Saint Laurent S/S 2013 Paris

[tricotineacetat]

I've thoroughly enjoyed your comments in this thread, including the ones after this comment but I chose this one to respond to...

I agree, once separated out and the "Rachel Zoe" sensibility removed it indeed smacks of Slimane's touch, which, I love for the new YSL.

As far as tailoring goes, it is exciting to see the craftsmanship go up a notch, the new look of Saint Laurent is also a new approach in RTW, as you mentioned. I do expect however, as seasons pass, he'll start considering how to move on from the traditional jacket, expand on its vocabulary, and offer women the same solutions in a more modern, less fussy, way. And this is when I think we'll see Slimane really shine.

And yes, the Flou is problematic. I guess none of us can be surprised, though you wonder why they don't just hire a talented dress designer to come in and work out the kinks.

I'm pleased to hear your appreciation, just as I enjoyed reading your contributions (among others) in the latest Jil Sander collection thread - If only I had more time to participate in these discussions, I would gladly have contributed in there as well, though I found you all summed it up so nicely that I thought there was no more to add.

Anyhow, back to Saint Laurent; I agree with you that it will be necessary for Slimane to branch out of his comfort zone of familiar technique and silhouettes - A lot of the 'couture' pieces in this collection are also heavily relying on ornamentation and while they are undeniably finished with the exquisite perfection associated with Hedi Slimane's work, you are left hungry for him to expand his technical capabilities, now that he isn't limited to only designing menswear (where a somewhat conservative keeping with traditional codes of garment making is still paramount).

 

[Morphe]

I hear craftmanship, quality, perfection, Helmut Lang mentions (the horror) and all I see from those latest pics is things I find in Topshop every once in a while.
I hope Slimane steps up his game, both in womenswear and menswear because whatever he's doing here might prove to be profitable (to a very specific type of customer no less), but there will be a whole lotta whining going on.

 

[get fashion]

Love you Suzy, with class she said this collection is crap, good!

 

[lemeray]

Lady Gaga wearing Saint Laurent harpersbazaar

 

[lemeray]

justjared

Sorry, not sure if I am allowed to post pictures of 'celebrities' but it's interesting to see how the new collection will be translated on people...

 

[KKnardi]

^ don't like that face together with these clothes. and btw... why is everyone talking about "people" when they see gaga in saint laurent? models are human too.

 

[TianCouture]

It's kind of hysterical seeing someone who take "risks" wardrobe wise wearing these SS'13 looks...she looks rather, uhhh, typical. It's kind of like regressing, no? I mean come on...this legit looks like TopShop, just a lot less interesting. And she went on a big twitter/Hedi appreciation rant for this? wow...

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ I really think that if Dean and Dan started a feud with Cathy, Lady Gaga would be there with bells (and DSquared2) on

 

[TianCouture]

^ I really think that if Dean and Dan started a feud with Cathy, Lady Gaga would be there with bells (and DSquared2) on

Couldn't agree more. She seems to jump on the "I hate Cathy" bandwagon just for the heck of it. Like she has to be so much so about acceptance and love, that she hates Cathy b/c. she critical...could you imagine a world with no critics, let alone fashion critics...how very boring it would be, kind of like this outfit.

 

[balmain1914]

Just a tragedy that YSL PR TEAM chose someone like Gaga to get first celeb exposure. I don't see any thing YSL on this short girl at all. The result was she was wearing like for the Halloween party, with that hideous hat. Nothing haute, nothing desiring.

The whole YSL team is sick, with so many restrictions on using brand names, why didn't they think about how to pick a better branding solution, without being stupid, like picking Gaga-ish.

 

[Zazie]

Haha...the test of the pudding is in the tasting, and Lady Gaga, no doubt experimenting on her getup for Halloween, shows just how dated, frumpy and awkward this collection looks. The famed Slimane sequinn-encrusted luxe jacket looks a bit stupid here, sorry to say. I had high hopes for Slimane at YSL for making the Dior boys look slick and sophisticated, but his efforts at womenswear completely lacks Dior Homme's inspiration. His suits at YSL look shrunken and feeble. Strange how he seems to have succumbed to some silly stereotype of LA "it" girl.

 

[Izreal]

the hate train is still going strong here..will be interesting to so see how many will turn around in a few seasons when the designs mature and the kinks get ironed out.. concerning gaga, i'm far from being a fan of hers but love it or hate it, it's always been a strategy of hedi to give his clothes to pop/rock musicians close to him (he's shot gaga a few times)... and it's a pretty clever way to get free advertising/hype and desire/credibility from his obvious music culture influences..

Monsieur Deneve made it pretty clear that he and Pinault are looking to grow the house of Saint Laurent bigger, aiming at the size of Dior or Chanel - In order to make that work, it will be important that it delivers easily understandable, desirable products for a larger audience than the few elitists that care for their jackets to be fully canvassed in construction or their jeans to be made of selvedge denim - It will need to be somewhat faster, more accessible fashion. All of the upgrade in quality is very commendable and adds to the integrity of the house as a leading french luxury goods player, but the major profits are being turned elsewhere.

Slimane will have to find a difficult balance between keeping his edge up that has for a long time defined the cult around his oeuvre, while at the same time opening to a mainstream clientele that he had so far never reached for with his work at Dior.

this kind of ties up with my above comment, the mainstream might not get the collection yet, but once they start seeing there favorite celebs wearing it, favorite blogs covering it, magazine editorials showcasing items in a different light.. the hype machine will be in full motion and SL will become the (h)it label everyone talks about town... at least that is the plan.. to recreate a DH phenomenon and eclipse the upcoming neighborhood competition: Balmain & Dior by Raf

..i sincerely hope hedi does not cave in to corporate pressures to produce "faster more accessible fashion". we have seen this already at Dior Homme, around 2005 forward, things kind of went downhill, and i hold LVMH responsible for pressuring towards more accessible cost-effective collections which ultimately backfired and caused Hedi to leave. One of the conditions to get him back into fashion was to give him carte blanche at YSL, this of course can also be a double-edged sword, the name change itself causing much turmoil.. but then again even bad press is better then no press and it's still a bit early to judge the fate of this new chapter, although i remain optimistic or at the very least curious as to what's next..

 

[Deleted member 119799]

the hate train is still going strong here..will be interesting to so see how many will turn around in a few seasons when the designs mature and the kinks get ironed out.. concerning gaga, i'm far from being a fan of hers but love it or hate it, it's always been a strategy of hedi to give his clothes to pop/rock musicians close to him (he's shot gaga a few times)... and it's a pretty clever way to get free advertising/hype and desire/credibility from his obvious music culture influences..

this kind of ties up with my above comment, the mainstream might not get the collection yet, but once they start seeing there favorite celebs wearing it, favorite blogs covering it, magazine editorials showcasing items in a different light.. the hype machine will be in full motion and SL will become the (h)it label everyone talks about town... at least that is the plan.. to recreate a DH phenomenon and eclipse the upcoming neighborhood competition: Balmain & Dior by Raf

sure mister, we just don't 'get' it.

i think the problem is that the mainstream -will- easily get it, that's obviously why the buyers are so enthusiastic about this collection, it's very easy to digest and there's nothing offensive about it, save for maybe the leather skirts.

i expect of a house like ysl to challenge people with the products they put out, just like the man himself did.
one of ysl's strongest points were his extremely good ideas.

which is what i really miss in this collection, of course the quality will definitely be there, but i want some good ideas! some wit, smart design and i want to be offended!

the suits will definitely be happy with this because if he continues with this direction hedi will definitely turn the entire brand into a cash cow, but at the cost of what? (it'll just turn the brand into valentino 2.0 with nice, easy to digest and sellable collections that are very predictable and as dull as dish water)

 

[mistress_f]

sure mister, we just don't 'get' it.

i think the problem is that the mainstream -will- easily get it, that's obviously why the buyers are so enthusiastic about this collection, it's very easy to digest and there's nothing offensive about it, save for maybe the leather skirts.

i expect of a house like ysl to challenge people with the products they put out, just like the man himself did.
one of ysl's strongest points were his extremely good ideas.

which is what i really miss in this collection, of course the quality will definitely be there, but i want some good ideas! some wit, smart design and i want to be offended!

the suits will definitely be happy with this because if he continues with this direction hedi will definitely turn the entire brand into a cash cow, but at the cost of what? (it'll just turn the brand into valentino 2.0 with nice, easy to digest and sellable collections that are very predictable and as dull as dish water)

i couldn't have said it better myself.
The mainstream will love it because what's being presented here is safe and already well established in the recent fashion imagery. The comments linking this to zara or topshop arent just 'mocking' or 'hating', it's true: these looks have been presented in an accessible way many many times.

There's nothing new going on here, and it will sell like mad. Which probably means the company will be very happy and he'll probably stay in this comfort zone for the time being (Valentino comes to mind, as you've stated). I'll be very happy to be surprised to see him go in a totally different direction, but we have to wait and see what happens.

 

[Izreal]

sure mister, we just don't 'get' it.

i didn't mean that in a condescending way…it's just the complainers keep saying it's too simple & safe.. i'm sorry but i don't consider Pilati to be on the cutting edge, proof is he's now at Zegna of all labels.. which leads me to think Pilati fans are just angry at the new direction and are out for blood no matter what Hedi might have come up with.. on another note getting back to what tricotine was saying.. the transition for Hedi to womenswear is challenging. men tending to be more conservative in their taste yet perhaps more demanding on construction & authenticity. the female audience seems to be more enthusiastic towards the wow factor & theatrics.. … this all may prove to be a challenge for the minimalistic chromatic androgyn vision hedi is bringing to the table..

 

[TianCouture]

what did you expect: more forgettable logo accessories for the suburban nouveau riche? this is essentially a "basics" line which keeps an emphasis on slim denim and youthful appearances. the perfect uniform for your every day rock star musician / socialite debutante.. true to the original spirit of early YSL before it became a brand for rich housewives..

When the former pret-a-porter become made for rich housewives? Granted some shoes and accessories are certainly enjoyed by the rich housewife, but isn't that the point? Aren't they the customer? I mean, rich housewives will be wearing and purchasing articles from the new YSL, no? So what's the difference? Logo accessories sell and if I'm not mistaken, Pilati did a damn good job at selling them. I don't need a "basics line" from YSL, especially when these basics are readily available elsewhere. What I need is something interesting, something I want to wear. I don't wear to wear this, granted this is a subjective opinion. "Your everyday rock star" look appeals only to so many...

 

[Izreal]

Aren't they the customer? I mean, rich housewives will be wearing and purchasing articles from the new YSL, no?

not anymore...that is part of the reason why the name, logo, atmosphere has radically been changed. even the store interiors are getting a rad new look, and i'm assuming the staff will be rejuvenated as well (last time i went to the flagship store here in paris i was greeted by a 60 year old, i am not discriminating by the way but it just shows who they were catering towards )

"Your everyday rock star" look appeals only to so many...

yes this is the whole point, just like Dior Homme, Balenciaga & Balmain.. very specific clientele with a very specific body type and aesthetic.

 

[TianCouture]

not anymore...that is part of the reason why the name, logo, atmosphere has radically been changed. even the store interiors are getting a rad new look, and i'm assuming the staff will be rejuvenated as well (last time i went to the flagship store here in paris i was greeted by a 60 year old, i am not discriminating by the way but it just shows who they were catering towards )



yes this is the whole point, just like Dior Homme, Balenciaga & Balmain.. very specific clientele with a very specific body type and aesthetic.

It's very silly to think that because of a new "rad" approach to store design and staffing that housewives won't purchase this stuff. If it's expensive they will flock to it, especially in the U.S. The "name, logo and atmosphere" isn't even that great a change, besides, they could care less who Slimane is. They just want the material objects.

And fyi, most stores usually do employ older staff that have worked for the house for ages. From personal insight, they usually deal a great deal with tailoring and alterations and commonly walk the sales floor. Chanel does it, Dior does, everyone does it. At least that's how it is on 57th street...

Dior Homme, Balenciaga and Balmain are mildly interesting. This isn't. And that's what the point of my argument is. Sure you could buy an inspired Balenciaga rip off @ TopShop or Zara, but at least it is "inspired by" and intellectually derivative. This looks, however, like the "basics" sold by clothing chains Zara and TopShop meant to offset those rip-off pieces. Something that a design team might actually have created for the sake of an easy sell...

 

[blackcherrified]

Anyway the brand is trying to cut itself from the past of Stefano Pilati on its youtube site too. Everything is deleted, the Arizona Muse campaign, the runways.

Gah, I am disappointed. That's like cutting off their entire fanbase. I am puzzled at why would any company in the world wants to do that?

 

[Izreal]

It's very silly to think that because of a new "rad" approach to store design and staffing that housewives won't purchase this stuff. If it's expensive they will flock to it, especially in the U.S. The "name, logo and atmosphere" isn't even that great a change, besides, they could care less who Slimane is. They just want the material objects.

I'm not telling you who will buy it, i am merely pointing out who they're intended for..

It's a bit naive to think that the clientele will radically chance based on the re-branding... [...]
This approach might work in hip cities but that's an irrelevant part looking at the big picture. Sure they could impose this new 'thing' but would it work? I doubt it... not everywhere.

This is what Hedi did at Dior, out with tho old in with the new...it worked.. same with..Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga...Christophe Decarnin at Balmain... these three houses did a 180 with style & clientele and managed to pull it off.. of course this transition will be handled more delicately in certain regions but inevitably YSL/SL will lose some/ gain some ... like they say here in France: Le changement c'est maintenant!