Jil Sander F/W 09.10 Milan

[tricotineacetat]

Some of the evening looks in black and white towards the end remind me of classic Yohji... and those suiting looks at the start... I wonder who's still responding to that style of dressing? The women that are now in their mid fifites/early sixties that helped to establish the brand from the start are unlikely going to buy yet another skirt suit, even if it looks more than ever like archival material. There was a certain raison d'être for these clothes as a wardrobe for working women, gladly times have changed and the dresscode for women allows for a little more options these days than to wear drab, monk-like suit looks with turtlenecks layered underneath.

 

[bittercain]

i see plain repetition in the first part even the different tones and textures can not interpret something new or awesome,and the second part, a sort of strong reference from Yves Saint Laurent's YSL and Roland Mouret,though i do not mean that this collection is not as decent as any previous ones, i love last seasons astoundingly beautiful fringes and those spectacular accessories, and the shoes we can also find Miu Miu F/W 08.09 vibesoh i am 50/50 to this one, but love the picec on Diana F

 

[dumbfairy]

I'm obsessed with the orange number on Vlada! That is really gorgeous!

That dress caught my eye immediatly as well. What a super collection

 

[BerlinRocks]

tbh i love it ....
i'm not really disturb by the opening looks ... i think it's important in this context to re-affirm, re-establish the brand, the basics of the brand etc. and try to get more customers that would be appeal by Jil Sander and want basics ...

but though i love it, love everything ... it leaves me starving .... i want more ...
i think the lines of colours, the expansional 'architecture' of the clothes are very subtle, discreet and chic though strong enough to be loved ...

it's like an orgasm you don't want to end ... but ends too quickly ... especially those works on the expansion of deconstruction with lines of colours ... i think he should have focused on this a lot more !!!

he spends too much time on the opening/basic looks/items ...

 

[allez]

omg, they are toooooo fab!!! thanks for sharing guys! i'm totally overwhelmed!

 

[mariemaud]

I love the idea of showing this (I see flowers that open and I think it's a romantic vision because it can directly suggest lots of feelings...)
translated (hidden?) in the designer's own language made of sobriety and precision...

 

[ArsValance]

I hate absolutely everything about this show; which is surprising since I am a big fan of Raf's aesthetic.

The first part of the show was utterly boring. He didn't even bother to 'rework' the Jil Sander classics. He just took those shapes and fabrics right out of the archives.

The second part of the show (where he began to experiment with architecture) looked ridiculous. Those pieces were either too Balenciaga - those cocoon jackets/coats taken straight from Fall 2008 - or they were too gimmicky, and made the models look like they were wearing costumes from a Sci-Fi film intsead of making them look chic and modern.

I love the way he brings architecture into his clothes but this time it didn't work. Last Fall was ten times better even if it was monochromatic and it was ten times more luxurious. This looks poorly executed even though it probably isn't.

I totally agree with you!
this is a nice collection, but not the best.
too balenciaga is my first impression.i am so disappointed

 

[gius]

jil sander should totally do haute couture

 

[Pastry]

I think Cathy Horyn's review was spot on...she managed to describe EXACTLY my own though process when I was looking at the photos of the collection.
It obviously started with smart pieces, Jil Sander Jil Sander classics. Followed by a touch of his own explorations.

And while the dresses have the most artistic value, the JACKETS are amazing. The sleeves that widen in the middle and narrow at the wrist are masterfully done; They're so good, it seems like they wouldn't work if you cut them in anything but leather.



I always say this, but I can just imagine a designer sketching some of these looks, like a swift curvilinear line...in one swoop.

It's beautiful, every piece is special and cool, as softie said. Street-ready.

 

[Amywilliams]

The jackets are nothing less than brillant...

 

[MUXU]

is this raf's last collection for jil sander? if i read the cathy horyn article correctly, the atelier is really closing...again?
noooooo im actually terribly sad

if the atelier is closing, i definitely see the "boring" classic pieces in the begining in a different light. it make sense

 

[Pastry]

^that WAS a little confusing. Sounds to me like they're just downsizing. I think it'd be bigger news if the whole runway label was discontinued; you know...the press and their love of sensationalism.

 

[imagensfashions]

Perfect Show!!!

Amazing shapes!!!!!!

 

[karina_zb]

Now here's the innovation I've been asking for.

2 thumbs up!-

 

[Kimkhuu]

Last season's delicate fringe was PERFECTION.

This is just so boring.

 

[Lite_Brite]

I love this, every piece feels so comforting to me. the lines are so subtle. the drape is beautiful across the board, especially on the -- what, wool/cashmere felt? I really love the cut of those blazers, especially through the arms; it gives the figures such a painterly quality, if that makes sense. like the cut itself is gestural.

 

[gius]

yea, the first part made me think, 'am i looking at the same collection as the pictures on the first couple of pages?'
at first i really like what i saw and excited, though i am still but i thought the fit could be better. but for now it's understandable if the fit is not completely well since a lot of the cuts are quite interesting and different.
i notice some of the coats and dresses had a rather dramatic organic seam on the front. it's not that easy incorporating such organic cuts and ending up with a superb classy fit. i been exploring with organic cuts myself and that's what i find quite difficult.
,,,,

have you heard of lap basting, muxu?
it's used in preparation for sewing bias-cut seams

 

[dior_couture1245]

After digesting this collection, I have to say I like it less and less. It's not that I actually dislike the clothes...it's more that I find this collection so cold and emotionless.

What I've come to expect from Raf at Sander is pure, precise, almost clinically minimal clothes, but with a lot of emotion behind them. I get none of that emotion from this collection.

 

[Flashbang]

surely an interesting use of fabrics but i agree with kiddokiddo's statement:

And yes, I don't love it as much as Spring but for me, Raf surely delivered

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Raf Simons is a genius !!!! Master of the darts...