Based on what I've been reading, this has already been picked up by Barney's, neimans, saks, bergdorfs and Nordstrom in the US. I have a strong feeling ysl will have a much wider reach with the rtw than they have had in a long time! Even though many here are mourning Pilati, more people will end up wearing Saint Laurent because of the changes Heidi made. Love him or hate him, there hasn't been this much buzz (good or bad) around a collection for many seasons.
Saint Laurent S/S 2013 Paris
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thirdlooks
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I was really disappointed by this collection and it was made worse by Hedi and Saint Laurent overreacting to the critics. Hedi will get my patience but I have to say if the quality and innovation of future collections don't improve this re-branding decision will not bode over well. Knowing the fashion industry though I think once this starts showing up on every celeb its still gonna sell crazy well despite not being too innovative.
disco54
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As much as I find this collection underwhelming, because of its dark boho SoCal vibe , it will be with quite popular with girls because of its mass appeal, I am talking specifically about the gowns and maxis presented. The tailoring and pants, I am sorry to say can easily be put together at your local Forever 21, some leather legging or skinny pant with a blazer,a peep toe heel and throw on a floppy hat and VOILA http://canada.forever21.com/images/en/looks/looks_large/CA20120924-06.jpg
Mr.Slimane forgot two important things a designer has to do 1. EVOLVE 2. A real designer challenges himself by exploring ideas he might not like to begin with. I honestly do not see Hedi lasting 2-3 seasons, he is too rigid in his aesthetic and he is a very egotistical man.
Mr.Slimane forgot two important things a designer has to do 1. EVOLVE 2. A real designer challenges himself by exploring ideas he might not like to begin with. I honestly do not see Hedi lasting 2-3 seasons, he is too rigid in his aesthetic and he is a very egotistical man.
2-3 seasons? woman watch'a talkin' abu'? I think it's more like 5-10 years...
disco54
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Well after looking it over and over I do like a few gowns and maxis BUT everything else just reminded me of asphalt. The website has this melancholic indie rock vibe with 95% of the items in black. I am sure he does have fans of his work, but considering the look he has popularized has been done to death in mainstream fashion a lot of it seemed stale. All I got from the website and visuals was the indie rock kids' version of an uber expensive Abercrombie and Fitch.
blackcherrified
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Has anyone noticed that no accessories blog has written anything on these items after they appear on the website...?
^ i don't know about accessory blogs but all the major fashion blogs i've visited have done extensive features using the web pics. as far as basing judgements on the website offering, let me explain something: luxury houses only put around 1/10th of the actual collection online, usually the safest items in neutral colors.. this is the global internet marketing strategy which is a lot different then boutiques which are usually more edgy but also carry diverse selections depending on the local markets. the best thing here is to stay focused on the runway collection imo & not the webshop / ad campaigns (which there is a separate thread for)
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VogueDisciple93
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The first bag (in post #308) reminds me of a Birkin...
lowfive1715
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Has anyone visited YSL.COM? It's quite dismal being there is nothing of Fall '12. The RTW is quite laughable and audaciously overpriced. Plus the accessories are atrocious. Am I alone in this feeling of incomprehension?
I won't say that I miss Pilati because then I would be outwardly lying. Couldn't Pinault have kept the search going for a little bit longer? How I dream of Ford's return, oh well that's wishful thinking. But seriously, is this where this storied house is headed?
Btw, can someone convince Slimane to leave L.A. and return to Paris.
I won't say that I miss Pilati because then I would be outwardly lying. Couldn't Pinault have kept the search going for a little bit longer? How I dream of Ford's return, oh well that's wishful thinking. But seriously, is this where this storied house is headed?
Btw, can someone convince Slimane to leave L.A. and return to Paris.
tricotineacetat
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Once it's stripped off the busy layering and overt use of accessories as well as all the 'Vintage Americana'-inspired Suede fringing, crochet etc., there is still the razor-sharp, rigorous Slimane-essence to be found.
Yes, this collection is super-strict, black as can be and not exactly cheerful and resort-like as a lot of other label's Spring/Summer offerings, much closer to the erotism of Helmut Newton's 'Filme Noire' Saint Laurent imagery - It also may lack the lightness in construction that may be fundamental for a commercial success on warmer climates such as the Near East, South America etc. - This may prove the biggest problem for the successful selling of Saint Laurent's RTW, besides the rail-thin, androgynous fitting of the clothes (comparisons to Raf Simon's Jil Sander or Helmut Lang are likely).
The construction of the jackets, as with Dior Homme, is completely artisanal, comparable to that found in men's suiting by Brioni or Kiton. Those standards are unseen in women's RTW, definitely NOT comparable to Pilati's work for YSL. This is for a woman that appreciates the structure, strictness and precision of a men's suit, and that commands a certain eye for the savoir-faire. In that sense, Slimane succeeded in giving Saint Laurent back a certain 'way of making' that was normally reserved only for couture.
Yes, this collection is super-strict, black as can be and not exactly cheerful and resort-like as a lot of other label's Spring/Summer offerings, much closer to the erotism of Helmut Newton's 'Filme Noire' Saint Laurent imagery - It also may lack the lightness in construction that may be fundamental for a commercial success on warmer climates such as the Near East, South America etc. - This may prove the biggest problem for the successful selling of Saint Laurent's RTW, besides the rail-thin, androgynous fitting of the clothes (comparisons to Raf Simon's Jil Sander or Helmut Lang are likely).
The construction of the jackets, as with Dior Homme, is completely artisanal, comparable to that found in men's suiting by Brioni or Kiton. Those standards are unseen in women's RTW, definitely NOT comparable to Pilati's work for YSL. This is for a woman that appreciates the structure, strictness and precision of a men's suit, and that commands a certain eye for the savoir-faire. In that sense, Slimane succeeded in giving Saint Laurent back a certain 'way of making' that was normally reserved only for couture.
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^ i completely agree (btw i remember your always insightful comments back in the DH threads 
) i find it quite impressive how Hedi has successfully ported his rigueur and silhouettes not only to YSL but to womenswear. those fit pics just ooze Slimane savoir faire while still being connected to the early Saint Laurent esprit.. 
) i find it quite impressive how Hedi has successfully ported his rigueur and silhouettes not only to YSL but to womenswear. those fit pics just ooze Slimane savoir faire while still being connected to the early Saint Laurent esprit.. tricotineacetat
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All of the 'flou' part in the collection needs a bit further development, I don't think he got it exactly right at this part, most of the efforts to try a more classically 'feminine' hand so far seem like a show-statement only - I am highly doubting that long bias-cut caftan robes and red carpet dresses are key to a lot of women's needs, he will eventually need to come up with a more convincing formula than ruffles and poet sleeves galore or the ultra-spare, overpriced tunic dresses with shoulder pads that the YSL website presently offers - those pieces show his apprentice-status as a dressmaker, naturally so as he has so far never tried his hand on 'proper' womenswear (similar to Raf Simons' earliest attempts at Jil Sander).
don't get me wrong i am not head over heels concerning the collection (no pun intended). but i do appreciate he is bringing a certain standard in construction. even something as basic as denim is now given the [japanese] selvage treatment, which for those that know denim is the absolute authentic most artisan way of constructing a pair of jeans. in a certain way all this is elevating the quality of YSL garments, and like you said possibly of womenswear in general..
thisismyname
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Although from the pictures, the clothes do appear to be well-made, this detail doesn't demonstrate to me any bit of "elevated" construction. J.Crew, for example, has been offering selvage denim for at least 3 years... If this is supposed to be luxury, I need something more than that. Something more than what is already on sale in malls.
And the other Celine Classic/Hermes Constance.
Maybe his RTW collection will sell but what about the accessories? Because it's always been my understanding that the designer houses makes much more money on the latter. Furthermore, it was my belief that YSL bags and accessories still sold very well. Now he's reconstructed or discontinued popular models. From a business POV, it makes zero sense to me.
I understand certain people are discontent and confused with the new direction (to put things mildly) but i'm not sure what you guys were expecting. This is Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, it's him doing his thing, like it or not it's being very consistent with his past aesthetic. Sure they'll lose past customers but will gain new ones, it's not that risky of a move as Hedi has a much bigger following then Pilati, every buyer knows this so don't worry sales should be fine, including accessories..
I don't want to go too far off topic, but selvage denim is undisputedly superior to any regular denim, please do some research. now within selvage denim there are various qualities just like an h&m cashmere sweater won't be the same quality as a triple needle Hermes, still cashmere > polyester … hope you understand the analogy. anyways what makes this luxury is not just the fabric & construction but also the cut & the design. i believe this collection ticks all the right boxes for the most part..
I don't want to go too far off topic, but selvage denim is undisputedly superior to any regular denim, please do some research. now within selvage denim there are various qualities just like an h&m cashmere sweater won't be the same quality as a triple needle Hermes, still cashmere > polyester … hope you understand the analogy. anyways what makes this luxury is not just the fabric & construction but also the cut & the design. i believe this collection ticks all the right boxes for the most part..
^I'm not confused by his direction. I'm confused by PPR's decision to hire him. Yes, like you said new customers will replace those who left. But I thought the point was to increase the customer base? Therefore, they should try to keep some of the old customers for who's to say Hedi's new take will bring on more than they lose?
As for accessories. The new ones look like knocking off from other brands - that's not a good thing regardless of if that's just his aesthetics. The reconstructed ones are even weirder. Like a half job between not trying to offend old customers and yet "updating" them to suit his style. It's OK if people like it - say the updated version of Tod's bags - however if they don't, then it's going to be an issue. And my point is that the old models were selling very, very well. Hence the decision to discontinue and even reconstruct is completely bizarre. Phoebe came in and gave Celine an overhaul but its accessories were selling poorly!
As for accessories. The new ones look like knocking off from other brands - that's not a good thing regardless of if that's just his aesthetics. The reconstructed ones are even weirder. Like a half job between not trying to offend old customers and yet "updating" them to suit his style. It's OK if people like it - say the updated version of Tod's bags - however if they don't, then it's going to be an issue. And my point is that the old models were selling very, very well. Hence the decision to discontinue and even reconstruct is completely bizarre. Phoebe came in and gave Celine an overhaul but its accessories were selling poorly!
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