so neatly sophisticated. love the shoes!

 

[kiddokiddo]

My first instinct upon seeing the 1st part of the show " Here we go, Raf is doing 90's minimalism again, safe and uninspiring". However, the second really knocked it out of the park in terms of delivering. Understandbly hard to top last spring masterpiece (my fav of his), this collection delivered in shapes, tailoring without any obvious period references (when everybody else is in an 80's redux moment) and a sense of stability and subtlety. There are some looks are just to die for
And yes, I don't love it as much as Spring but for me, Raf surely delivered