Prada F/W 2021.22 Milan

We never know if Fabio can be success or not because he never have the opportunity. He could be the next Alessandro, Daniel Lee or Demna. Bring star designers to big brands not always work, we seen it with Raf for Dior & CK, Riccardo for Burberry and Hedi for Celine. Just because a designer with more exposure to the public doesn't mean they will sell more. Hedi still struggle re-create his YSL success despite all the investment LVMH pour into him.

Raf want to sell, that why he took all these jobs. But the reason why he failed because it's feel like he always designed his clothes from an ivory tower totally detached from the core clients of the brands that he work with. He wanted to modernize everything that he touched but instead of bring sophistication and simplicity he just added too much details and make it complicated and impractical. People buy clothes because they want sophistication and elegant not to look complicated.

At Dior, beside his debut couture almost every offerings didn't work because his ideas of feminity is just too contrived, it's just doesn't work for Dior woman because you can inject your POV into Dior but it's always have to be root in true feminity. At Calvin Klein, again he have to try hard and change the the line from "collection" to "205W39NYC", everybody can remembered CKC, 205 it's pretentious and complicated. And he neglected the clients that buy CKC because the line designed by Calvin Klein himself rooted in sexy American sportswear with a touch of luxurious. His weirdly obsession with Andy Warhol, horror and cliché cowboys it the reason for his downfall. CKC line was never about profit, it's there to create an allure for people to buy cheaper stuff. How can you convince people to buy underwear when all you see it's Warhol, accident and horror, how unsexy is that. And again at Prada, Miuccia sense of humor and quirkiness it's been overshadowed by Raf overcomplicate stuff. Why everything have to have the triangle logos in it. And designing at Prada it's tricky because everything have to look like something Miuccia personal wear it herself, and that why Fabio will works because he understand her taste, he help her create what we know as Prada today.
FABIO!!! WINK TWICE IF YOU NEED HELP AND WE'LL CALL SOMEONE TO RELEASE YOU!!!!
 
PS
forgot to mention another designer he blatantly rips off — Helmut Lang. WTF!??!!?!
 
At what point will the brands realize that Raf is only good to do clothes for 16-28 yr old boys. This Prada outing is way better than what he did at Dior/Jil (made them old fashioned and repressed). Calvin was a car crash from day 1 because he can't design something from scratch unless it was worn by "Kraftwerk" "Joy Division" or he steals exact designs from Margiela, and now Demna Gvalsalia Balanciaga (and then he ruins them hahahah).
I actually think his clothes at Calvin were good...But they weren’t good for CALVIN KLEIN. And I think his work in menswear was his more desirable in a longtime. But it was like he went to Calvin to live his Helmut fantasies.
 
I’m amazed when people say « Oh the Calvin Klein customer is not used to spend that much money on clothes ». The goal was to attract a high fashion customer!
And the aura of his work was supposed to diffuse through the masses for all the lines of CK.

Perhaps it was a mistake for Raf to even accept that position. For one, the goal of attracting a high fashion customer to Calvin Klein is almost impossible and to expect that within a span of 2 years is hilarious. It took half a year to see his RTW vision roll out into the entire mess of a 9+ brand portfolio! Second, there is absolutely no denying that the name "CALVIN KLEIN" in these times can ever be extricated from association with mall-level pricing. Those who bought into Raf's 205 did it despite the name on the tag. This was a problem even for Collection, but it could be ignored because of the small amount of money that went into it. To expect the amount of multi-level output season after season and then only allowing 24 months for fruition is madness - though I would argue that he extended his vision into the rest of the portfolio quite successfully in the time he had. Again, it was delusional for the suits (and for Raf) to think they could accomplish something like Gucci or Balenciaga with a brand name so far removed from high-fashion like Calvin Klein.

Anyway, back to this Prada collection. At the end of the day this has been largely publicized as Raf and Miuccia's joint endeavor. If you take issue with Raf because of bombers on the runway then take also take issue with Miuccia for agreeing with and allowing them. I'm remaining hopeful based on what I've seen and I'm certainly betting that Miuccia will give him more than two years to prove himself.
 
The thing for me is: you could suspect that the Miuccia's Prada woman would have sex at some point in her life whilst this Rafiuccia's woman is most definitely not willing to nor reminiscent and that is quite a shame. But i can see improvements from the debut, and a few coats I wouldn't mind to add to my winter wardrobe...
 

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