Making Model Moms
by Annabella AsvikSep 4 2008![]()
Agencies are betting big on developing the next major American models. As insurance, they’re putting time and money into...parents.
Neil Hamil, director of North America at Elite Model Management, thinks he has found the next American supermodel. “She’s 16 years old, 5’11”, blond with blue eyes, and has a fresh, healthy, athletic look,” Hamil says.
Almost as important, she comes with “middle-class parents who are as sweet as apple pie,” he says. “The kind of parents I love.”
Surprisingly, the idea that a runway star would come from the U.S. is somewhat radical. In the early 1990s, American models such as Christy Turlington and Tyra Banks earned millions of dollars a year with their modeling assignments. But over the last decade, as celebrities have taken over magazine covers, cosmetics contracts, and even advertising campaigns, and as waves of foreigners became “of the moment,” few American models have caused sizable industry buzz.
That now appears to be changing. Models.com, a website that ranks models based on their high-profile jobs, lists 10 American women in its top 50 list. Chanel Iman, Karlie Kloss, and Ali Stephens are just a few who are seen as the next superstars. Stephens has appeared in Italian Vogue; Iman on the cover of American Vogue; and Kloss and Stephens opened the last two Calvin Klein shows, for Fall 2008 and Resort 2009—the first Americans to do so in eight years.
“These are all big indicators that good things are coming,” Hamil says. “It’s an important part of the fashion industry giving their thumbs up.”
Management agencies are betting big on the phenomenon, investing in new locations (Hamil found his model at Elite’s new office in Salt Lake City, which has five full-time scouts) and in model development—at least $35,000 on travel and living expenses, test shoots, hairdresser, clothes, nutritionist, trainer, and a runway walking coach, before a prospective model has even gotten a job. To shore up those efforts, they are also putting time and money in parents.
There are parents who misbehave, are jealous of other models, try to sell their daughters at castings, or interfere at shoots—eventually costing jobs and money.
Parents are inextricably linked to the talent and have a huge effect,” says Matthew Hunt, creative director at Ford Models. “If you—or your parent—are not easy to work with, they’ll find someone who’s easier.”
When parents are involved in a positive way, models are more reliable and confident, and less likely to succumb to the vices of the industry, including drugs, alcohol, partying, and eating disorders. “We love having the parents with the model. It gives the girls a sense of comfort and ease, which shows at castings and at shoots,” Hunt says.
Of course, there’s always a flip side, industry insiders say. One mother fed her daughter diet pills that made her delusional. (“We got her off the pills and instead sent her to a nutritionist and a trainer,” says Roman Young, director of new faces at Elite.) A father sabotaged his daughter’s career by insisting she attend a swim competition instead of a shoot for British Vogue. “We understand that there’s more to life than modeling, but you often get just one shot in this industry,” Young says. There are parents who misbehave, are jealous of other models, try to sell their daughters at castings, or interfere at shoots—eventually costing jobs and money.
Elite is now running informal workshops to train the parents of their new stars, answering questions and advising them on what lies ahead. “We want the parents to be fully educated, so they can be good partners when we manage their child’s career,” Hamil says. Parents get two-hour orientations as soon as they arrive for an initial visit to New York, with the approach tailored to their socioeconomic and religious backgrounds. There are follow-up lunches and dinners—and though a group setting might seem like a good idea, it’s something Young avoids. “You can have a conservative family at the same table saying they’d never let their child do a certain kind of job, and a liberal family saying how silly it would be to turn it down.”
This summer, Elite New York will bring 30 American girls to test the waters in New York; IMG Models brings in five or six. This will add up to tens of thousands of dollars invested in mothers and fathers, as a sort of insurance. “We have someone to hold accountable,” Young says.
The agencies are expecting a payoff in better performance. They typically take 20 percent of every paycheck and charge an extra 20 percent on top of the model’s total fee directly to the client. Elite will only keep a model if she earns at least $150,000 her first year, Hamil says. But top models such as Stephens and Iman can make in the range of $750,000 to $2 million a year. In 2007, Gisele Bündchen alone earned $35 million.
Ali Stephens’ mother says she always travels with her 17-year-old daughter to shoots, shows, and castings. “When Ali faces rejection, or if clients complains about her muscular runner’s legs, I’m there to turn her focus on the positive comments she has gotten,” she says.
China Iman, who travels with her daughter, featured as one of the next supermodels on the cover of May 2007 Vogue, is able to act as chaperone because of her flexible schedule as a flight attendant. “I heard Tyra Banks saying she never encountered the ugly side of modeling because her mother was always there, and I never wanted Chanel to be alone either,” says Iman, who always wears black at shoots so she can blend in. “The vices of the fashion industry are all out there, from the club promoters charming the girls to go out and maybe more, to smoking, drinking, and drugs. But when a girl has a parent with her, these people respect you in a different way and leave you to focus on the modeling.”
Here, six supermodels and the parents who influenced them.
I was out to dinner the other night next to a gaggle of 15 year old blonde models. They were chainsmoking and drinking martinis. "No menus, thanks!"
For Some Agencies It's in the Cards [FONT=Times New Roman,Times,Serif]Elaborate fashion show packages can cost thousands of dollars; Part marketing, part ephemera[/FONT]
[FONT=times new roman,times,serif][FONT=times new roman,times,serif]WSJ September 3, 2008[/FONT]
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About three weeks before fashion week starts, the offices of casting directors, stylists and designers are flooded with show packages containing cards of models that agencies want to promote for the bi-annual runway shows. Model cards are meant to provide basic stats on available models for hire: A typical card features photos of a model, his or her measurements and contact information.
In the last few years, the show package has evolved from a simple informational tool to an industry art form. Competition for fashion week bookings has ratcheted up such that the packages, which were once no different from the basic set of cards mailed throughout the year by agencies, have become elaborate, twice-yearly productions, that can cost modeling agencies thousands of dollars. Subtle details such as custom fonts, hand-stamped wax seals and bespoke boxes are crafted into meticulous displays of aesthetic.
For September's show season, Elite Models spent $40,000 on 1,000 21-card packages, which were inspired by a vintage 1970s surf poster. Ford Models's package features a stack of floral-collaged cards with custom-made ribbon font, sitting atop dehydrated moss. Only 250 copies will be printed; each will be hand-addressed and hand-delivered. (Ford declined to reveal its show-package budget.) Women Models invested around $80,000 for 500 silk-covered binders with fold-out cards. By contrast, Elite estimated that ten years ago, it spent $500 for its show packages.
"If you don't make that really strong impression, you really could be setting the girl up to have a bad season," says graphic designer and former modeling agent Mac Folkes, who designed Elite's packages last year.
Show packages can take between two to six months to complete. Yet their lifespan lasts only a few weeks; after the fashion weeks in New York and Europe are over, they are often thrown away. "In many ways, we are crafting the careers of talent in the same way that designers are crafting their looks," Ford CEO John Caplan says.
Before the era of 1990s supermodels such as Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Linda Evangelista, models primarily did either runway work or editorial work. But starting around 2000, models began to be marketed aggressively for both venues. This push propelled agencies to start getting creative to grab the attention of casting directors.
The show package "promotes the image of the agency as a whole," says Neil Hamil, director of Elite North America. "We're really marketing for the shows: something new and different each time. It's always about who's new, who's fresh. This is another reason why this becomes necessary."
Last year, Mr. Hamil hired Mr. Folkes to create Elite's Spring 2008 package. The theme, A Gathering of Swans, was based on a phrase by Truman Capote. Elite commissioned the creation of short poems for each its 24 models to be displayed on their cards. "Double-barreled and // in full bloom, she // lashes out against a // nasty and somewhat demeaning // minimalism enforced over the // past decade," read the ode to model Coco Rocha.
Paul Rowland, president of Supreme Models, has sought to turn his productions into collectibles. Recognizing that the majority of show packages are thrown out as soon as runway shows are over, Mr. Rowland published a bound coffee table book as his show package this season. The book intersperses drawings and images from young artists with pictures of Supreme models shot in nature. (A loose set of model cards is also included so casting agents don't have to rip the book apart.) "Honestly, this is more of a promotion to give image to my agency," Mr. Rowland says.
Supreme's show package budget this year was $50,000. "For me, it's worth it," Mr. Rowland says. "In fashion, image is everything." In addition to the 400 books and model cards that he will send out, Mr. Rowland published an extra 100 copies, which he's hoping to sell to consumers.
Rocket Garage, which represents models and musicians, has taken it a step further this season and has produced a short film as its show package. Shot over three days on the streets of New York, the video aims to provide a glimpse of personality that the cards can't provide. It was uploaded to Rocket Garage's Web site the week before fashion week kicked off. "Fashion is no longer about just the printed page," says managing partner Lance LaBreche. "It's becoming more than that."
But some packages are so creative that they lose their functionality. Agencies have been criticized for sending out cards with models' backs to the camera or that have their hair obscuring their faces. Casting directors also often complain of cards being unwieldy or unreadable. Agencies "forget the purpose of the show package, which is for casting directors to see what these girls look like," says casting director Jennifer Starr. "It frustrates me that this is how they use this."


"They meet photographers, stylists, designers and casting directors while they're out. The fashion industry flocks to certain places and the girls do need to be there. We tell them to take it easy on the partying, though."
If the girls are pushing it too hard, they could be sent home, Boyce said. "They always get a warning, but if they aren't mature enough to handle the lifestyle, we send them back to their parents for a bit."
Mother agencies, another modern-day phenomenon, are a key factor in the rise in controversial agency switches. In the early heyday of major agencies (Ford and Elite solely competed for dominance in the ’70s before upstarts like DNA and IMG came along), New York agents would scout abroad themselves, securing the rights to foreign girls from the beginning. Now, agents in areas of the world where many popular models are born and bred—Eastern Europe, South Africa, Brazil, the United Kingdom and even far-flung middle regions of the U.S.—have wised up and started signing girls at the local level, becoming their “mother agents,” and essentially earning ultimate control over who else a model signs with.
“The problem with mother agents,” says a young agent from a prominent U.S. house, “is that they can basically move girls wherever the f--k they want, and so American agents are at their beck and call.
Hi,
We are new, mom and model. The modeling came as a surprise to us recently and we have decided to pursue it. I have read just about every thread/forum I can find about modeling and still cannot find information about teenage models' education. How do these 15/16 year olds continue their high school education? How do they continue it when they are sent overseas? Do they just drop out of high school? This is extremely important to us. Our mother agency said do it on the computer, but our high school principal said you can't do that and remain enrolled, you must have actual time in the classroom. Help!
