Prada's wild, wonderful world
suzy menkes, iht.com
MILAN: 'Fantasy - the only thing for a fast- moving world" was Miuccia Prada's take on this summer 2008 season. And with a strange wall fresco of weird and wonderful nature scribbles - giant flowers opening vaginal petals to swallow upstanding stamens and mythical mermaids tumbling into a tortoise's tummy - Prada opened a show that was eerily beautiful. But it needed Sigmund Freud to unravel the tortured dreams.
Just to reinforce the feel of somnambulist wanderings, the primary silhouette of the collection was pajamas - easy tunics tops and pants, often patterned with the images from the fairy tale. So much in the show was dark in spirit - the shoe heels carved like trees from a child's toy farm; the models's smoky eyes; a palette drawn from the woods, with Prada's usual off-color greens and browns interspersed with a cloying lavender sweetness.
Yet the theme of the show was lightness, as though all these clothes were created from clouds. The airy fabrics turned occasionally into billowing full, calf-length skirts, marked with the checks that also appeared on the hose. That was heavy, while old-fashioned spats had a sensual effect, with pieces of black leather or soft velvet climbing up the ankle.
The wonderland that is Prada is always full of surprises - and this show was no exception. Just when you had digested the light and pretty fairy dresses, out came a gilded ballerina dress to give another twirl of the magic wand that took fashion on its mystery tour. It brought out some of the loveliest summer dresses and interesting footwear that we have yet seen in Milan. But it also left a lot to analyze - by a psychiatrist or by the fashion crowd.